Three 4 Luck - 2015-09-15 9:06 AM Times 100. 

And and actually, all draw reins help with is your frame. They don't make a horse collect or work off the rear, they just force them into a frame where collection is easier.  I personally prefer the get the pretty roundness because my horse has learned to push from the rear into his head, rather than frame him up and then try to create impulsion. 

tin can - 2015-09-15 4:36 PMI'd like to see a video of how to use two reigns.

cavyrunsbarrels - 2015-09-15 3:20 PM

  Now I have not used draw reins but I have riden with double reins (a curb rein and a snaffle rein) back in my hunter days. Anywho, it's relatively all the same. The snaffle rein should be the main rein that you use, between your ring and pinky fingers as usual. The curb rein (or in this case draw rein) you'll want to hold between your middle and ring fingers. You'll also want it looser than the snaffle rein so the only time it comes into effect is if the horse sticks their head way out or up, or if you raise your hand(s) slightly. It doesn't need to be dramatically longer, but shouldn't be constantly pulling on the horse. That's a good way to dull them or teach them to evade the bit, tucking their nose back to far, which in turn causes them to drop onto the forehand, lock their shoulders, and let their rear legs trail out behind them. You can see why using JUST a draw rein is asking for disaster. The horse gets no relief from the pressure so really don't learn anything from it. They're also dangerous in that if your horse spooks, bolts, bucks, etc. You have no way of controlling them. You can't get their head up if they get to bucking and as their head is tucked tighter and tighter it can cause more panic.Also, I want to note it is 100% possible to achieve all you want with no draw reins, martingales, or gadgets of any sort. Classical dressage is an example of this. But I understand some barrel horses are very high strung, hot, energetic, strong, etc. And using a training aids isn't necessarily a "bad" thing, you just have to be really careful that it is not a crutch and you are not using it to overpower and force your horse into a specific frame or move.

kscanchsnglaziergal - 2015-09-15 10:47 AM I am glad I posted this even risking sounding like an idiot. I recently spent a couple of days with a clinician. She suggested the draw reins, telling me that my problems are coming from my mare riding around on her front end... she had me work in a round pen type area with the reins attached to the sides (cinch) and to the smooth mouth o-ring. The are heavy draw reins with heavy hardware. She suggested working up to the reins being over the pommel and being able to walk trot and lope. She also had suggested in riding in them as much as I could - not with the reins over the pommel that was just to work up to the walk trot and lope. I admit I do not really know much about draw reins but to me it feels like maybe I am doing a quick fix or short term fix. Also doesn't seem like a healthy nor natural headset to work in every day. I feel like I am just putting her into a position. Is this really going to teach her anything. Maybe a better question is how do I get the real long term results without using the draw reins?

svincent - 2015-09-15 6:16 PM You are my training soulmate. I'm sure of it.

Dr. J - 2015-09-15 11:25 PM

Like many have said I'm not a fan of draw reins. A German martingale I'll use some, but not a lot either. There are two components to getting a horse round and collected. 1) teach them to break at the poll and to have forward motion at the same time. 2). Teach them to round their backs. The second step is most important. Also creating collection comes more from the riders seat/leg than their hands. This is why I'm also a huge German martingale fan - it over empasizes using your hands to create poll flexion. Which doesn't necessarily translate to true collection. 

What I LOVE to do is lunge in side reins. The horse gets equal and constant pressure on both sides of the mouth so there is no confusion there. I leave the reins kinda long so they start to stretch their heads down to pick up the bit. I don't want them to just tuck their nose and avoid the bit or brace against it. As the horse learns to flex some at the poll but also reach down and carry the bit you can see their back rounding up. I do this a lot with my horses but only for a few minutes each direction. I'll spend months slowly progressing from walk to jog to extended trot then to lope. The horse will learn to round up on their own without the interference of my weight or hands. I always use a large diameter snaffle with the side reins. 

The other thing I do is teach my horses to round their backs and break at the poll while I'm riding in response to equal and upward pressure from my calves. This takes awhile because they initially think you are asking to go faster. I start with a gentle bit (like a shanked, smooth dog bone mouthpiece) because you will use a lot of mouth pressure to keep them standing still or walking when applying the leg pressure. I have steady mouth contact and then start gently applying upward leg pressure. As soon as the horse gives any at the poll or rounds his back I release and praise. Be patient and slow with this but eventually they'll round up instantly when asked.