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 Member
Posts: 40
Location: Laramie, WY | I am in search for opinions on a good bit to try on a strong running horse that will help us rate our barrels better...
He also seems to get his head up kinda high in his turns. I have shoulder injury that effects my arm strength, so looking for something that will help us get back to where we need to be.
Any input or experience with this would be greatly appreciated.
I've tried a few different things, but the 2 best ones have been a half wonder twisted wire, (that I normally work him in) and a Dennis Moreland sliding gag bit with a wired headpiece and twisted wire mouthpiece. Also, what do you work your horse in vs running them in?
Edited by WyodivaSS 2016-09-28 1:23 PM
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 Elite Veteran
Posts: 889
 
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 Elite Veteran
Posts: 966
Location: Loco,Ok | I made several. Clampitt Hackamores. |
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Member
Posts: 40
Location: Laramie, WY | I am trying a Ronny Campitt long shank hackamore next week! 
Edited by WyodivaSS 2016-09-30 2:35 PM
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Veteran
Posts: 111
| I like a hackamore combined with a german martingale. You've got lots of control, but it keeps their heads down and balanced in the turns. |
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 Extreme Veteran
Posts: 378
Location: Saskatchewan | Slow down and drill rate into his brain, maybe use a german martengale for a while as well.
Bit's dont magically make horses rate and turn better. |
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 Chasin my Dream
Posts: 13651
  
Location: Alberta | Connie Combs Stabilizer with Mullen mouth piece. |
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The Advice Guru
Posts: 6419
| Dave Elliott Oscar Bit |
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 Balance Beam and more...
Posts: 11511
Location: 31 lengths farms | Weaver Quick Stop or Ed Wright Pretzel bit. |
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Queen Bean of Ponyland
Posts: 24955
Location: WYOMING | I prefer two completely different bits for this depending on the horse and the rider.
A Swivel Polo Bit Low Port which looks just like a Rutledge Roper but the shanks swivel. This is a gentle but effective mouth pc even though some opinions say otherwise.
A Loomis draw twisted wire mouth paired with a bonnet. The bonnet keeps them from raising their head and evading the bit. When they raise their head your reins get longer and you end up with too much rein.
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Member
Posts: 40
Location: Laramie, WY | Thank you all for your input. I'm looking into trying a few bits and I'm interested in trying the German martingale. I have a bonnet that was used on him before with a hackamore but he didn't seem to like it much...? May have to try again.
Edited by WyodivaSS 2016-10-01 11:37 PM
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Regular
Posts: 73
| WTP Plain Western |
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 ...Dot Dot Dot...
Posts: 2064
Location: SW New Mexico | I have a different take on this subject..
I have one......
He is so big and strong ,he'd hurt my hands.. and lap the arena......
SO, I backed off.
I Learned life changing slow drills, and took everything else off. I gave him time, and repetition, to move his feet, and relax. I do slow work in a Jr. Cow Horse 3 piece , and split reins. a nothing bit!
Speed comes easy to this OTTQH.
Now he's turning better, clocking better, I compete in a little Pozzi 3 piece dog bone!
All I do now is drill him slow and trail ride him. It isn't a quick fix, I'm on 10 months now, and am sticking with this program for this particular horse.. but he's happier, and so am I, and he's clocking....
Thank you Paul Humphrey. <3
:)
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Member
Posts: 40
Location: Laramie, WY | Jettster, thank you. I have to agree...he needed to go back to some basics in order to start being respectful again. He definitely got the speed...& was clocking 1-2D times & doing well. Then boom...after I had shoulder injury & wasn't able to ride him as much he started acting up and not clocking as well. He's only 6 & we're still learning, but he knows his job and not sure what triggered this. |
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Member
Posts: 40
Location: Laramie, WY | I am thinking it could have been the sliding gag bit...so we're working him in a snaffle bit and split reins and going to try a ported lifter bit and a short shank lifter bit w/ a 2 piece twisted wire from shallowcreekbits.com. |
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 Zeal Queen
Posts: 3826
Location: TEXAS | Jim Warner hack or Ed Wright Pretzel....work wonders on mine! |
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Veteran
Posts: 171
| Agree Ed Wright Pretzel, Jim Warner Hackamore, and Rutledge Roper.
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1008
| Eds pretzel! |
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 Serious Snap Trapper
Posts: 4275
Location: In The Snow, AZ | I'll second the Connie Combs Stablizer bit. It's what I run my mare in. My friend has a super hard running horse. But he had not turn at all. Last night she tried my bit, and had a smoking run. |
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 A Somebody to Everybody
Posts: 41354
Location: Under The Big Sky Of Texas | Sherry Cervi bits are really nice to have around, you can get the short are long shank, I have both. I have them in the dog bone..
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 cervi2ss24sss.jpg (17KB - 181 downloads)
scssg22sss.jpg (5KB - 176 downloads)
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 Life Saver
Posts: 10477
Location: MT | I like a regular Sliester hack with a rawhide nose. |
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 Lady Di
Posts: 21556
Location: Oklahoma | WyodivaSS - 2016-10-03 12:07 AM
Jettster, thank you. I have to agree...he needed to go back to some basics in order to start being respectful again. He definitely got the speed...& was clocking 1-2D times & doing well. Then boom...after I had shoulder injury & wasn't able to ride him as much he started acting up and not clocking as well. He's only 6 & we're still learning, but he knows his job and not sure what triggered this.
When I get a horse like this that was clocking and working well and then doesn't, the first thing I do is take him to the vet. I make sure I've ridden him several days in a row so that if something IS sore, it will show up. I make them take an EPM test, just to rule it out (or treat as needed) as it seems to be running rampant all over the country and is more likely to show up if a horse has been off and then goes back into competition...the stress triggers it. Then I have them check hocks, stifles, etc. for anything that might be sore. Do teeth and level feet, if needed. Then I treat whatever shows up and give them the break needed after the injections or treatment of whatever, and if they're not working like they were STILL, I put on a draw bit and do slow work until they ARE working. However, if they have a physical problem that's bothering them, no amount of slow work, drills, or bits will make them work. Just my experience after 40+ years of doing this. Sometimes all they need to go back to working is a little physical help.
Edited by dianeguinn 2016-10-08 2:30 PM
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 Loves to compete
Posts: 5760
Location: Oakdale, CA | dianeguinn - 2016-10-08 12:28 PM WyodivaSS - 2016-10-03 12:07 AM Jettster, thank you. I have to agree...he needed to go back to some basics in order to start being respectful again. He definitely got the speed...& was clocking 1-2D times & doing well. Then boom...after I had shoulder injury & wasn't able to ride him as much he started acting up and not clocking as well. He's only 6 & we're still learning, but he knows his job and not sure what triggered this. When I get a horse like this that was clocking and working well and then doesn't, the first thing I do is take him to the vet. I make sure I've ridden him several days in a row so that if something IS sore, it will show up. I make them take an EPM test, just to rule it out (or treat as needed ) as it seems to be running rampant all over the country and is more likely to show up if a horse has been off and then goes back into competition...the stress triggers it. Then I have them check hocks, stifles, etc. for anything that might be sore. Do teeth and level feet, if needed. Then I treat whatever shows up and give them the break needed after the injections or treatment of whatever, and if they're not working like they were STILL, I put on a draw bit and do slow work until they ARE working. However, if they have a physical problem that's bothering them, no amount of slow work, drills, or bits will make them work. Just my experience after 40+ years of doing this. Sometimes all they need to go back to working is a little physical help.
ditto this! excellent advice..............................................................now follow it....... |
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 I hate cooking and cleaning
Posts: 3314
Location: Jersey Girl | dianeguinn - 2016-10-08 3:28 PM WyodivaSS - 2016-10-03 12:07 AM Jettster, thank you. I have to agree...he needed to go back to some basics in order to start being respectful again. He definitely got the speed...& was clocking 1-2D times & doing well. Then boom...after I had shoulder injury & wasn't able to ride him as much he started acting up and not clocking as well. He's only 6 & we're still learning, but he knows his job and not sure what triggered this. When I get a horse like this that was clocking and working well and then doesn't, the first thing I do is take him to the vet. I make sure I've ridden him several days in a row so that if something IS sore, it will show up. I make them take an EPM test, just to rule it out (or treat as needed ) as it seems to be running rampant all over the country and is more likely to show up if a horse has been off and then goes back into competition...the stress triggers it. Then I have them check hocks, stifles, etc. for anything that might be sore. Do teeth and level feet, if needed. Then I treat whatever shows up and give them the break needed after the injections or treatment of whatever, and if they're not working like they were STILL, I put on a draw bit and do slow work until they ARE working. However, if they have a physical problem that's bothering them, no amount of slow work, drills, or bits will make them work. Just my experience after 40+ years of doing this. Sometimes all they need to go back to working is a little physical help.
^^^^This |
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