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 Expert
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Location: Southeast Louisiana | I'm putting four wooden rails over woven wire, with wooden 4x4 posts. Do I still need to stretch the wire? I can do it myself if I don't have to deal with stretching the wire and I figured with the fence tacked to four rails any slack would be hardly noticeable. But, I'm a fence novice. Also, I was thinking it would be best to put the wire and rails on the inside, since it's for horses, even though it would look better to have it on the outside. Any opinions from experienced fence people would be appreciated! |
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 Take a Picture
Posts: 12838
  
| Here is the easiest way to stretch any type of net wire. Give yourself an extra 3 feet or so of wire. Nail a 2 X 4 to the wire along the edge. Get a rope, chain or wire and attach it to the center of the 2 X 4. Hook it up to your truck and stretch the fence like that. Nail to all posts and the end post then cut off excess and wrap around the post. |
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Expert
Posts: 1718
Location: Southeast Louisiana | Thanks, streakysox! I've done that before, but it was wire on t-posts, so i knew i had to do it. I was just looking at it, thinking I might could skip that step, since i will be tacking each section to four rails. ....probably not. But, I was hoping someone would say they did it and it didn't make a difference. Plus, typing inside in the a/c is more pleasant than working on fence right now, soon... |
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  Damn Yankee
Posts: 12390
Location: Somewhere between raising hell and Amazing Grace | Yes. You need to stretch it either way. |
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 Expert
Posts: 4121
Location: SE Louisiana | Usually, if you stretch wire for a fence, you do it from a corner post. Those have to be braced. I'll include a picture as an example.... The first time we built a fence, we used what they called a "Witness tree" to stretch from... These were property markers.... For Woven Wire we nailed two 2x4s together with the wire sandwiched between them and used the barbwire come-along to tighten it.. We would drive nails every few inches for the wire to catch on... That way it was the nails that held the wire and not the 2x4s.
Edited by komet. 2016-05-31 2:11 PM
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Expert
Posts: 1718
Location: Southeast Louisiana | Thanks, komet. I like the tip about the nails. I had not thought of that.
...and I guess I'm going to have to stretch the wire. :(
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Expert
Posts: 1718
Location: Southeast Louisiana | Wire and rails on the inside, outside or doesn't matter?? |
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Go Get Em!
Posts: 13503
Location: OH. IO | How do you hook to truck to keep fence straight up and down? |
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| If you can build a 4 board fence with square posts ... you are no novice!! ... To nail the boards you have to end each board centered on one of the 4 inch posts which needs a flat side aligned perfectly with boards ... it is tuff to do ...
Unless you are planning on having sheep, goats or hogs I would skip the woven wire and make a pretty fence with boards on road side with a string of electric fencing strung on the inside hidden behind the top board ... and spend my money on a good 10 mile solar charger and treated lumber for your running boards and stain them if you want to ....... also use treated deck screws instead of the poor quality nails that come from china ... untreated boards and rusting nails will last maybe two years at best ... and shoot any humans that climb up on your fence or gates ... lol
Anytime you stretch any kind of wire ... you need 5 post corners concreted in so the constant uneven pressure will not pull your corners out of the ground or give slack to your wire .. which makes for a baggy fence ...
To take horse pressure off of your gates... on hinge end of gate have two braced posts to support the gate pressure and raise gate 6-8 inches higher than your fence ... also have a short piece of board(s) nailed/screwed to the post at the unhinged end of gate thick enough to set the bottom of the gate on to support its weight and take the leverage off of the posts at the hinged end of gate ..
Keep bottom board or wire 16 inches off the ground or your horses will paw and tear your fence down along with getting injured ...
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 Warmblood with Wings
Posts: 27846
Location: Florida.. | BARRELHORSE USA - 2016-06-02 10:50 PM If you can build a 4 board fence with square posts ... you are no novice!! ... To nail the boards you have to end each board centered on one of the 4 inch posts which needs a flat side aligned perfectly with boards ... it is tuff to do ... Unless you are planning on having sheep, goats or hogs I would skip the woven wire and make a pretty fence with boards on road side with a string of electric fencing strung on the inside hidden behind the top board ... and spend my money on a good 10 mile solar charger and treated lumber for your running boards and stain them if you want to ....... also use treated deck screws instead of the poor quality nails that come from china ... untreated boards and rusting nails will last maybe two years at best ... and shoot any humans that climb up on your fence or gates ... lol Anytime you stretch any kind of wire ... you need 5 post corners concreted in so the constant uneven pressure will not pull your corners out of the ground or give slack to your wire .. which makes for a baggy fence ... To take horse pressure off of your gates... on hinge end of gate have two braced posts to support the gate pressure and raise gate 6-8 inches higher than your fence ... also have a short piece of board(s) nailed/screwed to the post at the unhinged end of gate thick enough to set the bottom of the gate on to support its weight and take the leverage off of the posts at the hinged end of gate .. Keep bottom board or wire 16 inches off the ground or your horses will paw and tear your fence down along with getting injured ...
agree |
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 Witty Enough
Posts: 2954
Location: CTX | BARRELHORSE USA - 2016-06-02 9:50 PM If you can build a 4 board fence with square posts ... you are no novice!! ... To nail the boards you have to end each board centered on one of the 4 inch posts which needs a flat side aligned perfectly with boards ... it is tuff to do ... Unless you are planning on having sheep, goats or hogs I would skip the woven wire and make a pretty fence with boards on road side with a string of electric fencing strung on the inside hidden behind the top board ... and spend my money on a good 10 mile solar charger and treated lumber for your running boards and stain them if you want to ....... also use treated deck screws instead of the poor quality nails that come from china ... untreated boards and rusting nails will last maybe two years at best ... and shoot any humans that climb up on your fence or gates ... lol Anytime you stretch any kind of wire ... you need 5 post corners concreted in so the constant uneven pressure will not pull your corners out of the ground or give slack to your wire .. which makes for a baggy fence ... To take horse pressure off of your gates... on hinge end of gate have two braced posts to support the gate pressure and raise gate 6-8 inches higher than your fence ... also have a short piece of board(s) nailed/screwed to the post at the unhinged end of gate thick enough to set the bottom of the gate on to support its weight and take the leverage off of the posts at the hinged end of gate .. Keep bottom board or wire 16 inches off the ground or your horses will paw and tear your fence down along with getting injured ...
Do you happen to have a pic or drawing of this? |
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 Some Kind of Trouble
Posts: 4430
| cranky B4 10am - 2016-06-03 6:16 AM BARRELHORSE USA - 2016-06-02 9:50 PM If you can build a 4 board fence with square posts ... you are no novice!! ... To nail the boards you have to end each board centered on one of the 4 inch posts which needs a flat side aligned perfectly with boards ... it is tuff to do ... Unless you are planning on having sheep, goats or hogs I would skip the woven wire and make a pretty fence with boards on road side with a string of electric fencing strung on the inside hidden behind the top board ... and spend my money on a good 10 mile solar charger and treated lumber for your running boards and stain them if you want to ....... also use treated deck screws instead of the poor quality nails that come from china ... untreated boards and rusting nails will last maybe two years at best ... and shoot any humans that climb up on your fence or gates ... lol Anytime you stretch any kind of wire ... you need 5 post corners concreted in so the constant uneven pressure will not pull your corners out of the ground or give slack to your wire .. which makes for a baggy fence ... To take horse pressure off of your gates... on hinge end of gate have two braced posts to support the gate pressure and raise gate 6-8 inches higher than your fence ... also have a short piece of board(s) nailed/screwed to the post at the unhinged end of gate thick enough to set the bottom of the gate on to support its weight and take the leverage off of the posts at the hinged end of gate .. Keep bottom board or wire 16 inches off the ground or your horses will paw and tear your fence down along with getting injured ... Do you happen to have a pic or drawing of this?
I would think they mean this... where the red square is, a block to support the gate end.
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Witty Enough
Posts: 2954
Location: CTX | Ah ok, thanks for that visual Dodge. Makes sense.  |
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| Dodge629 - 2016-06-03 11:07 AM
cranky B4 10am - 2016-06-03 6:16 AM BARRELHORSE USA - 2016-06-02 9:50 PM If you can build a 4 board fence with square posts ... you are no novice!! ... To nail the boards you have to end each board centered on one of the 4 inch posts which needs a flat side aligned perfectly with boards ... it is tuff to do ... Unless you are planning on having sheep, goats or hogs I would skip the woven wire and make a pretty fence with boards on road side with a string of electric fencing strung on the inside hidden behind the top board ... and spend my money on a good 10 mile solar charger and treated lumber for your running boards and stain them if you want to ....... also use treated deck screws instead of the poor quality nails that come from china ... untreated boards and rusting nails will last maybe two years at best ... and shoot any humans that climb up on your fence or gates ... lol Anytime you stretch any kind of wire ... you need 5 post corners concreted in so the constant uneven pressure will not pull your corners out of the ground or give slack to your wire .. which makes for a baggy fence ... To take horse pressure off of your gates... on hinge end of gate have two braced posts to support the gate pressure and raise gate 6-8 inches higher than your fence ... also have a short piece of board(s) nailed/screwed to the post at the unhinged end of gate thick enough to set the bottom of the gate on to support its weight and take the leverage off of the posts at the hinged end of gate .. Keep bottom board or wire 16 inches off the ground or your horses will paw and tear your fence down along with getting injured ... Do you happen to have a pic or drawing of this?
YOU ARE EXACTLY RIGHT ...
THANK YOU FOR YOUR ART WORK!!
The picture of your gate also shows a brace post at each end of the gate which is great to keep fence from sagging and hard use at gates ...
I use 2x6 treated scraps ... to make it thick enough to support
that end of the gate ..
Edited by BARRELHORSE USA 2016-06-03 11:41 AM
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Expert
Posts: 1718
Location: Southeast Louisiana | jake16 - 2016-06-02 5:24 PM
How do you hook to truck to keep fence straight up and down?
I'm going to use a tractor so I can hook to the top and bottom of the bucket and I can adjust tension easier that way instead of just pulling from one point. Also, thinking of using ratchet straps so I can tighten the top and bottom separately. |
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Expert
Posts: 1718
Location: Southeast Louisiana | BARRELHORSE USA - 2016-06-02 9:50 PM
If you can build a 4 board fence with square posts ... you are no novice!! ... To nail the boards you have to end each board centered on one of the 4 inch posts which needs a flat side aligned perfectly with boards ... it is tuff to do ...
Unless you are planning on having sheep, goats or hogs I would skip the woven wire and make a pretty fence with boards on road side with a string of electric fencing strung on the inside hidden behind the top board ... and spend my money on a good 10 mile solar charger and treated lumber for your running boards and stain them if you want to ....... also use treated deck screws instead of the poor quality nails that come from china ... untreated boards and rusting nails will last maybe two years at best ... and shoot any humans that climb up on your fence or gates ... lol
Anytime you stretch any kind of wire ... you need 5 post corners concreted in so the constant uneven pressure will not pull your corners out of the ground or give slack to your wire .. which makes for a baggy fence ...
To take horse pressure off of your gates... on hinge end of gate have two braced posts to support the gate pressure and raise gate 6-8 inches higher than your fence ... also have a short piece of board(s) nailed/screwed to the post at the unhinged end of gate thick enough to set the bottom of the gate on to support its weight and take the leverage off of the posts at the hinged end of gate ..
Keep bottom board or wire 16 inches off the ground or your horses will paw and tear your fence down along with getting injured ...
I've done a half dozen or so fences. Mostly privacy fence. I have been good with getting my rails centered on the 4x4 posts and the ones I put up still look nice. I just haven't done one like I'm planning. So, I figured I'd ask and see if someone might have done some like this before.
I'm very particular about the screws I use. There are some torx head ones I like that don't split the ends of the 2x4's I've used before. Plus, they hold up nice to the exposure to weather.
I'm on three acres in a subdivision, so the wire is more about fencing out neighborhood dogs. Great point about the horses getting a foot over the bottom board. That pretty much made me decide to put the rails and wire on the outside. If it wa on the inside, they could get a foot between the wire and rail. So, thanks for that! Also, I can swing the cost of concrete on every post, since the place isn't too big. So, that'll help keep it looking nice.
Also, thanks for the tips about the gate support. That'll come in handy.
Edited by Nita 2016-06-04 7:57 AM
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 The Color Specialist
Posts: 7530
Location: Washington. (The DRY side.) | You really want the wire and or boards on the INSIDE of the posts. Putting them on the outside, if a horse pushes on the fence, (or rubs it's butt on it,) it can pop the boards off. Personally, I would also SCREW the boards to the fence rather than nailing them.
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Expert
Posts: 1543
Location: MI | RacingQH - 2016-06-05 1:00 PM
You really want the wire and or boards on the INSIDE of the posts. Putting them on the outside, if a horse pushes on the fence, (or rubs it's butt on it,) it can pop the boards off. Personally, I would also SCREW the boards to the fence rather than nailing them.
I agree with Racin. We did a few feet of posts and board, and the board on the inside have held up far better than the board on the outside. |
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