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Location: Southeast Louisiana | Has anyone successfully used a rubber truck tire inner tube to teach an older, spoiled horse to stand tied? Most of the articles I find are about younger horses. How did you secure it? Did you double it over or just secure each end? Any tips? I'm planning on letting him eat at the tying tree with the tying apparatus just hanging there until he gets used to it and ignores it before I tie him up. I have tried other methods without success. If he can pull a rope all the way loose, he just walks off. He has that figured out. We have made a lot of progress and now he only does it in a few circumstances now. But, he has even more determination on the trailer since he keeps getting loose. He isn't panicked, he's spoiled and only does it because he knows he can get loose. So, I know he won't lose his mind and hurt himself. |
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  Neat Freak
Posts: 11216
Location: Wonderful Wyoming | I would use only a rope halter with a rope lead tied on. They learn they can break the hardware on nylon halters.
I teach all my weanlings to tie with an inner tube. I usually tie it to a solid post and stand by close with a knife in my pocket for worst case scenerios. Some will really throw a baby fit and even throw themselves down, but the tubes have so much give that they can get their legs back under them and get back up. Most try to walk off and then set back and hop forward and that is all it takes. I'd sure use it on one that sets back. |
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Expert
Posts: 1718
Location: Southeast Louisiana | I do use a rope halter on him, and that has worked well to keep him from pulling. Until a show recently where some circumstances pushed him over the edge at the trailer. So, now he seems to be powering through the rope halter. I've had a bunch of people tell me to use the chain over his poll trick. But, I think I want to try the inner tube first. |
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 A Barrel Of Monkeys
Posts: 12972
 
Location: Texas | Get a blocker tie ring. I never tie my horses solid. Some horses are just prone to set back and hitting the end of a rope panics them. I've even had a horse break an inner tube. The chiropractor gets expensive!! |
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Expert
Posts: 1718
Location: Southeast Louisiana | Fun2Run - 2016-11-15 11:12 PM
Get a blocker tie ring. I never tie my horses solid. Some horses are just prone to set back and hitting the end of a rope panics them. I've even had a horse break an inner tube. The chiropractor gets expensive!!
The problem with that is he just pulls the rope through and walks off. And, I'm tired of catching him four times at every barrel race. He doesn't panic. He really doesn't. I figured that out, and stopped responding to his antics at all! I just let him stand up, and continue what I was doing. That worked. He has mostly stopped, and pretty much stopped pulling completely at home. I need to address his pulling on the trailer. |
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| If you use an innertube .. tie it up over their heads to a very strong tree limb and wrap a brand new stout poly lead rope around the bottom leaving about a foot with the bullsnap hanging as a permanent hook up. Hang it where they can walk a small restricted circle ... this prevents them from getting their feet planted and using their body weight to pull back with... part of their body will always be at a wrong angle for them to do this
.... There is no rubber band type expansion on the innertube ... once they have lost the battle with the tube .. they will be able to feel the weight of the tube as a warning and will settle down and stand tied. Make sure tie is up high enough so they can't rear and get a foot over the bullsnap lead ...
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Since you have done an excellent job on teaching your old horse all the tricks in the book ... it is time for you to spend some money on a tack setup that can travel with you ...
Clinton Anderson has some of the best useful tack you can buy $$$$'s but will last a lifetime and keep your horse from getting hurt or a large vet bill ... so it is worth it ... around $150 ...
Items you will need ... his no stretch knotted nose band rope halter, 14 ft lead rope, 23 ft longe' line and his aussie tie ring .... (instructions on how to use 3 pressures included)
and 18 inches of 5/8's chain to hook tie ring to so you can wrap it around a high pipe fence or easily to your tie loops on your trailer or wherever ... just make sure it is over their head ..
By using the same equipment wherever you are .. your old horse will decide it is a no win situation and give up on pulling back ...
To start off ... chain your aussie tie ring to a 6 ft pipe fence with the 23 ft lead line ...
go ride the tar out of your horse and bring him back tired and dragging his butt .....
Hook him up to the 23' lead line thru your tie ring with the normal 2 ft from halter ... .. and then shout, jump up and down, scream, wave arms or whatever to get him to pull backwards down the fence line ... don't chase him ... you stop where he was first tied .... then just pull the lead rope back thru the tie ring to put him back where he was tied ... repeat this until he gets bored and ignores you without pulling back .... and he figures out the nose knots on the halter don't feel good and stops pulling back ... (most horses that pull back are tied too short and go into a panic frenzy ... if they can take a couple of steps back most will not pull back any further)
If the first pressure point is a game with him .... loop rhe lead as shown to the 2nd level pressure .... and do the same routine above ... to make pulling back a little painful and more work ....
Once he decides to stand ... go do your chores, ride other horses and if he pulls some slack ... go pull the slack back to normal tie position ... continue to do this all day long.. for the rest of his life ... lol ... he will decide he likes to stand in one spot ... lol
The good thing about the CA equipment .......it can be used on all age and size of horses from foal first learning to tie to the spoiled horse ......... and probably the best way ... with a good broke horse for safety reasons ... if something spooks him ... he may pull back a few steps and stop ... with no broken equipment or runaway horse ...
Lookie what I found ... could've saved typing a bunch of words ...
https://youtu.be/evul8o7AHyE
FYI: I used to build my own ratty long leads and longe' lines with rope materials and snaps I never liked ... then a barrel racer showed up working her horse with CA equipment 10-12 years ago ... and it was what I had tried to make all those years ... and the good thing .. it is high quality and wears like iron ...
MULTIPLE USES ...
HALTER .. always snug it up high on face, learn to tie correctly... to untie when horse has pulled back ... just push on the loop and wiggle the halter tie back thru the loop ... and these halters will not stretch like the cheaper rope halters .. you might want to buy a yearling halter in a different color so you can tell them apart ... use a nice smooth nylon halter on babies under 6 months old ...
14' LEAD ROPE... Once you get used to it .. you will throw your trashy short leads away ... it is long enough to use as a butt rope while teaching youngsters to lead or load into a trailer or use as a longe line ... First foal lessons .. it is long enough to hook onto foals halter while leading mare and letting foal get used to a little pressure while it is following mama ... it is long enough to get back in the trailer far enough so a hard to load horse doesn't jump on you when helper whacks them on the rear .. lol ... you will love the design of the bullsnap on this lead ..
23' LONGE' LINE ... everything above ... plus being a longe' line and my favorite when teaching young horses to load ... (or any horse that doesn't want to load) ... it is long enough for you to run thru a tie ring inside your trailer and walk back beside hip of your horse to give him a whack on the rump to jump in the trailer while keeping his face pointed into the trailer ... this longe' line makes it an easy one man job ..
Christmas is coming up ... ask Santa for money and find a friend that is a member of his club and let them order for you and save some money ... he does various sales this time of year ... like black Friday!!
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Expert
Posts: 1718
Location: Southeast Louisiana | Thanks for all the tips. I have tried the thing with a long line and just putting him back each time. He knows that game and, before long, he just began to insist on going past the end of the long rope. When he pulls loose with a shorter lead, I can go get him, but as long as that thing is still attached, he wants to keep going now. Very frustrating. He's not scared. He knows what he's doing.
I'm planning on using the inner tube on his tying tree first. There are no branches low enough to do what you described. He learned to tie up with his rope halter at the tree and got much better after working with him there. He couldn't break that. Of course, I had to graduate to a large chain with some big bull snaps. He broke everything else. Once I got the chain strong enough, he stopped trying to break it after a few tries. Like I mentioned above, he had a bad day Sunday and now he is pushing past the rope halter. Just laying against it. (He actually broke the slightly smaller bull snap. Pulled it loose at the swivel after several tries.) I'll have to use the tire at the trailer eventually, because that's where the problem is now. I was planning on using it at his old familiar tree first, though.
His rope halter was working well. So, I didn't try anything else. I might try one of the CA ones. That is the only thing I can untie after he pulls, so I think I got that right. If a regular lead rope doesn't break (snaps or the crimp or anything) I have had to cut one of those. I have a very hard time getting them loose when he sets back. The chain had been working. |
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Expert
Posts: 1718
Location: Southeast Louisiana | I actually have the CA 14' lead rope. I was using it Monday, just trying to get him back into his at-home routine, which included being saddled at the trailer. I looped it a couple times through the tie ring and just let him pull back, walk off, went and got him and started over about five times. He was settling down when he decided to walk off again and, don't you know, that dang thing had a little loop in it that somehow got bound up as the rope was sliding. He ended up breaking the aluminum tie ring. I ordered two stainless ones to fix my trailer.
e.t.a.: I don't love the design of that snap. I can't operate it with one hand.
Edited by Nita 2016-11-16 1:46 AM
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Expert
Posts: 1718
Location: Southeast Louisiana | wyoming barrel racer - 2016-11-15 9:21 PM
I would use only a rope halter with a rope lead tied on. They learn they can break the hardware on nylon halters.
I teach all my weanlings to tie with an inner tube. I usually tie it to a solid post and stand by close with a knife in my pocket for worst case scenerios. Some will really throw a baby fit and even throw themselves down, but the tubes have so much give that they can get their legs back under them and get back up. Most try to walk off and then set back and hop forward and that is all it takes. I'd sure use it on one that sets back.
With this horse's size, I'm thinking of doubling it up. I can undo the chain on the tree, and loop it through one end, but I'm not sure it it'll hold him, single strand... I'm thinking doubling it will at least hold his weight. I'm anticipating at least one good hard try at pulling before he decides it's just not going to work. Doubled up, it should still have enough give for a big horse. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 489
| It sounds like several people have given good ideas. You know your horse best and what is seeming o work for him. I'll offer one last ditch suggestion if nothing else works. I had a friend that had a bad puller at the trailer - the ONLY place he would do it. You could set a bomb off beside him elsewhere and he wouldn't pull back. We parked the trailer very close to a tree on the head side and took out the sliding bus windows on the tail side of the trailer where the horse was to be tied. We fixed up a halter and a very long lead rope that that sucker WAS NOT going to break. Tied the lead rope to the tree - ran it through the trailer and out the other window. I was in the trailer with a sharp knife if the lead had to be cut. Try as he might, he wasn't whipping that tree and he wasn't damaging the tie rings on the trailer. This also didn't cause the trailer to rock as bad ( maybe that is scary too once they get started?) We did this many, many times and he spent lots of hours tied to the trailer/tree. For a while, she went early to shows so she could "get a tree" if there was one so that he got the same experience/ result at a show. Eventually, he got to where he would tie anywhere. But its scary, and there is such a chance of one getting hurt. You have to weigh your situation and do what you feel you can live with. |
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 Owner of a ratting catting machine
Posts: 2258
| I had one of those. He just stayed in the trailer until it was time to saddle and go, then got back on the trailer after he was cooled out. I just won't fight with one that likes doing it, it's not worth the frustration for me. |
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Addicted to Baseball
Location: Where the stars at night are big and bright, TX | A blocker tie ring and a longer rope that can run through until he doesn't feel so trapped. That's how it's meant to be used to start with. Use a lunge line or a very long training line.
My new gelding lost an eye while tied to the trailer like he is every day, pulled back when something upset him, felt trapped because he couldn't get back enough, flew forward as that was the only direction to go and smashed his eyeball on the tie ring of the trailer, so yeah they can get hurt tied where they are spoiled or scared. Hindsight though he didn't need tie training but had he not still felt trapped he'd not have hit the end of the hard tied lead and flown forward. We had a blocker tie ring on every tie ring of the trailer - but that one.
Edited by Tilt The Kilt 2016-11-16 4:32 PM
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 Straight Shooter
Posts: 5725
Location: SW North Dakota | Oh man, setting back is the one vice that I can't live with! Your horse sounds like he's beligerent about it, not scared. You might try a doubled over inner tube, solid rope halter with no hardware, and a buttrope rigged through the halter and attached just a few inches longer than the leadrope. I think you can Google the setup, but basically, once they lean back to commit to pulling, the buttrope will tighten and encourage them to step forward. It really isn't cruel, but it would be advised to not leave them alone when they're tied like that. It's not something you have to do forever and it might not completely cure them, but it usually makes it 95% better. I've tried it and weaned them off by just leaving a buttrope on, but not attached.
Of course, you wouldn't want to do this with a horse that pulls because he's panicked or scared, but it does work good on one that pulls back just to be a jerk.
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Expert
Posts: 1718
Location: Southeast Louisiana | KindaClassey - 2016-11-16 6:06 AM
It sounds like several people have given good ideas. You know your horse best and what is seeming o work for him. I'll offer one last ditch suggestion if nothing else works. I had a friend that had a bad puller at the trailer - the ONLY place he would do it. You could set a bomb off beside him elsewhere and he wouldn't pull back. We parked the trailer very close to a tree on the head side and took out the sliding bus windows on the tail side of the trailer where the horse was to be tied. We fixed up a halter and a very long lead rope that that sucker WAS NOT going to break. Tied the lead rope to the tree - ran it through the trailer and out the other window. I was in the trailer with a sharp knife if the lead had to be cut. Try as he might, he wasn't whipping that tree and he wasn't damaging the tie rings on the trailer. This also didn't cause the trailer to rock as bad ( maybe that is scary too once they get started?) We did this many, many times and he spent lots of hours tied to the trailer/tree. For a while, she went early to shows so she could "get a tree" if there was one so that he got the same experience/ result at a show. Eventually, he got to where he would tie anywhere. But its scary, and there is such a chance of one getting hurt. You have to weigh your situation and do what you feel you can live with.
Awesome idea!! Thank you, so much. I had not thought about that. |
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Expert
Posts: 1718
Location: Southeast Louisiana | ND3canAddict - 2016-11-16 7:50 AM
Oh man, setting back is the one vice that I can't live with! Your horse sounds like he's beligerent about it, not scared. You might try a doubled over inner tube, solid rope halter with no hardware, and a buttrope rigged through the halter and attached just a few inches longer than the leadrope. I think you can Google the setup, but basically, once they lean back to commit to pulling, the buttrope will tighten and encourage them to step forward. It really isn't cruel, but it would be advised to not leave them alone when they're tied like that. It's not something you have to do forever and it might not completely cure them, but it usually makes it 95% better. I've tried it and weaned them off by just leaving a buttrope on, but not attached.
Of course, you wouldn't want to do this with a horse that pulls because he's panicked or scared, but it does work good on one that pulls back just to be a jerk.
Thank you. I wil look into that. I have only seen the belly rope trick on my internet searches.
e.t.a. This might be my new vice that I cannot live with, lol. I thought I could fix it, but it's just making me hate my horse.
Edited by Nita 2016-11-16 9:33 AM
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Neat Freak
Posts: 11216
Location: Wonderful Wyoming | Nita - 2016-11-15 10:19 PM Fun2Run - 2016-11-15 11:12 PM Get a blocker tie ring. I never tie my horses solid. Some horses are just prone to set back and hitting the end of a rope panics them. I've even had a horse break an inner tube. The chiropractor gets expensive!! The problem with that is he just pulls the rope through and walks off. And, I'm tired of catching him four times at every barrel race. He doesn't panic. He really doesn't. I figured that out, and stopped responding to his antics at all! I just let him stand up, and continue what I was doing. That worked. He has mostly stopped, and pretty much stopped pulling completely at home. I need to address his pulling on the trailer.
exactly what mine do. That just teaches them that they can get away any time they want. |
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Expert
Posts: 1718
Location: Southeast Louisiana | classicpotatochip - 2016-11-16 6:56 AM
I had one of those. He just stayed in the trailer until it was time to saddle and go, then got back on the trailer after he was cooled out. I just won't fight with one that likes doing it, it's not worth the frustration for me.
I have been doing that some in this nice fall weather. Once summer gets here, I know it will be too hot. Plus, once he is saddled, there are times I need to tie him up and go do something. A lot of the time, I get back and nothing has happened. But, sometimes I can tell he has pulled back. This past Sunday, he was having a bad day. I honestly think it was this full moon, all of them were acting up. But we did have some cooler weather, so he might have just been frisky.
Anyway, he set back a few times and I tied him to the fence. He was much better there. I went to ride and some kids had tied theirs up right where my halter was on the fence :/ So, I moved him to the trailer. I knew he would pull back and I just went along with it as usual, but everyone around me kept trying to walk up to him, touch him, offer advice, all that. And every time, his pulling got worse until he broke that one snap. I tied him again with the quick link doubled back to the chain to let him try again and settle because I thought he looked like the fight was out of him and he was ready to stop, but people kept stirring him up. So, I tried and tried to just get everyone to leave him alone, but they would not go away. He was not as settled as I would have liked when I took him off the trailer, and then some other stuff happened. Now, I have to spend the next couple of weeks on this newly elevated tying to the trailer problem that is now much worse. I'm just going to try a different approach with the inner tube. |
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Miracle in the Making
Posts: 4013
| or take a lariat rope around girth thru halter and tie when he pull basck it will shut air down he will 1 of 2 things quit pulling back aor faint keep a sharp knife only had to do a couple of time and it worked
never had to cut but my girlfriend had 1 she had to cut the rope on |
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 Expert
Posts: 1857
| The reason they usually pull back is because the feel trapped, when they pull back and can't get away it just makes it worse. I use inner tubes all over our place, freak things happen and they reduce the chance of one getting hurt if they pull back because of the give in it. Young ones stand many hours on them.
For this problem, which seems he associates with a trailer, creating something he can't break in my opinion will only create more anxiety for him and not really fix the root of the problem. I would get a 25-30ft cotton rope and just spend lots of hours with him. Run the rope through the tie ring a couple time or as many as you want(the more you wrap the more resistance), stand inside your trailer holding the end of the lead rope. When he pulls back allow the rope to run with him, the only resistance is from the wraps and slight tension from you holding it, when he stops, immediately ask for a step forward by pulling the rope, once he does, stop pulling. leave the rope and walk out and pet him, bring him back to the trailer and shorten the rope again, start the process over. Each time I would hold the rope a little tighter but only enough that he feels the pressure, his release is when he comes back towards the trailer. Don't encourage him to blow up, don't try to stop him when he does. Wear gloves!
After a few days and you notice that he isn't really focused on pulling back, I would start to increase the pressure. Have someone going in and out of the tack room, some one walk up and pet him and walk away, other horses riding around, dogs and kids running around the trailer, things that might create anxiety for him. Follow the process if he blows up.
He just needs to start thinking about what's going on around him instead of reacting first.
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 Cute Little Imp
Posts: 2747
Location: N Texas | vjls - 2016-11-16 9:52 AM
or take a lariat rope around girth thru halter and tie when he pull basck it will shut air down he will 1 of 2 things quit pulling back aor faint keep a sharp knife only had to do a couple of time and it worked
never had to cut but my girlfriend had 1 she had to cut the rope on
My sister did this to her horse, worked like magic! |
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 Member
Posts: 23
| I know this is an old post, but I could have written this! My horse has learned to pull through the tie ring and he will only pull back when tied to the trailer (so training him in trees or on thinking posts won't help). I wondered if anyone had success using the innertube on the trailer. |
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 Semper Fi
Location: North Texas | Hoot&Holler - 2021-02-22 7:14 AM
I know this is an old post, but I could have written this! My horse has learned to pull through the tie ring and he will only pull back when tied to the trailer (so training him in trees or on thinking posts won't help). I wondered if anyone had success using the innertube on the trailer.
From my experience and perspective, there is no reason that an inner tube tied off short to a trailer ring would not work. |
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Miracle in the Making
Posts: 4013
| this works to laiart rope around the girth up between leg thru halter and tie he sets back cuts off on air he will come back up but alway keep a sharp knife handy |
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| If you are using the tie ring and they have learned to pull through it double it when you run it through the ring, making sure the curve is to the back. If you have a dedicated puller they can still pull, get release even with it doubled and not pull the lead out. Also sometimes it could be the lead and the material that it is made of that causes it to pull through without any resistance. I have an old Cunningham training halter with a 14' lead. My worse puller would quit pulling before she got to the end of the lead because of the length and friction. Before the tie ring I did use an inner tube and still have a patience pole with an inner tube. I also carried one in my horse trailer and set it up so I could put it on a tie on my trailer. |
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 Keeper of the King Snake
Posts: 7617
Location: Dubach, LA | Nope. She tore up the inner tubes too. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 489
| vjls - 2021-02-23 7:09 PM this works to laiart rope around the girth up between leg thru halter and tie he sets back cuts off on air he will come back up but alway keep a sharp knife handy I've had to do this to a couple. I kinda hate to do it - but it gets the point across and they don't get relief until they stop. I really think that slip tie type rings are counter productive. I've had ones that would keep pulling for 50 foot because there was still some pressure. Once in a while they just have to find out they cant whip/outpull something. The larait rope and a homemade brad tack halter are my last resorts for the nasty pullers. People think I'm crazy for doing it, but I will always use something that wont break if I'm teaching a horse to tie. Mine learn by being tied to an overhead cable with a heavy duty Amish made halter. And I've actually got a system where I can untie them while staying well out of the danger zone. My stuff doesn't break - I cut one loose if a horse gets in a bad jam. I always pack a super sharp knife and I don't walk away. Even if I just have to set and read a book. I will put a regular "breakable" halter on one once I'm sure the lessons are learned especially if i can't be around to cut. I've only had one puller in my life and I think it's how I start them.
Edited by KindaClassey 2021-02-24 3:21 PM
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Inner tube used to teach a puller to tie?