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Expert
Posts: 1409
 
Location: Oklahoma | My new horse is 6 came off track. He is not spooky. He gives to pressure. He only pulls back when tied because he wants to be with his buddy. He is a thinker. He will try one way if that doesnt work he will stop think about it and try another way. I have tried to make him tired and then tie up for resting place. Not sure if this will work been raining so not able to do this last couple days. I looked up on internet but all that i can find is horses that dont know pressure or spooky this is not him. I did find one thing to try is to do a belly rope first u do in roundpen til he follows u around then tie to a blocker tie and go from there. Well guess what he will give in to belly rope no pull back (this is working in round pen). I have tried all different ways for him to pull back. Nope i didnt tie bc i dont have a blocker tie yet. But if this doesnt work what are some other ideas i can try. I am afaid w the blocker tie he will just keep pulling til he is free. Ive never had to deal w this so at a lost |
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 Expert
Posts: 1718
Location: Southeast Louisiana | I just always use a rope halter when I tie mine up. Otherwise, he will just reposition himself and try again. |
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  Keeper of the King Snake
Posts: 7622
 
Location: Dubach, LA | I had a mare that would set back just to wander off and eat that one blade of grass ten feet away. I tried everything! I repeat: everything! She only respected the belly rope , and that didn't work when tied to the trailer. She was OTT too. |
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Expert
Posts: 1409
Location: Oklahoma | Well i tried the rope halter dont know how he did it but he got smooth out of it and halter knot so tight i cant get undone. Cancan i feel for you! |
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 Regular
Posts: 63
| All I can say is it sucks. I feel as bad for the horse as I do you. And they can injure themselves and others in many ways that are lasting.
Always tie above the eye. Use a rope halter. Try a tie blocker. Best of luck. |
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 Expert
Posts: 1857
| get you a car inner tube and tie it off to the hitching post, tree, what ever it is that your tying him to. Then tie the lead rope to that. He shouldn't be able to break the halter and leads, and the inner tube will give, then pull your horse back into position faster than your own hands can correct and reward. Your horse won't feel the constant resistance of the rope; instead, he'll feel pressure, then release when he moves forward and stops pulling back.
Make sure you attach the inner tube so that there is no hole he can get a leg through. We also make sure all of ours are above their head.
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 Worst.Housekeeper.EVER.
Location: Missouri | I had one (3 y/o) that fought and fought... he was made worse by a trainer who chose not to tie him, just looped his lead rope, so he learned he could walk off whenever he wanted. As soon as he'd feel that he was tied, he would fight like crazy! I've had them set back before, but this dude KNEW he could get loose and would kill himself trying...
So I let him.
Well, within reason! lol! He stayed tied for hours and hours. I carried food and water to him and let him stand all day. I don't have a good enough set-up to leave him at night, but I would if I could! He got better at the post, then I moved to the trailer. One time, he went to set back at the trailer and fell down. He layed there for a second, jumped up and hasn't set back like that since. (he will still jump back if REALLY startled, but he comes forward again without fighting.)
The rules my trainer told me: If you tie, tie so they cannot break and cannot get free. Otherwise, do not tie! (this obviously excludes tie rings, but that's a whole different training method.)
All of that said, my open horse, that I got at 17, sets back occasionally. I never tie him without a hay string attached. I choose not to pick that fight with him and I do not want him to risk injury.
But, my young one, you bet he's gonna learn! lol! |
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Rad Dork
Posts: 5218
Location: Oklahoma | The Blocker has worked wonders for me. I will never be without one. I also find that tying my gelding at the back corner of the trailer is better than just on the side. I think it helps him to be able to look in more directions. I also let him have the freedom to eat grass or put a bag of hay (Hay Pillow really keeps him occupied) in front of him to put him at ease.
Good luck... It's the WORST!
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 Expert
Posts: 2135
Location: Somewhere else | I had a horse that would pull back only when tied to the trailer. Nothing & I mean nothing worked except for a gut rope. He tried it 2 times. Never had a problem with him being tied as long as he had the gut rope on. You could tie him anywhere else & to anything & he would stand just find. |
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 Extreme Veteran
Posts: 507
Location: Texas | My current horse would pull back all the time. He would do it until he broke whatever I had him tied with. Either the halter would break, the lead, the ring in the trailer or even a chain that I used to tie him. I got on the Internet and Googled "halters for horses that pull back." I came across this halter. http://hi-techhalters.com/ I bought it and my horse tried it once. ONCE. He has not set back since. My sister also had a horse who would set back and break her lead. This halter stopped her horse as well. It is a little funny looking but I swear the thing works! I even wrote a testimonial for the man but he apparently didn't use it. LOL! My horse has used this halter about a year and a half now and no more problems! I use my own lead and haven't had problems. I didn't buy theirs. |
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Expert
Posts: 1409
Location: Oklahoma | Thank you so much. I am getting a couple ideas to try :)) |
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Keeper of the King Snake
Posts: 7622
Location: Dubach, LA | Stick a screwdriver into the knot on the rope halter. It will take some muscle but that will loosen the knot so that you can untie it.
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| I think we have all noticed the quality of our horse tack getting worse and worse due to big mfgr's using China and India companies to make them. The material being used is also sub- standard especially the metal parts.
Most rope halters are made out of cheap stretchy cord that will suck up a knot you can't untie or stretch down or off the nose if horse goes into panic mode and can break the horses nose cartilage ..
Solve your training or re-training to tie up a horse with an Aussie tie ring, rope halters, 14 ft leads and 23 ft longe' line made out of high quality materials by Clinton Anderson. Non of his stuff is stretchable and once you get used to using the longer leads you will throw all of your shoddy rope and nylon halters and shorty 8-10' leads away. You might as well buy you a handy stick and string too or you will wish you did.
Learn the difference in sensitizing and de-senitizing your horse by tossing leads or using the stick and string.
Here is a starter list ..
1 regular sized halters
1 14' lead rope
1 23' longe' line.... buy a different color than lead and halter
1 aussie tie ring
1 stick and string
All of this stuff can be used to multitask with.. the 14' lead rope is long enough to also use as a lead and butt rope on training to lead a young horse. You can use the aussie tie ring on your trailer and tie off the very end to an adjacent trailer tie ring so horse can't leave if it should strip the entire lead thru the aussie tie ring.
23' longe line .. use to longe' your horse, it is long enough to help load a horse by running it thru an inside tie ring and walk back to rear of horse to give him a bump to jump in trailer. You can use the 23' lead with the aussie tie ring to teach a horse to remain tied or tie off the very end so you can get to it should horse go nuts .. lol
Buy two of different colors and use them as driving lines... why two colors .. so you can tell the left side from the right side while working your horse same with times you may want a double hook up with your 14' lead .. different colors makes it easy to tell which is which .
Stick and string ... increases your usage of body language, beat the ground for noise, plastic sack sacking, creating a safety zone, backing up a horse and desensitizing a horse from feet to ears .. Using the stick also keeps a horse from fearing the lead rope if he needs some correction to gain his respect ..
if you choose later on to have two sizes of halters ... have each size a different color .. i.e. black for regular size and red for large or yearling size .. again makes it easy to tell them apart ..
I had tried to get tack shops to make me some good quality 15 and 25 ft leads for years to no avail and a college barrel racer that boarded at my barn came lugging some CA stuff in ... she insisted I try her stuff and it did not take long for me to figure out this was the stuff I had been looking for for years ... high quality, wears like iron and has the right "feel" to it.
I found I was already using most of Clinton Anderson's techniques but not in the correct order and not as earnest as he recommends. I have made some changes and it really helps to know your equipment is going to hold up regardless what old horse decides to do.
I have been using my Clinton Anderson tack for over 6 years on colts coming in from pasture, race horses on the muscle and just plain crazy, rank or spoiled horses without any signs of wear or tear.
Stop buying junk tack for a while and try a set of Aussie stuff that will last for years and end up saving money and having a better trained horse.
I always have said you need to act crazier than what your horse does to correct whatever he is doing ... Clinton sez it differently but in this aussie tie demo video you will see him scaring this horse from both sides to make it spook less and less and using the 23' longe' line in the training tape ... it never gets jerked away from Clinton and you can just bring horse back to tie ring and spook some more until he learns the give and release function of the tie ring ..
HAVE FUN ..
https://youtu.be/evul8o7AHyE
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 464
| Someone got all over me once, saying this cruel. IMHO it's not.
Process:
Put a good sturdy rope halter on him
Make sure the halter has a lead rope that attaches
Put a second lead role on that snaps
Tie him up, with both lead ropes
Make sure the one with the snap is tied about 18 inches closer
When he sets back, the snap will break, he will then go flying back at moch one, where the second lead role will snatch his butt back to reality that he better not set back again. |
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 Playing the Waiting Game
Posts: 2304
| I have a tree with a branch that hangs over head. High enough he can walk under but low enough I don't need a ladder to tie my knot. I'll tie mine there for hours and hours and with being tied above them they can't get the leverage to actually PULL loose. It's all habit... Not sure what the saying is on changing a habit but mine worked after 3 weeks. THAT was the only way I tied him when I left him alone. I'd time him to something else if I were just brushing him and not leaving his side. |
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Member
Posts: 45
| I had a horse do this and this product was a life saver "The Clip" make sure the lead line that you use has a smooth finish (not the big bulky ones) Here is the link
they also have an instructional video on how to use it
http://www.smarttieproducts.com/Default.aspx
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 Veteran
Posts: 129
Location: South | FlyingJT - 2015-04-06 10:08 AM
get you a car inner tube and tie it off to the hitching post, tree, what ever it is that your tying him to. Then tie the lead rope to that. He shouldn't be able to break the halter and leads, and the inner tube will give, then pull your horse back into position faster than your own hands can correct and reward. Your horse won't feel the constant resistance of the rope; instead, he'll feel pressure, then release when he moves forward and stops pulling back.
Make sure you attach the inner tube so that there is no hole he can get a leg through. We also make sure all of ours are above their head.
^^^^ This works! |
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Need some ideas on horse pulling back