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 Elite Veteran
Posts: 851
      Location: West Texas | Ok, I am dying to know, what is it with the wide gullet width on the barrel saddles. We've ridden horses pretty extensively and know a fair bit about saddle fit. All of our saddles have 6 1/4" or 6 1/2" gullets. I have never seen a horse that a 7" gullet fit, and you guys are taking about much bigger than that. Part of me thinks, "no wonder they don't fit". Am I missing something?
Edited by Tdove 2015-09-22 9:16 PM
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 Own It and Move On
      Location: The edge of no where | Tdove - 2015-09-22 9:08 PM Ok, I am dying to know, what is it with the wide gullet width on the barrel saddles. We've ridden horses pretty extensively and know a fair bit about saddle fit. All of our saddles have 6 1/4" or 6 1/2" gullets. I have never seen a horse that a 7" gullet fit, and you guys are taking about much bigger than that. Part of me thinks, "no wonder they don't fit". Am I missing something? Nope......it's not about gullet width so much as the angle of the bars. Unless you've in marketing and telling people they need gullets wide enough to fit an elephant.   there's a reason the monster gullets come from one source and you don't see many top trainers in them.
Edited by MS2011 2015-09-22 9:34 PM
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The Advice Guru
Posts: 6419
     
| Crown c philosophy is different, they have their gullets big to allow clearance of the shoulders, as well as they sit their saddles farther back (behind the shoulder)
Also over the years the style of horses has changed, IMO.
I have one horse that her back is like a barrel, the only saddle that fits her is an 11 gullet crown c, and I tried them all and they just sored her up.
I tried the tod sloan b3
Lisa Lockhart extra wide
Charmayne James
Lynn Mackenzie nueva tree
Pozzi wide fit
Also people are more aware of muscle atrophy and are trying to prevent it. If your horse already has the atrophy, you may find their saddle fits, as the saddle has caused the muscle to waste away and conform to the saddle | |
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 Accident Prone
Posts: 22277
          Location: 100 miles from Nowhere, AR | The same horse that I ride in an 8" Martin also can wear a 6.5 in other brands if the angle of the bars is right. Martins are just weird. | |
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 Elite Veteran
Posts: 851
      Location: West Texas | Is it only Martin? I don't know why a barrel horse would be any different than any other horse. As far as backs changing, I would think barrel horses today would have narrower backs due to more TB blood.
I cannot see how moving the saddle back is good. How do they get the front cinch to fit correctly? I want my saddles up forward. If angles are right and re shoulder flare is correct don't see how you can get much better.
One thing I know to be correct is that a good fitting saddle can do so with any pad almost, and shimming by definition means your saddle doesn't fit. Altering padding to fit saddles is not near as good as altering saddle fit. | |
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The Resident Destroyer of Liberal Logic
   Location: PNW | cheryl makofka - 2015-09-22 7:28 PM
Crown c philosophy is different, they have their gullets big to allow clearance of the shoulders, as well as they sit their saddles farther back (behind the shoulder)
Also over the years the style of horses has changed, IMO.
I have one horse that her back is like a barrel, the only saddle that fits her is an 11 gullet crown c, and I tried them all and they just sored her up.
I tried the tod sloan b3
Lisa Lockhart extra wide
Charmayne James
Lynn Mackenzie nueva tree
Pozzi wide fit
Also people are more aware of muscle atrophy and are trying to prevent it. If your horse already has the atrophy, you may find their saddle fits, as the saddle has caused the muscle to waste away and conform to the saddle
Why does it need an obscene gullet for shoulder clearance when it sits BEHIND the shoulder. That doesn't even make sense.
Martin has an outstanding marketing strategist, that's for sure. | |
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Red Bull Agressive
Posts: 5981
         Location: North Dakota | Tdove - 2015-09-22 9:41 PM Is it only Martin? I don't know why a barrel horse would be any different than any other horse. As far as backs changing, I would think barrel horses today would have narrower backs due to more TB blood. I cannot see how moving the saddle back is good. How do they get the front cinch to fit correctly? I want my saddles up forward. If angles are right and re shoulder flare is correct don't see how you can get much better. One thing I know to be correct is that a good fitting saddle can do so with any pad almost, and shimming by definition means your saddle doesn't fit. Altering padding to fit saddles is not near as good as altering saddle fit. With any saddle, western or english, it is has been found that fitting the saddle so the tree sits BEHIND the shoulder blade is optimal because it allows the horse to move more freely and will eliminate pinching (as long as it is correctly fitted). Caldwell's are designed to fit on top of the shoulder but in MOST cases, it is a myth that saddles should be pulled up over the shoulder.
It is also a misconception that Thoroughbreds always have narrow back. Horses of ALL breeds are getting wider. I know a professional saddle fitter that deals mostly with english saddles, but said she has yet to fit a thoroughbred in anything less than a medium/wide tree.
If your saddle fits totally correctly, a 1/2"-3/4" pad is what should be used. If you use a thicker pad, it will alter the fit of the saddle and can make a saddle that fits not fit. The only time thicker pads come in handy is if your saddle is the correct shape but a little too wide.
Martin is the only company to my knowledge with the REALLY wide gullets. Their philosophy is obviously to fit the saddle behind the shoulder and if the horse has some atrophy, filling that spot in with a shim. It doesn't mean the saddle doesn't "fit" it's just giving that muscle the chance to regenerate. The idea is to move up gullet sizes as your horse's back grows. With that method, some horses backs can just grow and grow and that's how the reach those super wide gullets.
Oh, and also as far as keeping saddles back off the shoulder. Most saddles will naturally slide into the correct place. In my horse's case, he has a very forward girth groove so his saddle gets pulled forward if I use a normal cinch. Since buying an anatomic cinch from Total Saddle Fit, it keeps his saddle (Meleta Brown #2 tree) in the right spot, behind his shoulders.
This video explains Martin's theory pretty well.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l4iVhzeegyk
Edited by cavyrunsbarrels 2015-09-23 12:17 AM
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Hungarian Midget Woman
    Location: Midwest | Three 4 Luck - 2015-09-22 9:32 PM The same horse that I ride in an 8" Martin also can wear a 6.5 in other brands if the angle of the bars is right. Martins are just weird.
This is because the gullet size of a Martin is the bare tree measurement
I think the others measure the finished width of the gullet.
I have a Martin 8.5 but I'd guarantee it wouldn't measure that wide with a tape. | |
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 Own It and Move On
      Location: The edge of no where | barrelracr131 - 2015-09-23 5:17 AM Three 4 Luck - 2015-09-22 9:32 PM The same horse that I ride in an 8" Martin also can wear a 6.5 in other brands if the angle of the bars is right. Martins are just weird. This is because the gullet size of a Martin is the bare tree measurement
I think the others measure the finished width of the gullet.
I have a Martin 8.5 but I'd guarantee it wouldn't measure that wide with a tape.
All gullets are measured on a raw tree, you cannot accurately measure them once a saddle is built. It's just a Martin deal to build the super wide gullets. | |
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Hungarian Midget Woman
    Location: Midwest | Eh, idk then
i just know this is the only saddle that doesn't sore him lol
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 Hugs to You
Posts: 7550
     Location: In The Land of Cotton | cheryl makofka - 2015-09-22 10:28 PM Crown c philosophy is different, they have their gullets big to allow clearance of the shoulders, as well as they sit their saddles farther back (behind the shoulder) Also over the years the style of horses has changed, IMO. I have one horse that her back is like a barrel, the only saddle that fits her is an 11 gullet crown c, and I tried them all and they just sored her up. I tried the tod sloan b3 Lisa Lockhart extra wide Charmayne James Lynn Mackenzie nueva tree Pozzi wide fit Also people are more aware of muscle atrophy and are trying to prevent it. If your horse already has the atrophy, you may find their saddle fits, as the saddle has caused the muscle to waste away and conform to the saddle
On the saddle you have with the 11 inch gullett, would you mind taking a tape to it and showing us? I have seen a lot of saddles and am a little older and have never seen one, in a store or otherwise. | |
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The Advice Guru
Posts: 6419
     
| Tdove - 2015-09-22 9:41 PM
Is it only Martin? I don't know why a barrel horse would be any different than any other horse. As far as backs changing, I would think barrel horses today would have narrower backs due to more TB blood.
I cannot see how moving the saddle back is good. How do they get the front cinch to fit correctly? I want my saddles up forward. If angles are right and re shoulder flare is correct don't see how you can get much better.
One thing I know to be correct is that a good fitting saddle can do so with any pad almost, and shimming by definition means your saddle doesn't fit. Altering padding to fit saddles is not near as good as altering saddle fit.
There is also new research being done to prove that a cinch should be set back to allow elbow clearance. I haven't read much on this.
I was taught years ago that the cinch should be atleast one hand with behind the elbow, honestly this is difficult to do with most saddles.
There are also making cinches that have the elbow relief, I am waiting till they come out in shearling to try one.
Martins philosophy believes that the strongest part of the back is farther back, as the shoulders the bones can be manipulated in the shoulder as there is less muscle holding the scapula in place. If you call brain or Tracey at Martin they can explain it better.
The problem I had with shoulder flare saddles, is the angles of the bars were never wide enough.
The Lisa Lockhart extra wide was 120 degrees, my one horse this fit her, but there was too much rock in the tree it still caused pressure points. Martin customizes each saddle, so I could get a saddle that was wide enough and flat enough to not sore up my horse.
The pozzi saddles I believe the widest tree is 90 degrees, they only measure one side so I believe their wide is 45 degrees.
I have a saddle maker as a friend and she says the rule of thumb for many years was full quarterhorse bars was around 93 degrees.
When I measured all my horses backs with a protractor, none of my horses backs were under 100 degrees with the exception to my 2 and 3 yr olds | |
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The Advice Guru
Posts: 6419
     
| 3canstorun - 2015-09-23 7:45 AM
cheryl makofka - 2015-09-22 10:28 PM Crown c philosophy is different, they have their gullets big to allow clearance of the shoulders, as well as they sit their saddles farther back (behind the shoulder) Also over the years the style of horses has changed, IMO. I have one horse that her back is like a barrel, the only saddle that fits her is an 11 gullet crown c, and I tried them all and they just sored her up. I tried the tod sloan b3 Lisa Lockhart extra wide Charmayne James Lynn Mackenzie nueva tree Pozzi wide fit Also people are more aware of muscle atrophy and are trying to prevent it. If your horse already has the atrophy, you may find their saddle fits, as the saddle has caused the muscle to waste away and conform to the saddle
On the saddle you have with the 11 inch gullett, would you mind taking a tape to it and showing us? I have seen a lot of saddles and am a little older and have never seen one, in a store or otherwise.
I can take a picture, but I can't post to the page, if you message me your email, I can send it to you.
Actually anyone who wants to see it I can email it to.
It won't be till later on today | |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 883
       Location: Southern Indiana | cheryl makofka - 2015-09-23 7:49 AM Tdove - 2015-09-22 9:41 PM Is it only Martin? I don't know why a barrel horse would be any different than any other horse. As far as backs changing, I would think barrel horses today would have narrower backs due to more TB blood. I cannot see how moving the saddle back is good. How do they get the front cinch to fit correctly? I want my saddles up forward. If angles are right and re shoulder flare is correct don't see how you can get much better. One thing I know to be correct is that a good fitting saddle can do so with any pad almost, and shimming by definition means your saddle doesn't fit. Altering padding to fit saddles is not near as good as altering saddle fit. There is also new research being done to prove that a cinch should be set back to allow elbow clearance. I haven't read much on this. I was taught years ago that the cinch should be atleast one hand with behind the elbow, honestly this is difficult to do with most saddles. There are also making cinches that have the elbow relief, I am waiting till they come out in shearling to try one. Martins philosophy believes that the strongest part of the back is farther back, as the shoulders the bones can be manipulated in the shoulder as there is less muscle holding the scapula in place. If you call brain or Tracey at Martin they can explain it better. The problem I had with shoulder flare saddles, is the angles of the bars were never wide enough. The Lisa Lockhart extra wide was 120 degrees, my one horse this fit her, but there was too much rock in the tree it still caused pressure points. Martin customizes each saddle, so I could get a saddle that was wide enough and flat enough to not sore up my horse. The pozzi saddles I believe the widest tree is 90 degrees, they only measure one side so I believe their wide is 45 degrees. I have a saddle maker as a friend and she says the rule of thumb for many years was full quarterhorse bars was around 93 degrees. When I measured all my horses backs with a protractor, none of my horses backs were under 100 degrees with the exception to my 2 and 3 yr olds
I ride double js mostly and this is how I have always cinched mine up. I like about a hand width back from the elbow. Growing up my grandpa always told me to "get that saddle off his withers and get the girth back so it's not into their elbow." Over the years I've tried to learn as much as I can about saddle fit and I believe a saddle and girth should sit a little further back.
My my geilding is huge and if I rode with the saddle on his shoulder...it would have to be super wide and super flaired. I've used a standard Pozzi fitted just behind the shoulder blade for 7 years now. It's a little tight, but it's never made him sore. I am going to order a wide soon.
I agree its all in the angle of the bars..and the twist, the rock, and the flair. My cj cactus with a 7" gullet is obviously wider than a standard Pozzi but was super tight on my geilding when the Pozzi isn't, due to the flatter bars. I can see the need for maybe an 8" gullet but I am not sure of going much bigger or on martins whole philosophy of shimming. However, I think it's great that nowadays we have options and are becoming more educated beyond throwing something on their back and just cinching it down. | |
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 Elite Veteran
Posts: 851
      Location: West Texas | Ok, I watched that video and I probably should just keep my mouth shut, but....
1. It looks to me like the philosophy is to get a tree too wide for your horse and then shim it up to attempt to fit it.
2. It looks to me like the saddle fits in the correct spot, front to back (that is where all saddles should fit and a good fitting saddle does), but Martin just chopped off the front of the bars. I don't see where their saddle is anything but traditional, just with wider gullet and less bar up front.
3. That saddle even after the shim was WAY too wide for that horse. Even after the shim and saddle pad was added it fit way to low.
4. When a horse matures the width of the back is pretty much set in stone. That is the measurement side to side. If the back builds mass, then the only thing that would change is the angle. I ride all my saddles with a 6 1/4" tree and it will fit some pretty wide backed horses.
4. This might irritate some, but if Sherry wants to build that muscle up on the back, she should get the horse rounded in the back more and quite trotting it around with its head in the clouds and hollowed out in the back. I respect her tremendously, but riding a horse around like that is what atrophies the back, not the saddle.
I was going into this open minded. But what I have seen so far makes no sense, to me (perhaps I am just wrong, it wouldn't be the first time). It does seem like more and more barrel horses are getting sore backs? I have talked to several custom saddle makers and they tell me the reason they don't make many barrel saddles is that barrel racers don't want to pay what it cost for a custom saddle. That confuses me, because barrel racers spend an incredible amount of money for the best horse and therapy products to keep them healthy. The best money I ever spent on any horse was a hand made, top maker saddle. I would bet if more people did this and fit them traditionally, back soreness would decrease considerably.
Edited by Tdove 2015-09-23 9:11 AM
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 I Want a "MAN"
Posts: 3610
    Location: MD | Tdove - 2015-09-23 9:05 AM Ok, I watched that video and I probably should just keep my mouth shut, but.... 1. It looks to me like the philosophy is to get a tree too wide for your horse and then shim it up to attempt to fit it. 2. It looks to me like the saddle fits in the correct spot, front to back (that is where all saddles should fit and a good fitting saddle does), but Martin just chopped off the front of the bars. I don't see where their saddle is anything but traditional, just with wider gullet and less bar up front. 3. That saddle even after the shim was WAY too wide for that horse. Even after the shim and saddle pad was added it fit way to low. 4. When a horse matures the width of the back is pretty much set in stone. That is the measurement side to side. If the back builds mass, then the only thing that would change is the angle. I ride all my saddles with a 6 1/4" tree and it will fit some pretty wide backed horses. 4. This might irritate some, but if Sherry wants to build that muscle up on the back, she should get the horse rounded in the back more and quite trotting it around with its head in the clouds and hollowed out in the back. I respect her tremendously, but riding a horse around like that is what atrophies the back, not the saddle. I was going into this open minded. But what I have seen so far makes no sense, to me (perhaps I am just wrong, it wouldn't be the first time). It does seem like more and more barrel horses are getting sore backs? I have talked to several custom saddle makers and they tell me the reason they don't make many barrel saddles is that barrel racers don't want to pay what it cost for a custom saddle. That confuses me, because barrel racers spend an incredible amount of money for the best horse and therapy products to keep them healthy. The best money I ever spent on any horse was a hand made, top maker saddle. I would bet if more people did this and fit them traditionally, back soreness would decrease considerably.
What kind of saddle(s) do you use? | |
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Red Bull Agressive
Posts: 5981
         Location: North Dakota | Tdove - 2015-09-23 9:05 AM Ok, I watched that video and I probably should just keep my mouth shut, but.... 1. It looks to me like the philosophy is to get a tree too wide for your horse and then shim it up to attempt to fit it. 2. It looks to me like the saddle fits in the correct spot, front to back (that is where all saddles should fit and a good fitting saddle does), but Martin just chopped off the front of the bars. I don't see where their saddle is anything but traditional, just with wider gullet and less bar up front. 3. That saddle even after the shim was WAY too wide for that horse. Even after the shim and saddle pad was added it fit way to low. 4. When a horse matures the width of the back is pretty much set in stone. That is the measurement side to side. If the back builds mass, then the only thing that would change is the angle. I ride all my saddles with a 6 1/4" tree and it will fit some pretty wide backed horses. 4. This might irritate some, but if Sherry wants to build that muscle up on the back, she should get the horse rounded in the back more and quite trotting it around with its head in the clouds and hollowed out in the back. I respect her tremendously, but riding a horse around like that is what atrophies the back, not the saddle. I was going into this open minded. But what I have seen so far makes no sense, to me (perhaps I am just wrong, it wouldn't be the first time). It does seem like more and more barrel horses are getting sore backs? I have talked to several custom saddle makers and they tell me the reason they don't make many barrel saddles is that barrel racers don't want to pay what it cost for a custom saddle. That confuses me, because barrel racers spend an incredible amount of money for the best horse and therapy products to keep them healthy. The best money I ever spent on any horse was a hand made, top maker saddle. I would bet if more people did this and fit them traditionally, back soreness would decrease considerably.
I wasn't going to say anything, but I don't disagree with you there. | |
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 Veteran
Posts: 287
    
| My dad cowboys for a living and literally would starve to death if he sored very many horses up. He has a couple custom made saddles and you want to know what he uses for pads? A couple of wool pads. No fancy pads or shims or wjatever. He spends days in the saddle and doesn't sore horses. If a saddle fits CORRECTLY it doesn't need shimmed. And I do agree about the fact that a horses back will hollow and teach those muscles to stay that way if their head is up like a giraffe. I think this trend of super extra wide saddles is a fad. Have thought that for awhile, glad someone brought it up. | |
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 Jr. Detective
      Location: Beggs, OK | I know that it wasn't until I made a run in my daughter's saddle a couple of months ago that I realized that I had been riding in a saddle that didn't fit me at all. I've always preferred a bigger seat and exercise my horses in a ranch cutting saddle. My Caldwell was a 14.5" and I loved it..until I made a run in my daughter's 14" Allen Ranch and wasn't struggling to stay up where I needed to be. I've had a Crown C, Caldwell ProMax, Three Forks Merrill, Double J Record Breaker, and random others in the past ten years. Hands down the best fitting, most comfortable saddle is my Allen Ranch that I bought the next day after using Pj's. My Allen Ranch doesn't have a crazy wide gullet or a wide tree and it fits everything I've put it on with a pad change. The pad I ride under it on my big mare is barely 1/2" thick and only weighs 24oz.
The thing that I've noticed about the people that are riding the wide gullet Crown C's is that they stay tipped forward and fight their saddle rather than ride their horse. My Crown C had a 7" gullet and it was just awkward to ride. Barrel saddles aren't typically made in larger sizes...which also creates an issue for a person that actually needs a 16" seat and is wedged into a 14.5". They have no idea how much more comfortable they would be and better able to ride in a cutting saddle that would allow them to move. | |
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 Expert
Posts: 3815
      Location: The best kept secret in TX | I've always wondered this as well... I ride a traditional fit saddle... Never had a problem...
My friend has had four Martins all in different widths this past year becasue they would fit when she got them at the store and after getting them home and riding in them for a few months they would no longer fit or her horses back would sore up. I LOVE Martins saddles...Absolutely swoon over them when I see them in store. They're beautiful and very well made in my opinion... but I think I'll save my money and get a custom made saddle from a local shop instead... I would hate to spend that kind of money on a saddle that wouldn't fit in a few months...
Edited by IRunOnFaith 2015-09-23 9:54 AM
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 Veteran
Posts: 287
    
| rachellyn80 - 2015-09-23 7:50 AM
I know that it wasn't until I made a run in my daughter's saddle a couple of months ago that I realized that I had been riding in a saddle that didn't fit me at all. I've always preferred a bigger seat and exercise my horses in a ranch cutting saddle. My Caldwell was a 14.5" and I loved it..until I made a run in my daughter's 14" Allen Ranch and wasn't struggling to stay up where I needed to be. I've had a Crown C, Caldwell ProMax, Three Forks Merrill, Double J Record Breaker, and random others in the past ten years. Hands down the best fitting, most comfortable saddle is my Allen Ranch that I bought the next day after using Pj's. My Allen Ranch doesn't have a crazy wide gullet or a wide tree and it fits everything I've put it on with a pad change. The pad I ride under it on my big mare is barely 1/2" thick and only weighs 24oz.
The thing that I've noticed about the people that are riding the wide gullet Crown C's is that they stay tipped forward and fight their saddle rather than ride their horse. My Crown C had a 7" gullet and it was just awkward to ride. Barrel saddles aren't typically made in larger sizes...which also creates an issue for a person that actually needs a 16" seat and is wedged into a 14.5". They have no idea how much more comfortable they would be and better able to ride in a cutting saddle that would allow them to move.
YES!!! 100% Agreed! I ride in a true 15.5. Dad gave me one of his ranch saddles cause I didn't like training in barrel saddles cause tey just don't put you in the right spot to ride colts. IMO. I wish I could run barrels in that thing but it's HEAVY, lol. Either way, I agree with your post so much. If you are above a size 9 jeans, you need bigger than a 14.5 seat. My daughter rides in a 15 and she's a very fit 14 year old athlete. And before anyone gets their panties in a wad, I'm a fatty. So there. But think about the actual dynamics of where the saddle sits with an extra super wide saddle and then the tendency of people to ride in too small of a seat. | |
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 Expert
Posts: 3815
      Location: The best kept secret in TX | wickedstepmother - 2015-09-23 9:59 AM rachellyn80 - 2015-09-23 7:50 AM I know that it wasn't until I made a run in my daughter's saddle a couple of months ago that I realized that I had been riding in a saddle that didn't fit me at all. I've always preferred a bigger seat and exercise my horses in a ranch cutting saddle. My Caldwell was a 14.5" and I loved it..until I made a run in my daughter's 14" Allen Ranch and wasn't struggling to stay up where I needed to be. I've had a Crown C, Caldwell ProMax, Three Forks Merrill, Double J Record Breaker, and random others in the past ten years. Hands down the best fitting, most comfortable saddle is my Allen Ranch that I bought the next day after using Pj's. My Allen Ranch doesn't have a crazy wide gullet or a wide tree and it fits everything I've put it on with a pad change. The pad I ride under it on my big mare is barely 1/2" thick and only weighs 24oz.
The thing that I've noticed about the people that are riding the wide gullet Crown C's is that they stay tipped forward and fight their saddle rather than ride their horse. My Crown C had a 7" gullet and it was just awkward to ride. Barrel saddles aren't typically made in larger sizes...which also creates an issue for a person that actually needs a 16" seat and is wedged into a 14.5". They have no idea how much more comfortable they would be and better able to ride in a cutting saddle that would allow them to move. YES!!! 100% Agreed! I ride in a true 15.5. Dad gave me one of his ranch saddles cause I didn't like training in barrel saddles cause tey just don't put you in the right spot to ride colts. IMO. I wish I could run barrels in that thing but it's HEAVY, lol. Either way, I agree with your post so much. If you are above a size 9 jeans, you need bigger than a 14.5 seat. My daughter rides in a 15 and she's a very fit 14 year old athlete. And before anyone gets their panties in a wad, I'm a fatty. So there. But think about the actual dynamics of where the saddle sits with an extra super wide saddle and then the tendency of people to ride in too small of a seat.
LOL You and me both sister!
I also believe people squeeze into smaller seats as well. I have a 14.5" saddle that I used to ride in and can no longer fit into after having my baby 7 weeks ago. I ride in my roping saddle to work my barrel pony in that was handed down to me from my mother. It's a custom made West Brothers Saddle from Center, Tx. It's a seat size 15.5". It fits really well now after the baby LOL plus it fits my barrel horse like a glove. I wish West Brothers Saddlery wasn't so backed up, I'd have one made by them again in a heart beat!
(My barrel saddle will be retired for the girls to ride in. SO said I could get a new custom made saddle since my backside was too big to fit now lol I told him that no longer motivated me to lose weight to squeeze back into my saddle.) | |
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 Experienced Mouse Trapper
Posts: 3106
   Location: North Dakota | I really do worry A LOT about saddle fit for my horses-I've been through 3-4 different saddles in the last 2-3 years, takes me awhile to realize when one fits the horse-but I've tipped several money winning barrels that the saddle doesn't fit ME, so went searching again found a saddle that fit me-or so I thought-flopped around like a large monkey-fit my horse good-found another with the same tree-smaller seat-but still flopped around-had a lower cantle- In the mean time my hubby had a head horse show up with white marks by the wither-OMG! Bad saddle-need to find a new one! Hubby says H$!! no! I like the way that saddle holds me where I need to be! He found CSI pads-we now have 4 of them and a set of shims-however, the shims NEVER get used. I have a saddle that fits me well and puts me where I want to be and he has horses without white marks. I'm one of the few that will put my own security ahead of my horses-besides if I can't ride the horse-what the heck does it matter if he's sore or not?? I must admit the crown c is a nice riding rig I used one for awhile from a friend, however, I always felt like I was tipped too far forward- like I was going over the front. I bought a Mary Walker saddle that I love-so secure and I don't think it fits my horse too bad either-several say-oh its too narrow for my horse-but honestly, I've never had nicer sweat marks on 2 different horses than I do with this saddle. BUT I will always use a CSI pad just to be sure. They are the fad that has really proven to me their worth. | |
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 Elite Veteran
Posts: 851
      Location: West Texas | CE's wrapn3, personally I ride in Harry Jones saddles. They are roping saddles. The trees are Bowden. I have ridden several other custom maker saddles. My wife trains cow horses.
We have quite a few saddles. On the more economical training factory saddle, she uses Jeff Smiths. They are certainly not as high of quality as custom saddles, but for the price they seem to fit and ride really well. I know Jeff makes a lot of barrel saddles and assume they would be similar made and fit, since cutting saddle and barrel saddles are similar.
For semi custom saddles, I think NRS does a good job in their pro series. As far as custom makers, there are a lot of choices. Some are better than others. For a top custom maker saddle, I would expect to pay $3000 plus, depending on options. I know that Nick Pernokas in Stephenville makes one darn nice barrel saddle. If I was going to have a top quality saddle made. That is what I would buy. | |
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 Elite Veteran
Posts: 1037
 
| LMS - 2015-09-23 10:19 AM
I really do worry A LOT about saddle fit for my horses-I've been through 3-4 different saddles in the last 2-3 years, takes me awhile to realize when one fits the horse-but I've tipped several money winning barrels that the saddle doesn't fit ME, so went searching again found a saddle that fit me-or so I thought-flopped around like a large monkey-fit my horse good-found another with the same tree-smaller seat-but still flopped around-had a lower cantle- In the mean time my hubby had a head horse show up with white marks by the wither-OMG! Bad saddle-need to find a new one! Hubby says H$!! no! I like the way that saddle holds me where I need to be! He found CSI pads-we now have 4 of them and a set of shims-however, the shims NEVER get used. I have a saddle that fits me well and puts me where I want to be and he has horses without white marks. I'm one of the few that will put my own security ahead of my horses-besides if I can't ride the horse-what the heck does it matter if he's sore or not?? I must admit the crown c is a nice riding rig I used one for awhile from a friend, however, I always felt like I was tipped too far forward- like I was going over the front. I bought a Mary Walker saddle that I love-so secure and I don't think it fits my horse too bad either-several say-oh its too narrow for my horse-but honestly, I've never had nicer sweat marks on 2 different horses than I do with this saddle. BUT I will always use a CSI pad just to be sure. They are the fad that has really proven to me their worth.
Totally agree with you on the CSI pads, have used them for years on my head horse and can slave him all day long and he has never never ever come up sore. However, I tried my CSI under my new Pozzi standard tree and it was horrible and obviously pinched my horse. he bucked at the trailer as soon as I cinched him up (and he IS NOT a fit thrower). Switched to a 5 star and it fits like a dream. I dont think there is ENOUGH emphasis put on padding correctly.
I will not ride a Martin... 1st of all the gullet size is WAY too confusing and I think it is a marketing strategy to get you to buy multiple saddles.. They also throw me forward and its an uncomfortable ride. Dont like their roping saddles either, but my husband swears by his on the heel side and wont ride anything else so we do own one.
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 Experienced Mouse Trapper
Posts: 3106
   Location: North Dakota | Don't forget CSI has 2 different size liners that might help. Honestly I rope with the thinner liner on my heel horse-but his rope saddle fits him so well, I think I could use a napkin. The head horses all have the thicker liner in their CSI. Sorry to get off track, but wanted to emphasize, that I've tried ALL the types of pads that are on the market. Most have a place but if your saddle doesn't fit perfectly look into a CSI. (wish I sold them after all the rah rah I've given them) | |
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  Whack and Roll
Posts: 6342
      Location: NE Texas | I've typed two different replies to this post, hit submit, and they disappear. What in the world? Anyone else having this problem? | |
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  Sock eating dog owner
Posts: 4553
     Location: Where the pavement ends and the West begins Utah | It isn't the gullet size that is an issue that is to accommodate the size of the horse . The seat is different. Some or flat or have a rise in front like a reiner. Then you have high back or low. You must 3 fingers in front of your for proper fit. I'm tiny a 14 1/2 is my preferred but I can ride a 15 just as well. | |
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  Whack and Roll
Posts: 6342
      Location: NE Texas | Equibrand (Classic Equine/Martin Saddlery) has an advertising/marketing department that is equal to that of other major athletic companies we all recognize by just a slogan or their logo. They do an outstanding job with advertising, endorsements, technical features, etc in getting these products out and showing us why we need them. I have some good friends that work there and respect them as being leaders in our market.....I also work in the western market in manufacturing/marketing. Through the years I have ridden almost every style or brand of saddle out there at one point or another trying to find a true balanced saddle that was both balanced on my horse, and encouraged me to have a balanced seat....meaning when I stand up in my stirrups, my feet don't automatically swing toward my horse's flank. That being said, I don't buy into the wide gullet philosophy, however I can see the importance of different bar spreads, bar flares, etc to accommodate those very wide backed, wide shouldered horses.....they certainly all aren't created equal. What I have seen with the majority of the Crown C's I see people riding is a saddle that is sitting way down hill on a horse, the pommel is much lower than the cantle, even when shimmed. Simple physics and the law of gravity proves that the lowest point of any object will bear the most weight. I prefer for a saddle to sit balanced on a horse's back, and if anything, ride slightly uphill. Kind of like pulling a gooseneck trailer....if the nose of your trailer is lower than the back back of your trailer, it's not going to pull very good, your truck isn’t going to ride very smooth, and it isn’t going to be efficient. Raise the nose of the trailer to where it sits even or nose slightly higher than rear, it’s going to pull better and be more efficient on your truck and for your truck, as the weight is more evenly distributed over the axles rather than all the weight being in the bed of your pickup.
Occasionally I have a customer i'm riding a horse for or a kiddo i'm helping improve their horse and I see both the horse and jockey dumping on the front end and I try to put this in a term they can understand, so I compare the horse to a boat, and the rear of the horse to the motor of the boat. If you're in a boat and the nose of the boat is down and the back is in the air a little bit, you're not going to get much propulsion to go forward. Nor do you pack a bunch of cargo in the front of a boat. If anything you pack it in the back and be sure it's packed evenly on the sides to make the boat travel most efficiently. Same thing IMO with a saddle on a horse. I want a balanced fit that is slightly uphill if anything, like a gooseneck trailer and a boat, to keep my horse's motor in the water and keep me balanced riding him.
The folks at Equibrand are no dummies and they found a niche here to market these wide gullet saddles all the while creating an add-on sale with the shims. I'm not saying there aren't some horses that can't benefit from a bit more room through the shoulder, but I admittedly cringe when I see these saddles on horses at barrel races that the pommel is 3 - 4" below the cantle even with shims.
Edited by Herbie 2015-09-23 11:51 AM
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 Elite Veteran
Posts: 851
      Location: West Texas | Herbie, you and I sure seem to think very similar and you have a way of explaining things, that I think is easily understood. Thanks, and again I agree with what you wrote. A saddle should definitely fit balanced front to back and there is a lot of variation from just gullet width, even down to how a maker builds the saddle.
Here is a picture of one of my Harry Jones roping saddles. It fit this horse like a glove. I am not incredibly knowledgeable about barrel horses, but I see no reason why a barrel saddle should fit any different than a roping or cutting saddle. The same basic principles of saddle fit should apply, universally.
(Mine 1 - Copy.jpg)
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Red Bull Agressive
Posts: 5981
         Location: North Dakota | Herbie - 2015-09-23 11:31 AM Equibrand (Classic Equine/Martin Saddlery) has an advertising/marketing department that is equal to that of other major athletic companies we all recognize by just a slogan or their logo. They do an outstanding job with advertising, endorsements, technical features, etc in getting these products out and showing us why we need them. I have some good friends that work there and respect them as being leaders in our market.....I also work in the western market in manufacturing/marketing. Through the years I have ridden almost every style or brand of saddle out there at one point or another trying to find a true balanced saddle that was both balanced on my horse, and encouraged me to ride balanced in the set. That being said, I don't buy into the wide gullet philosophy, however I can see the importance of different bar spreads, bar flares, etc to accommodate those very wide backed, wide shouldered horses.....they certainly all aren't created equal. What I have seen with the majority of the Crown C's I see people riding is a saddle that is sitting way down hill on a horse, the pommel is much lower than the cantle, even when shimmed. Simple physics and the law of gravity proves that the lowest point of any object will bear the most weight. I prefer for a saddle to sit balanced on a horse's back, and if anything, ride slightly uphill. Kind of like pulling a gooseneck trailer....if the nose of your trailer is lower than the back, it's not going to pull very good, your truck isn’t going to ride very smooth, and it isn’t going to be efficient. Raise the nose of the trailer to where it sits even or nose slightly higher than rear, it’s going to pull better and be more efficient on your truck, as the weight is more evenly distributed over the axles rather than all the weight being in the bed of your pickup.
Occasionally I have a customer i'm riding a horse for or a kiddo i'm helping improve their horse and I see both the horse and jockey dumping on the front end and I try to put this in a term they can understand, so I compare the horse to a boat, and the rear of the horse to the motor of the boat. If you're in a boat and the nose of the boat is down and the back is in the air a little bit, you're not going to get much propulsion to go forward. Nor do you pack a bunch of cargo in the front of a boat. If anything you pack it in the back and be sure it's packed evenly on the sides to make the boat travel most efficiently. Same thing IMO with a saddle on a horse. I want a balanced fit that is slightly uphill if anything, like a gooseneck trailer and a boat, to keep my horse's motor in the water and keep me balanced riding him.
The folks at Equibrand are no dummies and they found a niche here to market these wide gullet saddles all the while creating an add-on sale with the shims. I'm not saying there aren't some horses that can't benefit from a bit more room through the shoulder, but I admittedly cringe when I see these saddles on horses at barrel races that the pommel is 3 - 4" below the cantle even with shims.
That's just bad fitting, no matter what brand. It's the rider's responsibility to understand that the saddle still has to be properly balanced and the right shape for their horse. IMO it's not really THAT hard to figure out if your saddle fits. There's plenty of resources out there. I've learned a lot on my journey and encourage other people to educate themselves and not become too loyal to one brand or one type of saddle. We should all be open minded and try saddles until we find what works for both horse and rider. | |
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 Texas Tenderheart
Posts: 6715
     Location: Red Raiderland | Herbie - 2015-09-23 11:31 AM Equibrand (Classic Equine/Martin Saddlery) has an advertising/marketing department that is equal to that of other major athletic companies we all recognize by just a slogan or their logo. They do an outstanding job with advertising, endorsements, technical features, etc in getting these products out and showing us why we need them. I have some good friends that work there and respect them as being leaders in our market.....I also work in the western market in manufacturing/marketing. Through the years I have ridden almost every style or brand of saddle out there at one point or another trying to find a true balanced saddle that was both balanced on my horse, and encouraged me to have a balanced seat....meaning when I stand up in my stirrups, my feet don't automatically swing toward my horse's flank. That being said, I don't buy into the wide gullet philosophy, however I can see the importance of different bar spreads, bar flares, etc to accommodate those very wide backed, wide shouldered horses.....they certainly all aren't created equal. What I have seen with the majority of the Crown C's I see people riding is a saddle that is sitting way down hill on a horse, the pommel is much lower than the cantle, even when shimmed. Simple physics and the law of gravity proves that the lowest point of any object will bear the most weight. I prefer for a saddle to sit balanced on a horse's back, and if anything, ride slightly uphill. Kind of like pulling a gooseneck trailer....if the nose of your trailer is lower than the back back of your trailer, it's not going to pull very good, your truck isn’t going to ride very smooth, and it isn’t going to be efficient. Raise the nose of the trailer to where it sits even or nose slightly higher than rear, it’s going to pull better and be more efficient on your truck and for your truck, as the weight is more evenly distributed over the axles rather than all the weight being in the bed of your pickup.
Occasionally I have a customer i'm riding a horse for or a kiddo i'm helping improve their horse and I see both the horse and jockey dumping on the front end and I try to put this in a term they can understand, so I compare the horse to a boat, and the rear of the horse to the motor of the boat. If you're in a boat and the nose of the boat is down and the back is in the air a little bit, you're not going to get much propulsion to go forward. Nor do you pack a bunch of cargo in the front of a boat. If anything you pack it in the back and be sure it's packed evenly on the sides to make the boat travel most efficiently. Same thing IMO with a saddle on a horse. I want a balanced fit that is slightly uphill if anything, like a gooseneck trailer and a boat, to keep my horse's motor in the water and keep me balanced riding him.
The folks at Equibrand are no dummies and they found a niche here to market these wide gullet saddles all the while creating an add-on sale with the shims. I'm not saying there aren't some horses that can't benefit from a bit more room through the shoulder, but I admittedly cringe when I see these saddles on horses at barrel races that the pommel is 3 - 4" below the cantle even with shims.
Speak it, girl! | |
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  Whack and Roll
Posts: 6342
      Location: NE Texas | Agreed, cavyrunsbarrels, 100%. Unfortunately I see this at leat 70% of the time with those riding Crown C's. I'm not loyal to any one brand or any one style of saddle. There are several I like that I feel ride balanced. I'm just saying I am fully aware of the power of a good marketing department, advertising, and endorsements. :)
Tdove, totally agree with you. Libby Hurley has had a saddle made for years on a roping saddle tree (Toots Mansfield tree maybe, i'm sorry Libby if i'm wrong there and feel free to correct me), but that saddle just wrapped around a horse. It's one of the few saddles I wish i'd never sold.
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 Elite Veteran
Posts: 1162
    Location: White Mountains of AZ | That what size gullet my Coats is... 6 1/4. It fit my Hank great...when he was 3. Now he's 7 and he's filled out since. He has high withers, not a real broad guy ( racetrack bred ) but the saddle I'm riding him in right now is a 7 1/2" gullet and seems to be working really well right now. If he bulks up or gets any bigger, I'll have to look for a bigger gullet. I know I read an article on why the Crown C comes in such big gullet widths, and it was yes to clear the shoulder, but also the horse widens as they go from withers to butt. They want to make sure there's no pinching in the lower back either as well as the shoulder clearance. | |
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 Accident Prone
Posts: 22277
          Location: 100 miles from Nowhere, AR | This is my 8" crown c on my mare. I also ride her in a Shiloh Jerri Mann with a 6.5" gullet. I like how it fits her and she's comfortable. She will buck if her saddle doesn't fit. She has very flat shoulders, more upright angles on her back, and cinches big.

I can't get a Martin to fit my gelding at all. He's more round with big shoulders.
Edited by Three 4 Luck 2015-09-23 1:18 PM
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 Money Eating Baggage Owner
Posts: 9586
       Location: Phoenix | Tdove - 2015-09-23 9:40 AM Herbie, you and I sure seem to think very similar and you have a way of explaining things, that I think is easily understood. Thanks, and again I agree with what you wrote. A saddle should definitely fit balanced front to back and there is a lot of variation from just gullet width, even down to how a maker builds the saddle. Here is a picture of one of my Harry Jones roping saddles. It fit this horse like a glove. I am not incredibly knowledgeable about barrel horses, but I see no reason why a barrel saddle should fit any different than a roping or cutting saddle. The same basic principles of saddle fit should apply, universally.
Roping saddles fit SO much better than any barrel saddle I've used. We have a Jerry Beagley/Ott, couple Slone's, a Stoney....and they all fit stellar. I have a barrel/roper combo from Tod Slone and it is my absolute favorite. I think the angle of the bars on most calf roping saddle allow for a better fit. | |
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 Money Eating Baggage Owner
Posts: 9586
       Location: Phoenix | PS TDove anytime I see one of your horses i am drooling. Next time I need a horse I'm heading your way!!!!' | |
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Red Bull Agressive
Posts: 5981
         Location: North Dakota | LMS - 2015-09-23 10:33 AM Don't forget CSI has 2 different size liners that might help. Honestly I rope with the thinner liner on my heel horse-but his rope saddle fits him so well, I think I could use a napkin. The head horses all have the thicker liner in their CSI. Sorry to get off track, but wanted to emphasize, that I've tried ALL the types of pads that are on the market. Most have a place but if your saddle doesn't fit perfectly look into a CSI. (wish I sold them after all the rah rah I've given them)
They are awesome pads. For me, it sucked though because my horse fits my horse very well and even with a thin liner, the CSI was just too thick and made my saddle stick up weird. | |
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 Poor Cracker Girl
Posts: 12150
      Location: Feeding mosquitos, FL | hammer_time - 2015-09-23 3:12 PM PS TDove anytime I see one of your horses i am drooling. Next time I need a horse I'm heading your way!!!!'
They are crazy nice broke too. Super super super broke. | |
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 Elite Veteran
Posts: 851
      Location: West Texas | Wow....too kind of both of you. Thanks. | |
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 It's not my fault I'm perfect
Posts: 13739
        Location: Where the long tails flow, ND | I had my mare fit by a Martin Rep at an 8.5, custom ordered my Crown C saddle after I sold EVERYTHING I had previously been using to afford it. Got my saddle, made my first run and my mare stopped dead in her tracks between the 1st and 2nd barrel.....?! Tried it another run, same thing. I called Martin and ended up sending my saddle back convinced there was something wrong with the tree. In the mean time I kept one of my Carl Ammerman's (6 3/4 gullet, which I had ran her in previously) and smoked a 1D run the following weekend.
When I got my Martin back I sold it, way too skeptical for me, my mare has never done anything naughty or weird EVER. Then I began the saddle hunt, I had been using a Cactus Charmayne James until I recently purchased my Tami Semas.
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 I Prefer to Live in Fantasy Land
Posts: 64864
                    Location: In the Hills of Texas | I decided if I ever decide to start to run Elephants I know where to go look for a saddle to fit one. | |
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 Own It and Move On
      Location: The edge of no where | Herbie - 2015-09-23 11:59 AM Agreed, cavyrunsbarrels, 100%. Unfortunately I see this at leat 70% of the time with those riding Crown C's. I'm not loyal to any one brand or any one style of saddle. There are several I like that I feel ride balanced. I'm just saying I am fully aware of the power of a good marketing department, advertising, and endorsements. :)
Tdove, totally agree with you. Libby Hurley has had a saddle made for years on a roping saddle tree (Toots Mansfield tree maybe, i'm sorry Libby if i'm wrong there and feel free to correct me), but that saddle just wrapped around a horse. It's one of the few saddles I wish i'd never sold.
That was one of the BEST explanations I've yet to see about saddle fit.
It's kinda funny to look at what a marketing campaign has done to people's beliefs about saddle fit. You have to strip away the fluff and the glitter from it. Just because a youtube video says it, doesn't make it true. Pretty sure the adjustable rigging is patented and the axis tree is as well......so then you pump up your marketing targets about WHY those are the best things ever (because you're the only supplier with them). | |
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 Own It and Move On
      Location: The edge of no where | SmokinGirlie - 2015-09-23 2:56 PM I had my mare fit by a Martin Rep at an 8.5, custom ordered my Crown C saddle after I sold EVERYTHING I had previously been using to afford it. Got my saddle, made my first run and my mare stopped dead in her tracks between the 1st and 2nd barrel.....?! Tried it another run, same thing. I called Martin and ended up sending my saddle back convinced there was something wrong with the tree. In the mean time I kept one of my Carl Ammerman's (6 3/4 gullet, which I had ran her in previously) and smoked a 1D run the following weekend.
When I got my Martin back I sold it, way too skeptical for me, my mare has never done anything naughty or weird EVER. Then I began the saddle hunt, I had been using a Cactus Charmayne James until I recently purchased my Tami Semas.

How do you like the TAmi Semas? I love my current saddle, but that's kinda on my wish list of things I'd like in my tackroom. | |
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 Cinnamon Honey One
Posts: 6549
    Location: between here and there | Good read ladies! The only things I would add is, just like jeans, you gotta try them on first. We aren't all made alike either. I do see a difference in backs on our horses. Sure some haven't changed but I do see some changes that made me start working on new tree designs lately. I do think there have been alot of saddle fit changes made as well. Some should be tossed out the door with the wash and some have made others start diving in on changes without knowing about the horses and how they move - at all. Sad but true.
I personally started this journey when I had my retail store and mail order business and many customers are what made me get interested in saddle fit. Generally, we rode in whatever we had. Be it a trail or work saddle. If our horse objected to being ridden, it was because "he figured it out" or we changed bits or sometimes forced them into behaving to do whatever we wanted done. 20 yrs of working in this field, I know I'm still learning. I do know I was one of the first on the block to do changes and demand changes be made. I'm glad I did, but there sure has been an influx of problems.
On horses gullet sizes, my take is, most all horses are built like a triangle on the shoulders, meaning they get wider the farther down the shoulder goes. /\ Not that drastic but you get the idea. When you widen the gullet, it will lay further down on the shoulder. Shimming it will hold it up to some degree. Not all horses are built in a wedge shape from front to back - narrower on the wither to wider on the loin. The loin is the weakest point of the back and not to have a great deal of weight that far back from an ill fitting saddle or a large rider that rides their cantle. Widening the gullet, will lay it down further on the shoulders. Ok, you set it behind the shoulders. What happens then is the shoulder needs to slide under that tree - not into it. So, it needs to be flared enough to allow that. Shoulders will slide anywhere from 3" to 6" depending on the lay of the shoulder angle. Have I lost you yet??? lol | |
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  Damn Yankee
Posts: 12390
         Location: Somewhere between raising hell and Amazing Grace | wimpyb - 2015-09-23 7:48 PM Good read ladies! The only things I would add is, just like jeans, you gotta try them on first. We aren't all made alike either. I do see a difference in backs on our horses. Sure some haven't changed but I do see some changes that made me start working on new tree designs lately. I do think there have been alot of saddle fit changes made as well. Some should be tossed out the door with the wash and some have made others start diving in on changes without knowing about the horses and how they move - at all. Sad but true. I personally started this journey when I had my retail store and mail order business and many customers are what made me get interested in saddle fit. Generally, we rode in whatever we had. Be it a trail or work saddle. If our horse objected to being ridden, it was because "he figured it out" or we changed bits or sometimes forced them into behaving to do whatever we wanted done. 20 yrs of working in this field, I know I'm still learning. I do know I was one of the first on the block to do changes and demand changes be made. I'm glad I did, but there sure has been an influx of problems. On horses gullet sizes, my take is, most all horses are built like a triangle on the shoulders, meaning they get wider the farther down the shoulder goes. /\ Not that drastic but you get the idea. When you widen the gullet, it will lay further down on the shoulder. Shimming it will hold it up to some degree. Not all horses are built in a wedge shape from front to back - narrower on the wither to wider on the loin. The loin is the weakest point of the back and not to have a great deal of weight that far back from an ill fitting saddle or a large rider that rides their cantle. Widening the gullet, will lay it down further on the shoulders. Ok, you set it behind the shoulders. What happens then is the shoulder needs to slide under that tree - not into it. So, it needs to be flared enough to allow that. Shoulders will slide anywhere from 3" to 6" depending on the lay of the shoulder angle. Have I lost you yet??? lol
You haven't lost me one bit. This always always makes me cringe. People think a saddle first their horse because it sits behind the shoulders well and fits the spot it sits, but when you watch a horse move, it looks painful. A lot of people I think don't realize the full range of motion of a horses shoulder.
By the way, I had a gal contact me today about the saddle of yours that I just bought, but I decided I am keeping it even if I don't end up needing it :) It's too nice to have not keep. | |
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 Expert
Posts: 1482
        Location: on my horse | wimpyb - 2015-09-23 5:48 PM
Good read ladies! The only things I would add is, just like jeans, you gotta try them on first. We aren't all made alike either. I do see a difference in backs on our horses. Sure some haven't changed but I do see some changes that made me start working on new tree designs lately. I do think there have been alot of saddle fit changes made as well. Some should be tossed out the door with the wash and some have made others start diving in on changes without knowing about the horses and how they move - at all. Sad but true.
I personally started this journey when I had my retail store and mail order business and many customers are what made me get interested in saddle fit. Generally, we rode in whatever we had. Be it a trail or work saddle. If our horse objected to being ridden, it was because "he figured it out" or we changed bits or sometimes forced them into behaving to do whatever we wanted done. 20 yrs of working in this field, I know I'm still learning. I do know I was one of the first on the block to do changes and demand changes be made. I'm glad I did, but there sure has been an influx of problems.
On horses gullet sizes, my take is, most all horses are built like a triangle on the shoulders, meaning they get wider the farther down the shoulder goes. /\ Not that drastic but you get the idea. When you widen the gullet, it will lay further down on the shoulder. Shimming it will hold it up to some degree. Not all horses are built in a wedge shape from front to back - narrower on the wither to wider on the loin. The loin is the weakest point of the back and not to have a great deal of weight that far back from an ill fitting saddle or a large rider that rides their cantle. Widening the gullet, will lay it down further on the shoulders. Ok, you set it behind the shoulders. What happens then is the shoulder needs to slide under that tree - not into it. So, it needs to be flared enough to allow that. Shoulders will slide anywhere from 3" to 6" depending on the lay of the shoulder angle. Have I lost you yet??? lol
so quick question about saddle rock, when you can rock the saddle a bit (Front to back) on your horses back is that necessarily all that bad? That's the one burning saddle question I've had and it seems like in relation to larger tree sizes you don't see that as much but I think its because everything is just so dumped down on the horse? | |
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 I Don't Brag
Posts: 6960
        
| Well I have a buckskin elephant that I am trying to fit. It's not sweat marks I worry about but not being able to tighten the saddle enough for the saddle NOT to roll when I mount.....or turn a barrel at speed.
I used to say that she is flat backed and mutton withered, but then I REALLY looked at her and she HAS a decent wither, but it is buried in muscle. To further complicate the issue she is short backed so there is no room to set a saddle back. I swear, if I took a protractor to her back I would get a reverse angle flare. I have tried a halflinger and a draft horse tree and neither was flat enough through the bars. Only the bottom third of the bar was actually making contact with her back. I tried one of Meleta's saddles on her and it rolls, just like every other saddle I have tried so far. I also tried a Caldwell (one of the wider trees) and it hurt me just to walk around in and nearly crippled me when I tried to lope through a pattern....and it rolled.
Since she is not finished, I cannot justify a custom made saddle for her, and the one saddle I had made to order on a specific tree I sold, because it was uncomfortable and impossible for me to ride effectively in. I did think that hubby's Billy Cook rope saddle fits her much better. I SO wish I still had one of the fly weight BC cutting saddles I rode in for years! But cannot ride the BC barrel saddles I have tried.
So FQHB don't work, what then are my options? I've been looking for a Lisa Lockhart to try next (this mare looks like she could be Louie's sister....maybe even his big sister, lol). The flex aspect of it makes me doubtful as my Circle Y Special EFFX is a rolling piece of crap on her too. The 8" gullet I ride her in now seems OK but the flare does not.
Grrrrr!
As for seat size I am not small but can ride comfortably in a 14" seat....until I run barrels. I need a 15" to be able to use the saddle horn effectively, I found that I pull myself down in a 14 instead of locking myself in. I also cannot stand a high cantle (low back issues) and HATE a deep seat, I want a flat seat where I can get over my legs instead of riding behind them. In an English saddle your seat size is determined by the length of your thigh NOT the size of your butt and I have to think that a western saddle is not so different. | |
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 Expert
Posts: 4121
   Location: SE Louisiana | Simple...
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 Elite Veteran
Posts: 851
      Location: West Texas | redmansmyman11 - 2015-09-24 12:23 AM
wimpyb - 2015-09-23 5:48 PM
Good read ladies! The only things I would add is, just like jeans, you gotta try them on first. We aren't all made alike either. I do see a difference in backs on our horses. Sure some haven't changed but I do see some changes that made me start working on new tree designs lately. I do think there have been alot of saddle fit changes made as well. Some should be tossed out the door with the wash and some have made others start diving in on changes without knowing about the horses and how they move - at all. Sad but true.
I personally started this journey when I had my retail store and mail order business and many customers are what made me get interested in saddle fit. Generally, we rode in whatever we had. Be it a trail or work saddle. If our horse objected to being ridden, it was because "he figured it out" or we changed bits or sometimes forced them into behaving to do whatever we wanted done. 20 yrs of working in this field, I know I'm still learning. I do know I was one of the first on the block to do changes and demand changes be made. I'm glad I did, but there sure has been an influx of problems.
On horses gullet sizes, my take is, most all horses are built like a triangle on the shoulders, meaning they get wider the farther down the shoulder goes. /\ Not that drastic but you get the idea. When you widen the gullet, it will lay further down on the shoulder. Shimming it will hold it up to some degree. Not all horses are built in a wedge shape from front to back - narrower on the wither to wider on the loin. The loin is the weakest point of the back and not to have a great deal of weight that far back from an ill fitting saddle or a large rider that rides their cantle. Widening the gullet, will lay it down further on the shoulders. Ok, you set it behind the shoulders. What happens then is the shoulder needs to slide under that tree - not into it. So, it needs to be flared enough to allow that. Shoulders will slide anywhere from 3" to 6" depending on the lay of the shoulder angle. Have I lost you yet??? lol
so quick question about saddle rock, when you can rock the saddle a bit (Front to back ) on your horses back is that necessarily all that bad? That's the one burning saddle question I've had and it seems like in relation to larger tree sizes you don't see that as much but I think its because everything is just so dumped down on the horse?
Saddle rock is bad and means the saddle does not fit. Here is s way I would look at it. If your barrel saddle fit like it does, pretend that it is built stout enough to rope in. If you went out and tied down 6 hard running calves, what level of comfort would your horse have. In my opinion, that would be my litmus test. A saddle that rocked would definitely sore one. Also, a saddle that fit off the front of the back, that was shimmed (basically Sherry's saddle in the video), would probably get you bucked off.
I realize barrel saddles don't take a jerk and do not have the same exact function of a roping saddle. But my thoughts are, if it doesn't fit, it doesn't fit. One other thing to note. Dry marks do not always mean the saddle fits poorly. Of course a perfect fitting saddle doesn't have them, but just because you have dry marks , it doesn't mean your saddle is hurting soring one up. This topic is of much debate among experts, size of marks, ok or bad, how to fix, etc. | |
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 Elite Veteran
Posts: 851
      Location: West Texas | One other thing, any honest saddle maker will tell you that it is difficult to tell how well a finished saddle fits a horse by looking. You really have to have the raw tree. Then you don't want it to fit like a glove, because it needs a certain amount of room for the leather and saddle pad. Just like boots, they fit your feet with socks, not barefoot. | |
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 Elite Veteran
Posts: 851
      Location: West Texas | rodeoveteran - 2015-09-24 1:42 AM
Well I have a buckskin elephant that I am trying to fit. It's not sweat marks I worry about but not being able to tighten the saddle enough for the saddle NOT to roll when I mount.....or turn a barrel at speed.
I used to say that she is flat backed and mutton withered, but then I REALLY looked at her and she HAS a decent wither, but it is buried in muscle. To further complicate the issue she is short backed so there is no room to set a saddle back. I swear, if I took a protractor to her back I would get a reverse angle flare. I have tried a halflinger and a draft horse tree and neither was flat enough through the bars. Only the bottom third of the bar was actually making contact with her back. I tried one of Meleta's saddles on her and it rolls, just like every other saddle I have tried so far. I also tried a Caldwell (one of the wider trees) and it hurt me just to walk around in and nearly crippled me when I tried to lope through a pattern....and it rolled.
Since she is not finished, I cannot justify a custom made saddle for her, and the one saddle I had made to order on a specific tree I sold, because it was uncomfortable and impossible for me to ride effectively in. I did think that hubby's Billy Cook rope saddle fits her much better. I SO wish I still had one of the fly weight BC cutting saddles I rode in for years! But cannot ride the BC barrel saddles I have tried.
So FQHB don't work, what then are my options? I've been looking for a Lisa Lockhart to try next (this mare looks like she could be Louie's sister....maybe even his big sister, lol). The flex aspect of it makes me doubtful as my Circle Y Special EFFX is a rolling piece of crap on her too. The 8" gullet I ride her in now seems OK but the flare does not.
Grrrrr!
As for seat size I am not small but can ride comfortably in a 14" seat....until I run barrels. I need a 15" to be able to use the saddle horn effectively, I found that I pull myself down in a 14 instead of locking myself in. I also cannot stand a high cantle (low back issues) and HATE a deep seat, I want a flat seat where I can get over my legs instead of riding behind them. In an English saddle your seat size is determined by the length of your thigh NOT the size of your butt and I have to think that a western saddle is not so different.
My dad had a mare like that and had to get a custom tree made. Any saddle for a back like that will have more roll than what you ideally want.
You bring up an excellent point, the size of leg cut makes a monster difference in seat size. Too big of leg cut can make a seat feel a whole size bigger. I won a trophy saddle and was able to order the size. When I got it, I tried to rope in it and I was all over the place. | |
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 Cinnamon Honey One
Posts: 6549
    Location: between here and there | Too much rock will make your horse sore. It's resting pretty much in the center of the tree so once you get on to ride imagine a rocking
chair. Pressure in the center of the tree with the ends open. | |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 883
       Location: Southern Indiana | rodeoveteran - 2015-09-24 1:42 AM Well I have a buckskin elephant that I am trying to fit. It's not sweat marks I worry about but not being able to tighten the saddle enough for the saddle NOT to roll when I mount.....or turn a barrel at speed. I used to say that she is flat backed and mutton withered, but then I REALLY looked at her and she HAS a decent wither, but it is buried in muscle. To further complicate the issue she is short backed so there is no room to set a saddle back. I swear, if I took a protractor to her back I would get a reverse angle flare. I have tried a halflinger and a draft horse tree and neither was flat enough through the bars. Only the bottom third of the bar was actually making contact with her back. I tried one of Meleta's saddles on her and it rolls, just like every other saddle I have tried so far. I also tried a Caldwell (one of the wider trees) and it hurt me just to walk around in and nearly crippled me when I tried to lope through a pattern....and it rolled. Since she is not finished, I cannot justify a custom made saddle for her, and the one saddle I had made to order on a specific tree I sold, because it was uncomfortable and impossible for me to ride effectively in. I did think that hubby's Billy Cook rope saddle fits her much better. I SO wish I still had one of the fly weight BC cutting saddles I rode in for years! But cannot ride the BC barrel saddles I have tried. So FQHB don't work, what then are my options? I've been looking for a Lisa Lockhart to try next (this mare looks like she could be Louie's sister....maybe even his big sister, lol). The flex aspect of it makes me doubtful as my Circle Y Special EFFX is a rolling piece of crap on her too. The 8" gullet I ride her in now seems OK but the flare does not. Grrrrr! As for seat size I am not small but can ride comfortably in a 14" seat....until I run barrels. I need a 15" to be able to use the saddle horn effectively, I found that I pull myself down in a 14 instead of locking myself in. I also cannot stand a high cantle (low back issues) and HATE a deep seat, I want a flat seat where I can get over my legs instead of riding behind them. In an English saddle your seat size is determined by the length of your thigh NOT the size of your butt and I have to think that a western saddle is not so different.
I have the same issue on my mare. I get peeved with tightening my saddle and I know my mare does too! It would be nice to ride and not feel like my saddle is loose! My mare has whithers but they are fuller and more rounded. | |
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 It's not my fault I'm perfect
Posts: 13739
        Location: Where the long tails flow, ND | MS2011 - 2015-09-23 4:48 PM SmokinGirlie - 2015-09-23 2:56 PM I had my mare fit by a Martin Rep at an 8.5, custom ordered my Crown C saddle after I sold EVERYTHING I had previously been using to afford it. Got my saddle, made my first run and my mare stopped dead in her tracks between the 1st and 2nd barrel.....?! Tried it another run, same thing. I called Martin and ended up sending my saddle back convinced there was something wrong with the tree. In the mean time I kept one of my Carl Ammerman's (6 3/4 gullet, which I had ran her in previously) and smoked a 1D run the following weekend.
When I got my Martin back I sold it, way too skeptical for me, my mare has never done anything naughty or weird EVER. Then I began the saddle hunt, I had been using a Cactus Charmayne James until I recently purchased my Tami Semas.  How do you like the TAmi Semas? I love my current saddle, but that's kinda on my wish list of things I'd like in my tackroom. Love my Tami! It fits my 3, 4, and current mount which is crazy. Obviously with different pads. I have the Wide.
Edited by SmokinGirlie 2015-09-24 8:39 AM
(TamiS.jpg)
Attachments ----------------
TamiS.jpg (83KB - 192 downloads)
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  Whack and Roll
Posts: 6342
      Location: NE Texas | rodeoveteran - 2015-09-24 1:42 AM Well I have a buckskin elephant that I am trying to fit. It's not sweat marks I worry about but not being able to tighten the saddle enough for the saddle NOT to roll when I mount.....or turn a barrel at speed. I used to say that she is flat backed and mutton withered, but then I REALLY looked at her and she HAS a decent wither, but it is buried in muscle. To further complicate the issue she is short backed so there is no room to set a saddle back. I swear, if I took a protractor to her back I would get a reverse angle flare. I have tried a halflinger and a draft horse tree and neither was flat enough through the bars. Only the bottom third of the bar was actually making contact with her back. I tried one of Meleta's saddles on her and it rolls, just like every other saddle I have tried so far. I also tried a Caldwell (one of the wider trees) and it hurt me just to walk around in and nearly crippled me when I tried to lope through a pattern....and it rolled. Since she is not finished, I cannot justify a custom made saddle for her, and the one saddle I had made to order on a specific tree I sold, because it was uncomfortable and impossible for me to ride effectively in. I did think that hubby's Billy Cook rope saddle fits her much better. I SO wish I still had one of the fly weight BC cutting saddles I rode in for years! But cannot ride the BC barrel saddles I have tried. So FQHB don't work, what then are my options? I've been looking for a Lisa Lockhart to try next (this mare looks like she could be Louie's sister....maybe even his big sister, lol). The flex aspect of it makes me doubtful as my Circle Y Special EFFX is a rolling piece of crap on her too. The 8" gullet I ride her in now seems OK but the flare does not. Grrrrr! As for seat size I am not small but can ride comfortably in a 14" seat....until I run barrels. I need a 15" to be able to use the saddle horn effectively, I found that I pull myself down in a 14 instead of locking myself in. I also cannot stand a high cantle (low back issues) and HATE a deep seat, I want a flat seat where I can get over my legs instead of riding behind them. In an English saddle your seat size is determined by the length of your thigh NOT the size of your butt and I have to think that a western saddle is not so different.
You should contact Libby Hurley. Her saddle is made on a wide roping type tree. It's a flatter seat with a lower pomel and cantle. I had a horse years ago exactly like you're describing and it worked for her. As a 4 YO she had those big wide shoulders and was just ultra wide throughout. She did change as she matured and got some wither and then it wasn't such an issue.
Also, a saddleright pad will help with the stability. My current horse isn't round backed and does have a decent wither, but sucker will turn out from under you and leave you and your saddle hanging in thin air and off the side. I do have to snug my girth up a bit tighter than I want to, but without my saddleright, I feel like i'm riding a loose hided bucking bull. I've kept a saddleright pad around for years, but this is the first horse i've actually used it on consistently. | |
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The Advice Guru
Posts: 6419
     
| rodeoveteran - 2015-09-24 1:42 AM
Well I have a buckskin elephant that I am trying to fit. It's not sweat marks I worry about but not being able to tighten the saddle enough for the saddle NOT to roll when I mount.....or turn a barrel at speed.
I used to say that she is flat backed and mutton withered, but then I REALLY looked at her and she HAS a decent wither, but it is buried in muscle. To further complicate the issue she is short backed so there is no room to set a saddle back. I swear, if I took a protractor to her back I would get a reverse angle flare. I have tried a halflinger and a draft horse tree and neither was flat enough through the bars. Only the bottom third of the bar was actually making contact with her back. I tried one of Meleta's saddles on her and it rolls, just like every other saddle I have tried so far. I also tried a Caldwell (one of the wider trees) and it hurt me just to walk around in and nearly crippled me when I tried to lope through a pattern....and it rolled.
Since she is not finished, I cannot justify a custom made saddle for her, and the one saddle I had made to order on a specific tree I sold, because it was uncomfortable and impossible for me to ride effectively in. I did think that hubby's Billy Cook rope saddle fits her much better. I SO wish I still had one of the fly weight BC cutting saddles I rode in for years! But cannot ride the BC barrel saddles I have tried.
So FQHB don't work, what then are my options? I've been looking for a Lisa Lockhart to try next (this mare looks like she could be Louie's sister....maybe even his big sister, lol). The flex aspect of it makes me doubtful as my Circle Y Special EFFX is a rolling piece of crap on her too. The 8" gullet I ride her in now seems OK but the flare does not.
Grrrrr!
As for seat size I am not small but can ride comfortably in a 14" seat....until I run barrels. I need a 15" to be able to use the saddle horn effectively, I found that I pull myself down in a 14 instead of locking myself in. I also cannot stand a high cantle (low back issues) and HATE a deep seat, I want a flat seat where I can get over my legs instead of riding behind them. In an English saddle your seat size is determined by the length of your thigh NOT the size of your butt and I have to think that a western saddle is not so different.
I have one of those horses too, I tried many saddles
Tod sloan b3
Lisa Lockhart extra wide ( there is discrepancy if the new wides are the same as the extra wides)
Marlene eddelman by circle y
Sibley
I can't recall all the ones I tried and I end up getting her fitted by Brian and Tracey, she needed an 11 gullet with a flat tree, I don't shim her, and it is the only saddle that she is not cold backed in.
Good luck, I know how frustrating it is to fit these horses | |
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 Regular
Posts: 67
 
| So much to take in.
What about the Tammy & Jackie treeless saddles? Whats the fit experts thoughts on them? | |
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The Advice Guru
Posts: 6419
     
| Trippin - 2015-09-24 11:48 AM
So much to take in.
What about the Tammy & Jackie treeless saddles? Whats the fit experts thoughts on them?
The pommel is still solid material, so it can still pinch at the shoulders, but will conform to the rest of the back.
I believe this is why circle y made the regular and the wide in the Tammy and Jackie saddles | |
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 I Don't Brag
Posts: 6960
        
| Herbie - 2015-09-24 8:59 AM
rodeoveteran - 2015-09-24 1:42 AM Well I have a buckskin elephant that I am trying to fit. It's not sweat marks I worry about but not being able to tighten the saddle enough for the saddle NOT to roll when I mount.....or turn a barrel at speed. I used to say that she is flat backed and mutton withered, but then I REALLY looked at her and she HAS a decent wither, but it is buried in muscle. To further complicate the issue she is short backed so there is no room to set a saddle back. I swear, if I took a protractor to her back I would get a reverse angle flare. I have tried a halflinger and a draft horse tree and neither was flat enough through the bars. Only the bottom third of the bar was actually making contact with her back. I tried one of Meleta's saddles on her and it rolls, just like every other saddle I have tried so far. I also tried a Caldwell (one of the wider trees) and it hurt me just to walk around in and nearly crippled me when I tried to lope through a pattern....and it rolled. Since she is not finished, I cannot justify a custom made saddle for her, and the one saddle I had made to order on a specific tree I sold, because it was uncomfortable and impossible for me to ride effectively in. I did think that hubby's Billy Cook rope saddle fits her much better. I SO wish I still had one of the fly weight BC cutting saddles I rode in for years! But cannot ride the BC barrel saddles I have tried. So FQHB don't work, what then are my options? I've been looking for a Lisa Lockhart to try next (this mare looks like she could be Louie's sister....maybe even his big sister, lol). The flex aspect of it makes me doubtful as my Circle Y Special EFFX is a rolling piece of crap on her too. The 8" gullet I ride her in now seems OK but the flare does not. Grrrrr! As for seat size I am not small but can ride comfortably in a 14" seat....until I run barrels. I need a 15" to be able to use the saddle horn effectively, I found that I pull myself down in a 14 instead of locking myself in. I also cannot stand a high cantle (low back issues) and HATE a deep seat, I want a flat seat where I can get over my legs instead of riding behind them. In an English saddle your seat size is determined by the length of your thigh NOT the size of your butt and I have to think that a western saddle is not so different.
You should contact Libby Hurley. Her saddle is made on a wide roping type tree. It's a flatter seat with a lower pomel and cantle. I had a horse years ago exactly like you're describing and it worked for her. As a 4 YO she had those big wide shoulders and was just ultra wide throughout. She did change as she matured and got some wither and then it wasn't such an issue.
Also, a saddleright pad will help with the stability. My current horse isn't round backed and does have a decent wither, but sucker will turn out from under you and leave you and your saddle hanging in thin air and off the side. I do have to snug my girth up a bit tighter than I want to, but without my saddleright, I feel like i'm riding a loose hided bucking bull. I've kept a saddleright pad around for years, but this is the first horse i've actually used it on consistently.
Unfortunately, I already use a Saddleright, so cross that possibility off the list.
I will look into the Libby Hurley tho. Thanks CM!
edited to add: Just looked at the Libby Hurley saddles and found ones made by Circle Y and by Ammerman. Both had too much rise in the seat and too high a cantle. Sigh
Edited by rodeoveteran 2015-09-24 1:45 PM
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  Whack and Roll
Posts: 6342
      Location: NE Texas | Those are OLD makers. They're now made by Epic and appear to be VERY flat seated to me, like a roping saddle. Good luck! | |
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 I Don't Brag
Posts: 6960
        
| Herbie - 2015-09-24 1:47 PM
Those are OLD makers. They're now made by Epic and appear to be VERY flat seated to me, like a roping saddle. Good luck!
Saw the Epics too, and too much rise. Think cutting saddle.
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 Jr. Detective
      Location: Beggs, OK | rodeoveteran - 2015-09-24 1:37 PM Herbie - 2015-09-24 8:59 AM rodeoveteran - 2015-09-24 1:42 AM Well I have a buckskin elephant that I am trying to fit. It's not sweat marks I worry about but not being able to tighten the saddle enough for the saddle NOT to roll when I mount.....or turn a barrel at speed. I used to say that she is flat backed and mutton withered, but then I REALLY looked at her and she HAS a decent wither, but it is buried in muscle. To further complicate the issue she is short backed so there is no room to set a saddle back. I swear, if I took a protractor to her back I would get a reverse angle flare. I have tried a halflinger and a draft horse tree and neither was flat enough through the bars. Only the bottom third of the bar was actually making contact with her back. I tried one of Meleta's saddles on her and it rolls, just like every other saddle I have tried so far. I also tried a Caldwell (one of the wider trees) and it hurt me just to walk around in and nearly crippled me when I tried to lope through a pattern....and it rolled. Since she is not finished, I cannot justify a custom made saddle for her, and the one saddle I had made to order on a specific tree I sold, because it was uncomfortable and impossible for me to ride effectively in. I did think that hubby's Billy Cook rope saddle fits her much better. I SO wish I still had one of the fly weight BC cutting saddles I rode in for years! But cannot ride the BC barrel saddles I have tried. So FQHB don't work, what then are my options? I've been looking for a Lisa Lockhart to try next (this mare looks like she could be Louie's sister....maybe even his big sister, lol). The flex aspect of it makes me doubtful as my Circle Y Special EFFX is a rolling piece of crap on her too. The 8" gullet I ride her in now seems OK but the flare does not. Grrrrr! As for seat size I am not small but can ride comfortably in a 14" seat....until I run barrels. I need a 15" to be able to use the saddle horn effectively, I found that I pull myself down in a 14 instead of locking myself in. I also cannot stand a high cantle (low back issues) and HATE a deep seat, I want a flat seat where I can get over my legs instead of riding behind them. In an English saddle your seat size is determined by the length of your thigh NOT the size of your butt and I have to think that a western saddle is not so different. You should contact Libby Hurley. Her saddle is made on a wide roping type tree. It's a flatter seat with a lower pomel and cantle. I had a horse years ago exactly like you're describing and it worked for her. As a 4 YO she had those big wide shoulders and was just ultra wide throughout. She did change as she matured and got some wither and then it wasn't such an issue.
Also, a saddleright pad will help with the stability. My current horse isn't round backed and does have a decent wither, but sucker will turn out from under you and leave you and your saddle hanging in thin air and off the side. I do have to snug my girth up a bit tighter than I want to, but without my saddleright, I feel like i'm riding a loose hided bucking bull. I've kept a saddleright pad around for years, but this is the first horse i've actually used it on consistently. Unfortunately, I already use a Saddleright, so cross that possibility off the list. I will look into the Libby Hurley tho. Thanks CM! edited to add: Just looked at the Libby Hurley saddles and found ones made by Circle Y and by Ammerman. Both had too much rise in the seat and too high a cantle. Sigh
Libby has a new line. It's totally different than her previous saddles.
http://epicsaddles.com/hard.asp | |
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 I Don't Brag
Posts: 6960
        
| If it gives y'all any idea of this mare...Any saddle ends up feeling like you are sitting on a draft horse(and I know because I used to keep hubby's draft cross legged up and he is about 17.2 and weighed in at #1850). Anyone that gets on her complains about sore inner thighs after being on just a few minutes.
And Rachelnelly, if you didn't already see, I edited my previous post to sat that I HAD seen the Epics and too much rise and no indication of twist of bars to try and fit this mare. But thanks for the suggestions....keep 'em coming...especially if you have a wide saddle I can actually try on this mare, lol. | |
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  Angel in a Sorrel Coat
Posts: 16030
     Location: In a happy place | Tdove - 2015-09-23 9:05 AM Ok, I watched that video and I probably should just keep my mouth shut, but.... 1. It looks to me like the philosophy is to get a tree too wide for your horse and then shim it up to attempt to fit it. 2. It looks to me like the saddle fits in the correct spot, front to back (that is where all saddles should fit and a good fitting saddle does), but Martin just chopped off the front of the bars. I don't see where their saddle is anything but traditional, just with wider gullet and less bar up front. 3. That saddle even after the shim was WAY too wide for that horse. Even after the shim and saddle pad was added it fit way to low. 4. When a horse matures the width of the back is pretty much set in stone. That is the measurement side to side. If the back builds mass, then the only thing that would change is the angle. I ride all my saddles with a 6 1/4" tree and it will fit some pretty wide backed horses. 4. This might irritate some, but if Sherry wants to build that muscle up on the back, she should get the horse rounded in the back more and quite trotting it around with its head in the clouds and hollowed out in the back. I respect her tremendously, but riding a horse around like that is what atrophies the back, not the saddle. I was going into this open minded. But what I have seen so far makes no sense, to me (perhaps I am just wrong, it wouldn't be the first time). It does seem like more and more barrel horses are getting sore backs? I have talked to several custom saddle makers and they tell me the reason they don't make many barrel saddles is that barrel racers don't want to pay what it cost for a custom saddle. That confuses me, because barrel racers spend an incredible amount of money for the best horse and therapy products to keep them healthy. The best money I ever spent on any horse was a hand made, top maker saddle. I would bet if more people did this and fit them traditionally, back soreness would decrease considerably.
Love your explanation. I love my Vernon Purdy saddle. They are awesome. | |
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 Accident Prone
Posts: 22277
          Location: 100 miles from Nowhere, AR | rodeoveteran - 2015-09-24 1:37 PM Herbie - 2015-09-24 8:59 AM rodeoveteran - 2015-09-24 1:42 AM Well I have a buckskin elephant that I am trying to fit. It's not sweat marks I worry about but not being able to tighten the saddle enough for the saddle NOT to roll when I mount.....or turn a barrel at speed. I used to say that she is flat backed and mutton withered, but then I REALLY looked at her and she HAS a decent wither, but it is buried in muscle. To further complicate the issue she is short backed so there is no room to set a saddle back. I swear, if I took a protractor to her back I would get a reverse angle flare. I have tried a halflinger and a draft horse tree and neither was flat enough through the bars. Only the bottom third of the bar was actually making contact with her back. I tried one of Meleta's saddles on her and it rolls, just like every other saddle I have tried so far. I also tried a Caldwell (one of the wider trees) and it hurt me just to walk around in and nearly crippled me when I tried to lope through a pattern....and it rolled. Since she is not finished, I cannot justify a custom made saddle for her, and the one saddle I had made to order on a specific tree I sold, because it was uncomfortable and impossible for me to ride effectively in. I did think that hubby's Billy Cook rope saddle fits her much better. I SO wish I still had one of the fly weight BC cutting saddles I rode in for years! But cannot ride the BC barrel saddles I have tried. So FQHB don't work, what then are my options? I've been looking for a Lisa Lockhart to try next (this mare looks like she could be Louie's sister....maybe even his big sister, lol). The flex aspect of it makes me doubtful as my Circle Y Special EFFX is a rolling piece of crap on her too. The 8" gullet I ride her in now seems OK but the flare does not. Grrrrr! As for seat size I am not small but can ride comfortably in a 14" seat....until I run barrels. I need a 15" to be able to use the saddle horn effectively, I found that I pull myself down in a 14 instead of locking myself in. I also cannot stand a high cantle (low back issues) and HATE a deep seat, I want a flat seat where I can get over my legs instead of riding behind them. In an English saddle your seat size is determined by the length of your thigh NOT the size of your butt and I have to think that a western saddle is not so different. You should contact Libby Hurley. Her saddle is made on a wide roping type tree. It's a flatter seat with a lower pomel and cantle. I had a horse years ago exactly like you're describing and it worked for her. As a 4 YO she had those big wide shoulders and was just ultra wide throughout. She did change as she matured and got some wither and then it wasn't such an issue.
Also, a saddleright pad will help with the stability. My current horse isn't round backed and does have a decent wither, but sucker will turn out from under you and leave you and your saddle hanging in thin air and off the side. I do have to snug my girth up a bit tighter than I want to, but without my saddleright, I feel like i'm riding a loose hided bucking bull. I've kept a saddleright pad around for years, but this is the first horse i've actually used it on consistently. Unfortunately, I already use a Saddleright, so cross that possibility off the list. I will look into the Libby Hurley tho. Thanks CM! edited to add: Just looked at the Libby Hurley saddles and found ones made by Circle Y and by Ammerman. Both had too much rise in the seat and too high a cantle. Sigh
The new ones are are by Epic. The ones I've seen on the roping tree had a 4" cantle and low swells. | |
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 Elite Veteran
Posts: 851
      Location: West Texas | rodeoveteran - 2015-09-24 2:10 PM
If it gives y'all any idea of this mare...Any saddle ends up feeling like you are sitting on a draft horse(and I know because I used to keep hubby's draft cross legged up and he is about 17.2 and weighed in at #1850). Anyone that gets on her complains about sore inner thighs after being on just a few minutes.
And Rachelnelly, if you didn't already see, I edited my previous post to sat that I HAD seen the Epics and too much rise and no indication of twist of bars to try and fit this mare. But thanks for the suggestions....keep 'em coming...especially if you have a wide saddle I can actually try on this mare, lol.
It sounds like you are going to have to get a custom tree made, if you want a really good fit. On a top quality custom shop saddle, you could later get a new tree put in it and still have a nice saddle. Depending on how good the mare is, that might be an option. I think it would run around 500-1000 dollars to change out a tree. | |
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 Jr. Detective
      Location: Beggs, OK | rodeoveteran - 2015-09-24 2:10 PM If it gives y'all any idea of this mare...Any saddle ends up feeling like you are sitting on a draft horse(and I know because I used to keep hubby's draft cross legged up and he is about 17.2 and weighed in at #1850). Anyone that gets on her complains about sore inner thighs after being on just a few minutes. And Rachelnelly, if you didn't already see, I edited my previous post to sat that I HAD seen the Epics and too much rise and no indication of twist of bars to try and fit this mare. But thanks for the suggestions....keep 'em coming...especially if you have a wide saddle I can actually try on this mare, lol.
It's too bad you're so far away. Stanley at Allen Ranch is making his own flex tree now and he's been modifying some of them to have super flared out bars. He's always up for an experiment, lol | |
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 Ms Bling Bling Sleeze Kitty
Posts: 20904
         Location: LouLouVille, OK | This is all interesting considering I just ordered a new saddle and it's wider then my others. I figure different saddle makers are alot like different brands of jeans... it's all a matter of finding what fits and works no matter how wide they claim or don't claim... I have 2 different saddles right now with the same size gullet and they fit entirely different... | |
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The Advice Guru
Posts: 6419
     
| Tdove - 2015-09-22 9:41 PM
Is it only Martin? I don't know why a barrel horse would be any different than any other horse. As far as backs changing, I would think barrel horses today would have narrower backs due to more TB blood.
I cannot see how moving the saddle back is good. How do they get the front cinch to fit correctly? I want my saddles up forward. If angles are right and re shoulder flare is correct don't see how you can get much better.
One thing I know to be correct is that a good fitting saddle can do so with any pad almost, and shimming by definition means your saddle doesn't fit. Altering padding to fit saddles is not near as good as altering saddle fit.
They have a patented inskirt riggin that adjusts up to 2" so depending on where you want the cinch you can move the riggin to accommodate.
There are no other saddles that go bigger then 8" everyone measuring their saddle and saying it is a 10" gullet or even most that measure 8" are measuring wrong as to true measure the gullet you need to measure it while the tree is being made. | |
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The Advice Guru
Posts: 6419
     
| svincent - 2015-09-22 9:56 PM
cheryl makofka - 2015-09-22 7:28 PM
Crown c philosophy is different, they have their gullets big to allow clearance of the shoulders, as well as they sit their saddles farther back (behind the shoulder)
Also over the years the style of horses has changed, IMO.
I have one horse that her back is like a barrel, the only saddle that fits her is an 11 gullet crown c, and I tried them all and they just sored her up.
I tried the tod sloan b3
Lisa Lockhart extra wide
Charmayne James
Lynn Mackenzie nueva tree
Pozzi wide fit
Also people are more aware of muscle atrophy and are trying to prevent it. If your horse already has the atrophy, you may find their saddle fits, as the saddle has caused the muscle to waste away and conform to the saddle
Why does it need an obscene gullet for shoulder clearance when it sits BEHIND the shoulder. That doesn't even make sense.
Martin has an outstanding marketing strategist, that's for sure.
If you look at a horses anatomy you would know the shoulder sits on a pendulum. The crown c is supposed to sit behind the shoulder when the shoulder is at rest. When the leg is fully extended behind the scapula is farther back, therefore under saddle, also the muscle becomes larger as it has contracted. | |
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 The One
Posts: 7997
          Location: South Georgia | Herbie - 2015-09-24 2:47 PM Those are OLD makers. They're now made by Epic and appear to be VERY flat seated to me, like a roping saddle. Good luck!
Ah, I wish saddle fit was simpler! I need a chart to decode this issue! LOL So if my horse took an 8" gullet in a caldwell (for example), what angle of bars would I need in a traditional (6.5-7") gullet? We need a table to figure this out!
Why can't it be that simple? | |
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 Zeal Queen
Posts: 3826
       Location: TEXAS | I ride in a treeless saddle....seems that a treeless would take out all the worry about angels of the tree bars, etc. | |
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 Extreme Veteran
Posts: 545
  Location: Texas | slacy09 - 2018-02-13 3:12 PM I ride in a treeless saddle....seems that a treeless would take out all the worry about angels of the tree bars, etc.
You would think, but literally I had a TF treeless that did not fit my mare. It wouldn't stay tight, rolled and when you set it on her bareback it wouldn't even sit down on her. Guess maybe she needed a wide. I didn't ride well in it at all, so I sold it and had a tree made for her and back in a treed saddle. So much happier. She is wide-backed with hardly any withers, it was about bar angle for her not gullet size for sure. | |
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 Zeal Queen
Posts: 3826
       Location: TEXAS | TXBarrelRacer84 - 2018-02-13 3:23 PM slacy09 - 2018-02-13 3:12 PM I ride in a treeless saddle....seems that a treeless would take out all the worry about angels of the tree bars, etc. You would think, but literally I had a TF treeless that did not fit my mare. It wouldn't stay tight, rolled and when you set it on her bareback it wouldn't even sit down on her. Guess maybe she needed a wide. I didn't ride well in it at all, so I sold it and had a tree made for her and back in a treed saddle. So much happier. She is wide-backed with hardly any withers, it was about bar angle for her not gullet size for sure.
I have a mare with wider back and not much wither and I prefer treed on her. I think the treeless work better on the appendix types, at least it does for mine | |
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