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 Elite Veteran
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Location: Idaho | I posted some time ago about this horse that I bought, He is a 9 year old gelding and was told he was a 2D barrel horse. I bought him in November, and he was about 200 lbs under weight. Since then, he has had his teeth floated, seen the chiropractor, put on a good worming program, got a solid shoeing program, is back to his full weight of 1200 pounds, is sound, strong and healthy. I have also put about 45 days of slow work on him, has softened him up to where he is pretty responsive, and have also put about 30 more days of round penning work on him because he had been cowboyed and needed to build some confidence and trust in people. Granted, he's not where he needs to be.. BUT.. he is in a lot better condition than he was.
Where I am at with him now, I do have him working patterns now.. SLOWLY. And one thing I have noticed, is he likes to throw his head. I have worked him in a snaffle and draw reins.. trying to teach him to get his head down, he did not like it and after a couple days he got really upset because he wouldn't get his head up and would start chomping on the bit, swishing his tail ect. I have tried him to many soft bits and he likes to run through them.. So now, I have switched to a Million dollar long shanked bit with a 3 piece dog bone.. and he listens to it, but when you put him in a show environment.. or if he wants to go.. or if you're working a pattern.. he is REALLY on the muscle and is constantly trying to run through it. My only idea is to put a stronger bit on him, one that he has to listen to, and then get him to soften up that way and then go back down.. but I have no clue what to use.
I have a video of this.. I just need to download it. I will try to do that tomorrow.. He's not a mean horse, I just think he has been getting away with it for quite some time before I got him and now he cant do what he wants. Also when I first got him, it was as if he was used to be "pulled" around rather than moved with the riders body and legs. Now he is a lot more sensitive to leg pressure and seat, and no longer has that "pulled around" persona about him. I have also had a suggestion about his head throwing where I could put him in a round pen and try and teach him on the ground.. because he doesn't like to get his head down because that means he can't get through/get away from the bit. He seems to get upset about it.. and while he doesn't do anything stupid, I don't want to give him a reason to be stupid.
Edited by DashNDustem 2014-04-25 2:45 PM
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Fire Ant Peddler
Posts: 2881
| Personally, I think less is more. I think since you got him feeling good that is exactly how he feels. Make sure that you ride him long enough before you start working on your pattern or running in competition. You may have to lope him for an hour before you start to actually do work. Depends on the horse. I like a German martingale over draw reins and ride at home using it on two horses. One of these I run in the German martingale and the other I run with a tie down. I use very short shank bits on both like a Jr Cowhorse, or Ed Wright. (to run in) | |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 898
Location: Idaho | I feel silly, I never thought of that. I'm so used to riding my other gelding and the horses that need a 20 minute warm up and are ready to roll in the arena lol But the only thought I have of that, I used to work at a cutting ranch down in Texas and we did have horses that needed to be loped for an hour and still performed (according to my boss) poorly in the arena because they still had energy. Yet when I was riding the calmer horses, he would get after me for working them too much because it would "hype them up" and then they wouldn't perform. He was always very focused on keeping the horses "calm" so the horses were ready to work the cows and I wasn't able to practice spinning, or stopping and turning fast, because they would supposively get excited.
So even if I did work him for an hour, would it really help? I have never owned a horse that I had to do that with, so it is a new concept for me. I usually train all of my horses and this is the first horse I have bought that already knows the pattern. Despite having to go back and smooth out a few things (mostly just becoming responsive to leg cues and not expecting to get his mouth ripped out) this is something new to me and I am willing to try and figure it out. I do have a trainer whom I call when I need help but I have been cut on my hours so I cannot afford for her to come out and help until I get back up on my hours. | |
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Married to a Louie Lover
Posts: 3303
| Hocks.
I say this because my boy has been a head flipper and a puller for the past 2.5 years. I had his hocks done Monday and rode him last night for the first time. He did not pull on me once. He would lope down the quarter lines, stop softly, square, and under himself without what had become the habitual head flip, roll back and lope off. He did not buck, that had been consistently in our rides for the past 1.5 months. AND when we trotted the barrels he let me push him past them, typically he will shoulder in (as though he wants to get around them as soon as possible, duh - it hurt! He wanted to get it over with!)
It was a pretty drastic change and I'm hoping as I start to push him again that it holds up. Have his hocks, stifles, and SI joints checked.
I second the German Martingale vs the draw reins - unless you are using a second solid rein with them. Using just the draws gives the horse no true release from them while you still maintain soft contact, they encourage overflexion and front endyness when used in this manner.
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 Expert
Posts: 2097
Location: Deep South | DashNDustem - 2014-04-24 11:01 PM I posted some time ago about this horse that I bought, He is a 9 year old gelding and was told he was a 2D barrel horse. I bought him in November, and he was about 200 lbs under weight. Since then, he has had his teeth floated, seen the chiropractor, put on a good worming program, got a solid shoeing program, is back to his full weight of 1200 pounds, is sound, strong and healthy. I have also put about 45 days of slow work on him, has softened him up to where he is pretty responsive, and have also put about 30 more days of round penning work on him because he had been cowboyed and needed to build some confidence and trust in people. Granted, he's not where he needs to be.. BUT.. he is in a lot better condition than he was. Where I am at with him now, I do have him working patterns now.. SLOWLY. And one thing I have noticed, is he likes to throw his head. I have worked him in a snaffle and draw reins.. trying to teach him to get his head down, he did not like it and after a couple days he got really upset because he wouldn't get his head up and would start chomping on the bit, swishing his tail ect. I have tried him to many soft bits and he likes to run through them.. So now, I have switched to a Million dollar long shanked bit with a 3 piece dog bone.. and he listens to it, but when you put him in a show environment.. or if he wants to go.. or if you're working a pattern.. he is REALLY on the muscle and is constantly trying to run through it. My only idea is to put a stronger bit on him, one that he has to listen to, and then get him to soften up that way and then go back down.. but I have no clue what to use. I have a video of this.. I just need to download it. I will try to do that tomorrow.. He's not a mean horse, I just think he has been getting away with it for quite some time before I got him and now he cant do what he wants. Also when I first got him, it was as if he was used to be "pulled" around rather than moved with the riders body and legs. Now he is a lot more sensitive to leg pressure and seat, and no longer has that "pulled around" persona about him. I have also had a suggestion about his head throwing where I could put him in a round pen and try and teach him on the ground.. because he doesn't like to get his head down because that means he can't get through/get away from the bit. He seems to get upset about it.. and while he doesn't do anything stupid, I don't want to give him a reason to be stupid.
But has he been thoroughly vet checked?
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 898
Location: Idaho | BamaCanChaser - 2014-04-26 7:36 AM
DashNDustem - 2014-04-24 11:01 PM I posted some time ago about this horse that I bought, He is a 9 year old gelding and was told he was a 2D barrel horse. I bought him in November, and he was about 200 lbs under weight. Since then, he has had his teeth floated, seen the chiropractor, put on a good worming program, got a solid shoeing program, is back to his full weight of 1200 pounds, is sound, strong and healthy. I have also put about 45 days of slow work on him, has softened him up to where he is pretty responsive, and have also put about 30 more days of round penning work on him because he had been cowboyed and needed to build some confidence and trust in people. Granted, he's not where he needs to be.. BUT.. he is in a lot better condition than he was. Where I am at with him now, I do have him working patterns now.. SLOWLY. And one thing I have noticed, is he likes to throw his head. I have worked him in a snaffle and draw reins.. trying to teach him to get his head down, he did not like it and after a couple days he got really upset because he wouldn't get his head up and would start chomping on the bit, swishing his tail ect. I have tried him to many soft bits and he likes to run through them.. So now, I have switched to a Million dollar long shanked bit with a 3 piece dog bone.. and he listens to it, but when you put him in a show environment.. or if he wants to go.. or if you're working a pattern.. he is REALLY on the muscle and is constantly trying to run through it. My only idea is to put a stronger bit on him, one that he has to listen to, and then get him to soften up that way and then go back down.. but I have no clue what to use. I have a video of this.. I just need to download it. I will try to do that tomorrow.. He's not a mean horse, I just think he has been getting away with it for quite some time before I got him and now he cant do what he wants. Also when I first got him, it was as if he was used to be "pulled" around rather than moved with the riders body and legs. Now he is a lot more sensitive to leg pressure and seat, and no longer has that "pulled around" persona about him. I have also had a suggestion about his head throwing where I could put him in a round pen and try and teach him on the ground.. because he doesn't like to get his head down because that means he can't get through/get away from the bit. He seems to get upset about it.. and while he doesn't do anything stupid, I don't want to give him a reason to be stupid.
But has he been thoroughly vet checked?
OhMax and Bama,
First, Bama I will answer your question. Unfortunately he has not, all three of my horses had gotten hurt at the same time. My colt had to have an lameness exam and x rays, both this horse and my other gelding had to see the chiro, this horse had to see the chiro and all three had to have their feet done in the same week so I am drained for finances right now. The only reason why I haven't sent him to the vet for a vet check is because he appears to be completely sound. He has a big scar on his right hindquarter, the vet did take a look at it when he got floated but said it looks like it was healing great and wasn't a big deal as it didn't bother him.
I guess when I get the money back together, I can have them take a look at his hocks. I am uploading a video right now, if I can get some opinions on it that would be great because he does refuse the pattern sometimes but I have a lot of opinions about that because of his whole "being pulled around the barrels" thing and I was told he was cowboyed a bit, and he gets EXTREMELY nervous when you put him out in the pen, but once you get off of him and let him think about it then he calms down.. and then he is ready to work. | |
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Married to a Louie Lover
Posts: 3303
| Mine was never lame either so to speak, stiff after 3 days on concrete at Bonus Race, bucking, and blowing out on his left turns. Left hock was worse than right. But never lame in the sense of limping on a leg.
That's the route I would take. Of course you may have other mental issues to work through with him, but physical issues have to be ruled out first. Totally understand the money position. | |
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Expert
Posts: 2097
Location: Deep South | 9 times out 10 the mental issues you're referring to stem from physical ones. It may be true that he was "cowboyed" beforehand. But maybe he was cowboyed on because he was hurting and refusing to work right, but instead of taking the horse to the vet like they should have done they just man handled him. I see this A LOT.
If you don't have the finances to take the horse to a GOOD vet, not just your local guy. (see the thread about Do you see any lameness issues in this video) I highly recommend just giving the horse a break. If you keep trying to work through his issues, even working him off the pattern, you can just make him worse. | |
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  Twin Sister to Queen Boobie
Posts: 13315
Location: East Tennessee but who knows?! | I personally don't like using a martingale or draw reins to teach one not pull or throw their head. My thoughts are that if they're still doing that then they still don't have the basic concept of giving, or that maybe the problem is that my timing is off and I'm not giving back with my hands quick enough. Either way, to me its something that only giving and taking with the reins can fix, not trapping them down with martingales, etc. And I don't think that using a harder bit is the answer either. The goal is to teach them to be light and responsive to whatever it is you put in their mouths----- think of it this way. When you start a colt under saddle thats never ever had a bit in their mouth they pull, they toss their head, etc because they don't know what a bit is all about. Just becaude they do all that doesn't mean we slap a hard bit in their mouth to.break them with because they don't give. Instead, we put an easy snaffle in their mouth and teach them. This is really no different, IMO. I agree too on warm up. Warm up can mean the difference between a fight and a good ride.EDITED TO ADD-- As far as being on the muscle, running through your hands, especially at a show, if he were mine I would go back and work on getting him soft as butter and consistent with that softness. Then you have the tools in place to work on slowing down and not rushing. There's things you can do -- roll backs, stop.back up, changes of direction, etc that can address the rushing. But you have to have a soft face to work with. And I would do it witha snaffle and get him listening in that first before I would consider something harder. Sounds to me like the basics need to be worked on first.
Edited by Fairweather 2014-04-25 1:48 PM
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 898
Location: Idaho | Alright guys, here is the video I just made. Before you see this, please note I do not ride the pants off of him. He gets turned out quite a bit, I vary rarely work him on the pattern. I've had him for six months and these are the only time only's I have done on him in this video, so its not like I am drilling him as I know he has some room to work.
Fairweather, I am definitely a person on slow work and foundation training. But the problem arises that I did try and restart him in a snaffle, I did try to soften him up.. he no longer needs to be "pulled" around the pattern. He is a lot more responsive now than he was then. But if you work him often on softness and with a snaffle, after a few days he starts getting upset, and doesn't want to work anymore which I say is boredom.. or now that I am thinking about it.. Soreness. It does make sense and I have been thinking about it a lot today. What OhMax says.. because when he is working, especially when he is asked to lope.. he does try to buck. It’s not bad, but he does put his head down and does a little hippety-hop and I push him through it and he stops, but he does do it. If I try to get his head down, he gets really fussy and doesn’t want to.. its almost like he wants to, but he doesn’t know or maybe it hurts him? When he got adjusted he was out in a lot of places (Left hip, right shoulder, back, shoulder, neck and was really bad in his poll).
I might just put him on the supplement I have my 17 year old on and see if it makes a difference. It has done wonders for him.. and I did use it on my paint horse who had hock issues too and it helped him a lot. And also for the whole “trapping” the horse.. I have not used the draw reins on him in a good while, because I went back to using a tie down and his bit. My boyfriend wants me to shorten his tie down because he thinks his head is too high.. but he does not ride him, and with this horse I feel that if I tie his head down anymore.. I ‘feel’ like ‘he’ will feel like he is being trapped.. and I don’t want that. Because its almost like, if he can’t get his head up, his whole front end pops up.. and I don’t want to give him a reason to do anything more than that.
But here is the video, it is a bit long because they are time only’s. Please remember these are the ONLY time only's I have done on this horse since I got him (6 months) so its not like I am pushing, I am just experimenting to see what the problem is so I can figure out what is the best route. Critiques and thoughts are welcome. I have thought maybe he was blown up, but a lot of people I have asked says he looks too anxious and just wants to go. The second two video’s I had my boyfriend walk me in and hold him before I started trotting.. just to see if it made a difference in his mind set and he seemed a little bit calmer.
http://youtu.be/z9wtXO_b9H0 | |
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Married to a Louie Lover
Posts: 3303
| What I see...
I watched about half. If I'm not mistaken he comes off the 2nd at least once cross firing; and the. Towards the middle he blows out behind the 3rd. Overall it doesn't look like he wants to set and turn.
Classic soreness.
That being said, I also think when he is feeling good, you may need to just trust him and hang on. I feel like you are a little heavy in your hands, and I don't blame you with the way he's acting, but it is upsetting him and building tension...he may be a horse who needs to be conditioned at home and then just let run. He's patterned, he knows his job, hang on and let him do it. | |
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Expert
Posts: 2097
Location: Deep South | I watched the first 3 minutes. It is definitely pain related.
Refusing to go near the pattern is your first sign. When you loped through he started off on the correct leads then cross-fired on the back sides of the barrel. Even leaving the second he switched back to the left to go to the three, but cross-fired again to turn the barrel. He is sore.
the second time you loped through, he was done trying to work for you and refused to turn the third barrel. This is not poor training, this is him telling you OWW THAT HURTS.
I would stay off him until you had a thorough lameness exam done. | |
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 Member
Posts: 24
| Just saw the video, somehow i missed it 
First, I'd get him vet checked, because a sore horse isn't going to be willing to work. And he didn't seem to want to even go to work on the pattern, so that's a pretty big red flag. Also, his tie down looks a little too tight. He couldn't stretch out even if he wanted to, so you're going to have an uptight, unbalanced, unhappy horse that's more likely to fight you.
If he's vetted, and has his tie down loosened up, and still isn't totally cooperating, try a hackamore.
My gelding was a head thrower from being ripped on in the past, and even after we fixed everything else, he still did it out of habit. A hack instantly fixed that problem and he's been golden ever since!  | |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 898
Location: Idaho | Thank you guys for your input. Honestly I didn't even notice him cross firing I was so focused on his head and my hands.
You are right, I am a little heavy handed with him.. and I HATE being heavy handed. I really hate putting those strong long shanked bits on him because my other horses are so soft, I could run them in a snaffle. But seeing a different perspective, I will lay off of him until I can get a vet to look at him. Like I said I might also start him on my other supplement(Necessity with Glucosamine and MSM) I use on my main gelding (he is 17 years old, navicular, has been run his whole life and was told to retire him 3 years ago.. they also wanted to do navicular versa on him, wedge pads ect.), he is now barefoot and still sound, and he is still running strong and is actually running better than ever. He even plays and bucks when turned out now.. and he never did that before. I try to avoid injections as much as possible unless its absolutely necessary. I will see if it makes a difference.. that stuff is amazing, until I can get him to a vet.
Thanks again!
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 Born not Made
Posts: 2931
Location: North Dakota | BamaCanChaser - 2014-04-25 3:07 PM I watched the first 3 minutes. It is definitely pain related. Refusing to go near the pattern is your first sign. When you loped through he started off on the correct leads then cross-fired on the back sides of the barrel. Even leaving the second he switched back to the left to go to the three, but cross-fired again to turn the barrel. He is sore. the second time you loped through, he was done trying to work for you and refused to turn the third barrel. This is not poor training, this is him telling you OWW THAT HURTS. I would stay off him until you had a thorough lameness exam done.
Ditto 100%.
He's sore. Get him vet checked.
You've got ALOT of headgear on his face right now, with a tie down and that bit. And I never once saw him soften his face to you. Maybe he is different at home, but something else is going on. Or maybe he shouldn't be in a show environment yet. I absolutely would go to something softer on his face and teach him to give to it.
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 898
Location: Idaho | TFbarrelhorses - 2014-04-26 1:19 PM
Just saw the video, somehow i missed it
First, I'd get him vet checked, because a sore horse isn't going to be willing to work. And he didn't seem to want to even go to work on the pattern, so that's a pretty big red flag. Also, his tie down looks a little too tight. He couldn't stretch out even if he wanted to, so you're going to have an uptight, unbalanced, unhappy horse that's more likely to fight you.
If he's vetted, and has his tie down loosened up, and still isn't totally cooperating, try a hackamore.
My gelding was a head thrower from being ripped on in the past, and even after we fixed everything else, he still did it out of habit. A hack instantly fixed that problem and he's been golden ever since!
Hey TF,
There is a reason why that tie down is tight. This horse has run off with me a few times.. and it could be something random, and his head goes sky high and he takes off running and I cant stop him. When he is relaxed, that tie down is actually pretty loose.. but he rides with his head up, he moves with his head up.. which is why his head needs to be taught to put it down. But like the others said.. if he is sore, then it would be hard for him to balance correctly because it would apply more pressure to his hocks and stifles. | |
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Married to a Louie Lover
Posts: 3303
| ^^^that could be resolved by fixing the pain too. My gelding is usually a flat footed walk into the ring kind of guy. The last time we ran before getting his hocks done he absolutely tore into the ring (side gate) and then when we did run the pattern we had zero rate.
He's been much better to ride the past couple days, I hope to run him there again in a couple weeks and see if we have the same issue or not. | |
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 Elite Veteran
Posts: 683
Location: Ohio | DashNDustem - 2014-04-24 4:39 PM TFbarrelhorses - 2014-04-26 1:19 PM Just saw the video, somehow i missed it First, I'd get him vet checked, because a sore horse isn't going to be willing to work. And he didn't seem to want to even go to work on the pattern, so that's a pretty big red flag. Also, his tie down looks a little too tight. He couldn't stretch out even if he wanted to, so you're going to have an uptight, unbalanced, unhappy horse that's more likely to fight you. If he's vetted, and has his tie down loosened up, and still isn't totally cooperating, try a hackamore. My gelding was a head thrower from being ripped on in the past, and even after we fixed everything else, he still did it out of habit. A hack instantly fixed that problem and he's been golden ever since! Hey TF, There is a reason why that tie down is tight. This horse has run off with me a few times.. and it could be something random, and his head goes sky high and he takes off running and I cant stop him. When he is relaxed, that tie down is actually pretty loose.. but he rides with his head up, he moves with his head up.. which is why his head needs to be taught to put it down. But like the others said.. if he is sore, then it would be hard for him to balance correctly because it would apply more pressure to his hocks and stifles.
Once you have his soreness taken care of I would lay off the pattern and get him soft and responsive with flatwork.If he is bolting with you then there are some gaps in his training and they will only become worse on the pattern if you don't fix them. I have an extremly hot gelding but he is also very responisve, too much pattern work will turn him into a basket case though. If your horseis patterened and knows his job, you will only make him miserable by drilling him. I personally have never had good luck with long shanked combo bits on hot horses and your hands may be adding fuel to the fire, especially if he is sore on top of it. After you get him fixed up I would def. be playing with some other bit. JMO!
Edited to add: I just watched you for sale video on him and there is a clip of you bringing him from a canter to a stop near the end, you could really tell he was hurting in that clip.
Edited by GrittyCowgirl 2014-04-25 9:45 PM
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 900
Location: Monticello, AR | | |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 900
Location: Monticello, AR | The supplements won't hurt, but I don't think they do much good. A good vet for injections and monthly adequan. And I agree with the consensus that say it is pain related. I do think he has something going on with his hocks. It can make a HUGE difference in them when you take the pain away, lol. Good luck and hope you can find a way to help him, because he looks like he could be super nice for you!! | |
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 Warmblood with Wings
Posts: 27846
Location: Florida.. | I watched the whole video.. i personally think that first you should not ride him until you get a exam done and xrays.. he appears very sore in his hocks and possibly stifles . I also feel that the tie down should go. I think he panics with it. He appears to be in pain and yet still trys to work for you. one could say he is just "Off" from wanting to run and you not allowing it but I dont see it that way.. he wont even hold his gaits. Im surprised you still worked him...
he isnt soft at all or supple so if you lose the strong headgear and after a lameness exam and it tended to .. I think alot of basic stuff would help him gain his confidence back as far as his way of moving.. relaxed and supple . I dont think by looking at video that working him down at this point will help. and after he is painfree I think you will have a better horse.
you are to heavy handed and in turn he panics and with tie down and long shank makes it worse..
slow down ..step backwards.. basic stuff after he is looked at. right now hes running away from his hind and your hands and headgear.. just my opinion.i like him.. hes a handsome boy and appears to have a good heart. | |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 898
Location: Idaho | Thank you everyone for your input.
With my other gelding, I have done my fair share of research on adequan, cosequin and steroid injections ect. Folic acid is one of the most essential ingredients that can be used because it is the natural lubricant for joint health. I am a big believer in the Necessity with Glucosamine and MSM, it has done wonders for my main gelding.. he is 17 years old, has navicular, has the beginning form of osteoarthritis in his front ankles and he is doing amazing.. and he has had no injections, no rolled toes and wedge pads, is completely balanced and sound and I get him checked every year.
Will it help Ayden (the horse in question) I don’t know. But this supplement does include some of the main ingredients in Cosequin, except for the Chondroitin Sulfate which I can buy separately and add to the mix and that would be cheaper. I am in the process of contacting a vet though about having him looked at, I just can’t afford the injections.. and I have seen injections that only last a month when they say it is supposed to last 6 months. Plus it is extremely painful for them to get it, working cutting horses down in Texas I witnessed that quite a bit. You can get infections at the injection site, I just would prefer a healthier way.. injections would be my last resort.
And also like I said, I am not a fan of having the heavy long shanked bits. It took me like 3-4 months to buy the Million Dollar bit because I didn’t want to do it.. I have never had to have that type of bit on any of my horses, and I hate using it. But I guess I was being blind, thinking it was just a mental issue rather than a physical one so it was my own fault.
Bibliafarm, you are right.. he does panic with it. It does seem like he feels “trapped”, because he can’t get away but at the same time, if he CAN get away, like I stated before his head goes sky high and I can't stop him. But at the same time, if you do have that tie down on him when you stop him and get off of him once he gets done “panicing” he actually takes a moment to think about it, realizes he is okay and nothing bad happened, then he takes a deep breath and starts licking and chewing. Then you get on him and he acts like it never happened. I personally think this horse has been used as a tool the majority of his life and doesn’t know anything else. And I wouldn’t normally ride him in a tie down.. but I would rather choose the tie down over him taking off with me and putting me in danger.
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Warmblood with Wings
Posts: 27846
Location: Florida.. | I think in time and if he gets soreness fixed I think he can be reprogrammed to be supple and soft.. and not run away with you. he looks like he is running from pain issues and your hands and tiedown is there stopping him and its a no win situation for him . Id not run him anymore . it will take time and patience..just my opinion.. I may be wrong to.. I think hes a neat horse.. and you will be fine and least you know something is going on and needs addressed.
Edited by Bibliafarm 2014-04-26 12:58 PM
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Sock Snob
Posts: 3021
| Before you take him to the vet at least 2 weeks take him off all supliments as it could hide some of the soreness issues. | |
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Fire Ant Peddler
Posts: 2881
| Personally, I do not think your tie down is too tight. I have used tie downs on a LOT of horses over a period of 40 years. A good way to check for correct adjustment is to saddle up, bridle up and raise the tie down strap up. It should just touch the throatlatch. I use a tie down on one horse now. The way his neck ties into his neck makes it a little hard for him to really flex at the pole.
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Veteran
Posts: 231
Location: Nashvegas | I agree with everything Biblia said and I will add once he is sound and not sore it will take him a good while to develop all of the muscles needed to carry himself round all the time and use himself correctly, it won't happen in 40 days. He is sweet honest horse from the looks of it just in pain...good luck. | |
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Let's talk bits.. and a few other things..(Video added!)