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Expert
Posts: 2685
     
| 1. water- I want to extend my water line from the spigot I have closest to the barn site. Its about 150ft from where the barn will be. Has anyone ever A) done this themselves or B) paid a plumber and could you tell me about either/both please
2. electric- tell me your experiences, I have been told to call the elec company and talk to them about having a pole put out there and a meter for the barn (told that part is free provided I pay separate service for the barn)
3. flooring/base- thinking to level the ground and use crushed stone and put mats in stalls. Input?
thanks
looking to have a 18x36 or 20x36 barn
Also, I am in a small town near OKC, OK- what about permits? I looked at the town website and it has a building permit app but I live in the country.... |
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 Elite Veteran
Posts: 1035
  Location: TN | I can only help with #3... When my parents had their barn built we filled the stalls with crushed rock and rented this thing that smashed them down tight like concrete so there wouldn't be any shifting. Then we covered them with mats that fit snugly together. Never had any more problems with unlevel stalls and have not had to move the mats at all in the last 13 years that it's been like that. That's what I'd recommend doing if you can. |
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| RoaniePonie11 - 2016-03-20 9:44 PM
1. water- I want to extend my water line from the spigot I have closest to the barn site. Its about 150ft from where the barn will be. Has anyone ever A) done this themselves or B) paid a plumber and could you tell me about either/both please
2. electric- tell me your experiences, I have been told to call the elec company and talk to them about having a pole put out there and a meter for the barn (told that part is free provided I pay separate service for the barn)
3. flooring/base- thinking to level the ground and use crushed stone and put mats in stalls. Input?
thanks
looking to have a 18x36 or 20x36 barn
Also, I am in a small town near OKC, OK- what about permits? I looked at the town website and it has a building permit app but I live in the country....
Be careful ... you are in the process of letting everyone run up your cost on your
simple little barn that you want to build on a budget ... so think twice and look
at the future ....
1.) What's wrong with buying 3 100ft hoses from Sears made of black rubber
with lifetime guarantees on them... $40-50 EACH ... with a good turnoff sprayer
on the end. All sears wants for warranty replacement are the ends cut off the
hose and you keep the remaining hose which you can put new ends on and use
elsewhere ... I did this the other day with a couple of hoses that were 5-6 years
old.
WATER LINE ..
First thing ... Raise your barn floor a foot higher than surrounding ground for anti
flooding purposes .. make it 8 ft longer and wider than what you are going to build
right now for drainage purposes ... outline your shedrow barn with tposts and string
Now you are ready to run a water line ... no structure to interfere with the trencher
you are going to rent ... most water line now comes in 20 ft lengths ... attach 2 together
and make a line with them to where you want your FROST FREE FAUCET (a good one with parts
$100) OUTSIDE THE BARN AT YOUR OPEN SIDE..( you will know why later)... lay them
on the clear side where the trencher does not throw any dirt as a guide line for the
trencher .. after trench is dug ... combine them as you work your way from the faucet
to the barn .. put a post in to secure your frost free faucet to so a bump will not create
a water leak ... if your faucet you are hooking to is not a frost free ... do it now ...
Now you are ready to have your carport barn installed ...
2.) Most electric companies no longer have a 1-2 pole freebie ... they charge you for
any and everything so check with your electric company after you measure distance
from nearest current pole to the barn ... put pole as close as you can to the barn
so meter can be on pole and no stress running wires to this light weight structure
You and hubby can run the flex steel electric wiring all inside the barn for lights
and fan plug ins .... then have electrician wire it up and provide the main box ..
Just use the plastic ties to hold flex steel wiring in place .. with a 2 ft coil of slack
in each run you make .. for splicing etc etc ...
3.) Excellent advice above if you do this ... you can also rent the pounder for this ...
Check budget ... washed grit/gravel is not cheap ..
THIS IS WHAT I CALL A SHED ROW BARN OR PASTURE RUN-IN .... NO PEAK IN THE ROOF ...
this has huge advantages for future expansion ... just make sure back wall is 10 ft tall
and fully covered to break the north wind ... long side should run east and west with open
side to the south ... with west end closed in ... north and west is where your blowing rains
come from ... almost no windy rain comes from the east or south ..
As you can see this is not one of the carport kits ... but they will make you a shedrow style ..
look at the building plans for a carport setup .. each joint is a strange 5 ft .. so make sure
interior of walls is 40 ft ... then you can setup 12 ft panels inside for stalls with ease and
not be shorted a foot or so ..
This shed row appears to be 12 x 24 with an 8 ft rear wall ... you want it to be 10 ft so
your horses do not bake in our Okla summers ..
Edited by BARRELHORSE USA 2016-03-21 2:35 AM
(BARN SHED ROW.jpg)
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BARN SHED ROW.jpg (83KB - 173 downloads)
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| OK ROANIE ...
Study these pictures .... one is two shed rows faced up together ...
if you did 20 ft shed rows with 12 ft stalls etc on each side you would end up with a
nice 16 ft alleyway to drive a truck and trailer into with room to walk around vehicles.
or protect from a storm ..
HA HA ... you have to expand in your mind with carport shedrows ... lol
for demonstration purposes only ..
If you look .. you can see the main structure is carport shedrows and they are
building some kind of storage rooms inside it ..
Edited by BARRELHORSE USA 2016-03-21 3:19 AM
(BARN 2 SHEDROWS.jpg)
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BARN 2 SHEDROWS.jpg (53KB - 171 downloads)
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| Now here we come with your future ... the red barn with square sides was around $4000 installed ..
but again you want to raise the two shed rows to have 10 ft back walls on them ... standard is 8 ft and you can order 10 ft legs for a few dollars more ... very good price on extending legs ..
The red barn with the rounded corners is again for demonstration purposes to give you a look ..
at what a raised center barn looks like ..
The red barn with the square side walls is my preference ...
Another photo shows you how simple one can be ...
Now study these pictures and notice ... they have a RV port in the center with shed rows on either
side ...
If I was building one of these right now knowing I would want more room in the future ...
I WOULD BUILD THE RV PORT FIRST ...... with the long north wall and the west wall covered ...
You can see how simple it would be to take the side walls off and use them as the roof and buy metal
to fit the new walls of the north shed row. The RV port would now be your alleyway ... so you
could fit a door or whatever on the west end after you do the shedrows in the future ...
This way you are wasting no money and planning ahead ..
Keeping with the future plan of 10 ft walls on the back walls of your shedrows ...
the RV port legs could be 12-14 ft tall .... with peak being 1-2 ft taller as built ..
Another good thing about these RV-car-port things ... is there is limited roosts
for birds inside of them ... lol
Ok here comes some pictures ..
(BARN RAISED CENTER 2 SHEDROWS 60.jpg)
(BARN CENTER SHEDROW ON EACH SIDE 65.jpg)
(BARN WITH SQUARE SHEDROWS 65.jpg)
Attachments ----------------
BARN RAISED CENTER 2 SHEDROWS 60.jpg (83KB - 172 downloads)
BARN CENTER SHEDROW ON EACH SIDE 65.jpg (78KB - 165 downloads)
BARN WITH SQUARE SHEDROWS 65.jpg (90KB - 178 downloads)
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Expert
Posts: 2685
     
| thank you.
priority #1 will be getting the barn put up. The way my place is set up, to save space, I will have to do an east facing set up with stalls on one side. I do not have the room for a big barn, or the budget or the need. I am one of those that would acquire the same number of horses as stalls lol.
Water and electric will wait but I need to find out how to go about it when the time comes. That's why i ask. I will definitely be watering with long hoses and doing chores in daylight for a while.
thanks so much for the input!
(images.jpg)
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 Midget Lover
          Location: Kentucky | We bought 500 of water line from local builder supply. Trenched it below frost line, dropped the line in, and tapped into the water in our home and then to the frost-free spigot in the barn.
We also trenched electric from our garage (which also runs to the house). We do not have a separate pole or meter for the barn, just the electric panel in the tack room.
My barn is 250 feet from my house and garage.
Can't help you with #3, we built my barn on dirt floors. I would recommend the crushed stone and mats though. |
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Meanest Teacher!!!
Posts: 8552
      Location: sunny california | Hubby did all the electric and plumbing for the barn. the house had a 200 amp panel then he put a 100 amp sub panel in the garage then from that a 75 amp sub panel in the barn. both garage and barn have 110/220 . each stall has a light inside and working on outside lights but only have half done. also outlets on both ends which come in handy. the plumbing had a 1 inch (or 1 1/4 can't remember which) line going to outside the barn. the hoses on the outside have 1 inch so lots of pressure. so hubby put in a regulator to downgrade the pressure after the spigots but before the barn so it would not blow out the nelson waterers.
foundation has nice footings so even if the corral has a flood it drains and doesn't enter inside. the base was the natural soil but the guy that did the grading brought a full blade as he works for caltrans. He got 96% compaction ( being a Geologist I was very impressed) so no need to add the crushed rock. we put down tightly fitting matts over the base. |
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  Warmblood with Wings
Posts: 27846
           Location: Florida.. | I had a Morton barn and they had to pull permits and had electric meter seperate .had a light pole etc... Plumbers trenched water lines in from the well by my house..
the second barn I had built a friend built it but had to still pull permits but he trenched in pvc water lines.. the hoses are fine but at some point they will go bad .. Under ground they will not last ..
we have a seperate meter as well.
the flooring was cement except stalls and that was clay and had heavy duty mats..
There are cheaper methods but If I were you Id do it right the first time.. the buildings Barrel horse posted are also very economical and functionable.. it just is up to you the price you want to spend but no matter what a good foundation is a must.. and a licensed electrician for the electric.. |
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| RoaniePonie11 - 2016-03-21 7:43 AM
thank you.
priority #1 will be getting the barn put up. The way my place is set up, to save space, I will have to do an east facing set up with stalls on one side. I do not have the room for a big barn, or the budget or the need. I am one of those that would acquire the same number of horses as stalls lol.
Water and electric will wait but I need to find out how to go about it when the time comes. That's why i ask. I will definitely be watering with long hoses and doing chores in daylight for a while.
thanks so much for the input!
HEY ROANIE ... BUDGET TIME ..
Here is what you need ... comes in 5 ft sections so keep adding until you run out of money ..
most come with free installation on your level pad ...
OR JUST ADD 2 TOGETHER .. SAME DIFFERENCE
Follow my advice on other items .. been there made mistakes ..lol
$695 for a 20x21 carport ... with 8 ft legs now ... do the 10 ft legs .. the extra length is cheap!!
add you an extra 5 ft ... for feed barrels or saddle rack or just plain junk ...
You can do everything inside with panels and bow gates for stalls etc ...
They use mobile home metal anchors to tie these things in the ground ...
I have never seen one blow away yet .. even sitting out in the middle of a field
and I live close to tornado alley in Oklahoma ... lol
and do your one north wall fully covered ...
Now get your pen and paper and just figure out the above bare minimums to start out with ..
http://www.alansfactoryoutlet.com/blog/bid/69628/20x21-Carport-Pref...
If you don't like this company... do ....Google Images .... carport
NO ONE NEEDS TO GO WITHOUT LIGHT IN YOUR BARN ANYMORE ....
LED SOLAR POWERED LIGHTS WITH 60-80 LED'S AND MOTION SENSORS ARE RUNNING
$30-40 ON EBAY AND AMAZON ..
How you direct the motion sensor is a good thing ... it will tell you if something is moving around
in the open area of your barn at night .... no need for a light switch when you walk in ... it comes on and stays on while you are in there moving around ...
GOOD LUCK ...
Edited by BARRELHORSE USA 2016-03-21 11:41 PM
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 Expert
Posts: 1392
       Location: Central Texas | I just built a 24x36 RCA style barn. I did EVERYTHING myself. I have a total around $7000 invested in it. Here is my experience with the questions you asked. 1. Water - I still have several good quality hoses hooked together and ran down the fence line to the barn. I will someday actually install proper water lines but this was on the bottom of my list of must haves. 2. Electricity - I called the electric company they were going to charge me several thousands of dollars to set a pole at the barn so instead I got out the shovels and pic ax and started digging. 250 ft from the house to the barn. Went to a local electric supply warehouse and talked to the manager, explained what I had (took pictures of current box on the house etc) explained what I wanted in the barn and he helped me figure amps, wire sizes etc. Bought all the supplies. I ran all the wires underground and installed 20 electric outlets, 3 stall fans (each having their own on/off switches) Aisle light, light for each individual stall, outside lights, feed/tack room lights. Sub panel installed in the tack room. Each light has it's own switch so I can have any combo of lights that I want on. I got an amazing shop style led light for the alley way and the tack room. Those suckers are bright and I hardly ever use any of the other lights. I hired an electrician to come out after and do the hook up. I don't mind doing all the manual labor but dealing with the live main panel on the house scares me!! All in (includes all the light fixtures and fans) I have right at $2000 in the electricity....which is less than the electric company was going to charge me for just the pole. 3. Flooring - I made trips to the local cement place and they would fill my truck up for $10 with crushed stone. I'm happy with that decision. I put mats over it in the stalls. I also drilled some 3/8" holes in the mats in the spots that my gelding likes to pee so it drains down through the gravel and away. Permits - I live in the country, no permits needed here. |
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 Expert
Posts: 2457
      
| RoaniePonie11 - 2016-03-20 9:44 PM
1. water- I want to extend my water line from the spigot I have closest to the barn site. Its about 150ft from where the barn will be. Has anyone ever A) done this themselves or B) paid a plumber and could you tell me about either/both please
2. electric- tell me your experiences, I have been told to call the elec company and talk to them about having a pole put out there and a meter for the barn (told that part is free provided I pay separate service for the barn)
3. flooring/base- thinking to level the ground and use crushed stone and put mats in stalls. Input?
thanks
looking to have a 18x36 or 20x36 barn
Also, I am in a small town near OKC, OK- what about permits? I looked at the town website and it has a building permit app but I live in the country....
We have built a couple barns and the hubs has "rehabbed" more than a dozen. Set your budget first ....
1) water - yes you can rent a trencher and do it yourself. It requires a bit of know-how but is not impossible. Hit up a Menards or Lowes or Home Depot and buy the flexible pipe stuff ( similar to the pex type) and make sure to have your trench below your frost line. Make sure your spigot inside is positioned properly and out of the way on one end of the barn. Seal all the connections really, really well.
We have paid to have it done before and the hubs thought it was a waste since he is handy and just did it himself the next time. If you're not the handy type, it is not cost prohibitive to have someone do it - but hoses also can get you through until your budget allows for the trenching.
2) Electric - the hubs has also done a ton of this. ALWAYS have it inspected and a licensed electrician connect it to your pole. We recently updated our service to the whole farm since we are adding on more buildings - our electric company put in a new pole (in a better spot) and updated the service all for free (also since our bill is obviously going to increase). Again, it isn't difficult, but I personally hate electricity and won't deal with it. To each their own, and always have it inspected for sure.
3) Flooring - depending on budget, start with dirt. Get it level. Then come back in with crushed stone of some sort. Here in KS, limestone is plentiful and can be found fairly inexpensive. Rent the pounder thing another poster was talking about - wet your crushed stone really well, then pound into a level pad. Add mats over the top for extra cushion and to prevent the pawers from digging it up. (and yes they can if it gets wet) |
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  Warmblood with Wings
Posts: 27846
           Location: Florida.. | GraciousLegacy - 2016-03-22 10:35 AM I just built a 24x36 RCA style barn. I did EVERYTHING myself. I have a total around $7000 invested in it. Here is my experience with the questions you asked. 1. Water - I still have several good quality hoses hooked together and ran down the fence line to the barn. I will someday actually install proper water lines but this was on the bottom of my list of must haves. 2. Electricity - I called the electric company they were going to charge me several thousands of dollars to set a pole at the barn so instead I got out the shovels and pic ax and started digging. 250 ft from the house to the barn. Went to a local electric supply warehouse and talked to the manager, explained what I had (took pictures of current box on the house etc) explained what I wanted in the barn and he helped me figure amps, wire sizes etc. Bought all the supplies. I ran all the wires underground and installed 20 electric outlets, 3 stall fans (each having their own on/off switches) Aisle light, light for each individual stall, outside lights, feed/tack room lights. Sub panel installed in the tack room. Each light has it's own switch so I can have any combo of lights that I want on. I got an amazing shop style led light for the alley way and the tack room. Those suckers are bright and I hardly ever use any of the other lights. I hired an electrician to come out after and do the hook up. I don't mind doing all the manual labor but dealing with the live main panel on the house scares me!! All in (includes all the light fixtures and fans) I have right at $2000 in the electricity....which is less than the electric company was going to charge me for just the pole. 3. Flooring - I made trips to the local cement place and they would fill my truck up for $10 with crushed stone. I'm happy with that decision. I put mats over it in the stalls. I also drilled some 3/8" holes in the mats in the spots that my gelding likes to pee so it drains down through the gravel and away. Permits - I live in the country, no permits needed here. How did the electricians put his stamp on it .. if the barn burns down due to faulty wiring etc? or in your area it doesnt need to pass inspection? my one farm was 54 acreas in florida and i still needed permits . maybe states do it differantly..
Edited by Bibliafarm 2016-03-23 9:50 AM
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Posts: 1392
       Location: Central Texas | Bibliafarm - 2016-03-23 9:48 AM GraciousLegacy - 2016-03-22 10:35 AM I just built a 24x36 RCA style barn. I did EVERYTHING myself. I have a total around $7000 invested in it. Here is my experience with the questions you asked.
1. Water - I still have several good quality hoses hooked together and ran down the fence line to the barn. I will someday actually install proper water lines but this was on the bottom of my list of must haves.
2. Electricity - I called the electric company they were going to charge me several thousands of dollars to set a pole at the barn so instead I got out the shovels and pic ax and started digging. 250 ft from the house to the barn. Went to a local electric supply warehouse and talked to the manager, explained what I had (took pictures of current box on the house etc) explained what I wanted in the barn and he helped me figure amps, wire sizes etc. Bought all the supplies. I ran all the wires underground and installed 20 electric outlets, 3 stall fans (each having their own on/off switches) Aisle light, light for each individual stall, outside lights, feed/tack room lights. Sub panel installed in the tack room. Each light has it's own switch so I can have any combo of lights that I want on. I got an amazing shop style led light for the alley way and the tack room. Those suckers are bright and I hardly ever use any of the other lights. I hired an electrician to come out after and do the hook up. I don't mind doing all the manual labor but dealing with the live main panel on the house scares me!! All in (includes all the light fixtures and fans) I have right at $2000 in the electricity....which is less than the electric company was going to charge me for just the pole.
3. Flooring - I made trips to the local cement place and they would fill my truck up for $10 with crushed stone. I'm happy with that decision. I put mats over it in the stalls. I also drilled some 3/8" holes in the mats in the spots that my gelding likes to pee so it drains down through the gravel and away.
Permits - I live in the country, no permits needed here.
How did the electricians put his stamp on it .. if the barn burns down due to faulty wiring etc? or in your area it doesnt need to pass inspection? my one farm was 54 acreas in florida and i still needed permits . maybe states do it differantly..
I did not make any of the connections in the panels. Electrician did that. I dug the ditch and put in outlets, hung fans, and hung lights. No different than installing a fan in the living room in your home or changing out an outlet in your kitchen. I have always lived in Texas and out here in the country I didn't have to have permits to build or anything like that. If I lived in town then yes permits would have been required. |
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 Ms. Poutability
Posts: 2362
      Location: In my own world | Bibliafarm - 2016-03-23 9:48 AM GraciousLegacy - 2016-03-22 10:35 AM I just built a 24x36 RCA style barn. I did EVERYTHING myself. I have a total around $7000 invested in it. Here is my experience with the questions you asked.
1. Water - I still have several good quality hoses hooked together and ran down the fence line to the barn. I will someday actually install proper water lines but this was on the bottom of my list of must haves.
2. Electricity - I called the electric company they were going to charge me several thousands of dollars to set a pole at the barn so instead I got out the shovels and pic ax and started digging. 250 ft from the house to the barn. Went to a local electric supply warehouse and talked to the manager, explained what I had (took pictures of current box on the house etc) explained what I wanted in the barn and he helped me figure amps, wire sizes etc. Bought all the supplies. I ran all the wires underground and installed 20 electric outlets, 3 stall fans (each having their own on/off switches) Aisle light, light for each individual stall, outside lights, feed/tack room lights. Sub panel installed in the tack room. Each light has it's own switch so I can have any combo of lights that I want on. I got an amazing shop style led light for the alley way and the tack room. Those suckers are bright and I hardly ever use any of the other lights. I hired an electrician to come out after and do the hook up. I don't mind doing all the manual labor but dealing with the live main panel on the house scares me!! All in (includes all the light fixtures and fans) I have right at $2000 in the electricity....which is less than the electric company was going to charge me for just the pole.
3. Flooring - I made trips to the local cement place and they would fill my truck up for $10 with crushed stone. I'm happy with that decision. I put mats over it in the stalls. I also drilled some 3/8" holes in the mats in the spots that my gelding likes to pee so it drains down through the gravel and away.
Permits - I live in the country, no permits needed here.
How did the electricians put his stamp on it .. if the barn burns down due to faulty wiring etc? or in your area it doesnt need to pass inspection? my one farm was 54 acreas in florida and i still needed permits . maybe states do it differantly..
I'm guessing states do it different or even counties within a state. For example, I recently lived in Howard County and am now in Cooper County in MO. If you live outside of city limits there are no codes or permits need to remodel your house or build anything. Cooper and Howard both touch Boone County, which I also lived in a number of years ago. The entire county of Boone has building codes. However if you are outside of city limits you don't have to pull permits or get approvals, but you must build to code. we always have electric done by a licensed electrician because we feel that if we ever have to make a claim on insurance we don't want to give them the loop hole that we did it ourselves and we aren't licensed. |
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Industrial Srength Barrel Racer
Posts: 7264
     
| On the water part, I have gotten 2 estimates to run water from my well - BOTH were in the $2000 range - this is JUST to T off the well, trench and run the lines - I think it's about 500'. Here in Kansas, the wintertime usually poses a HUGE issue for me filling tanks because I have to hook 3-4 hoses together and drag them out to the tanks, then I have to unhook the hoses and TOTALLY drain them or they will freeze up and I have to bring them in the house to thaw. I still am dragging hoses because I have never felt $2000 burning a hole in my pocket but this is THE biggest item on my "when I strike it rich" checklist.
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 Poor Cracker Girl
Posts: 12150
      Location: Feeding mosquitos, FL | livinonlove&horses - 2016-03-23 12:06 PM Bibliafarm - 2016-03-23 9:48 AM GraciousLegacy - 2016-03-22 10:35 AM I just built a 24x36 RCA style barn. I did EVERYTHING myself. I have a total around $7000 invested in it. Here is my experience with the questions you asked.
1. Water - I still have several good quality hoses hooked together and ran down the fence line to the barn. I will someday actually install proper water lines but this was on the bottom of my list of must haves.
2. Electricity - I called the electric company they were going to charge me several thousands of dollars to set a pole at the barn so instead I got out the shovels and pic ax and started digging. 250 ft from the house to the barn. Went to a local electric supply warehouse and talked to the manager, explained what I had (took pictures of current box on the house etc) explained what I wanted in the barn and he helped me figure amps, wire sizes etc. Bought all the supplies. I ran all the wires underground and installed 20 electric outlets, 3 stall fans (each having their own on/off switches) Aisle light, light for each individual stall, outside lights, feed/tack room lights. Sub panel installed in the tack room. Each light has it's own switch so I can have any combo of lights that I want on. I got an amazing shop style led light for the alley way and the tack room. Those suckers are bright and I hardly ever use any of the other lights. I hired an electrician to come out after and do the hook up. I don't mind doing all the manual labor but dealing with the live main panel on the house scares me!! All in (includes all the light fixtures and fans) I have right at $2000 in the electricity....which is less than the electric company was going to charge me for just the pole.
3. Flooring - I made trips to the local cement place and they would fill my truck up for $10 with crushed stone. I'm happy with that decision. I put mats over it in the stalls. I also drilled some 3/8" holes in the mats in the spots that my gelding likes to pee so it drains down through the gravel and away.
Permits - I live in the country, no permits needed here.
How did the electricians put his stamp on it .. if the barn burns down due to faulty wiring etc? or in your area it doesnt need to pass inspection? my one farm was 54 acreas in florida and i still needed permits . maybe states do it differantly.. I'm guessing states do it different or even counties within a state. For example, I recently lived in Howard County and am now in Cooper County in MO. If you live outside of city limits there are no codes or permits need to remodel your house or build anything. Cooper and Howard both touch Boone County, which I also lived in a number of years ago. The entire county of Boone has building codes. However if you are outside of city limits you don't have to pull permits or get approvals, but you must build to code. we always have electric done by a licensed electrician because we feel that if we ever have to make a claim on insurance we don't want to give them the loop hole that we did it ourselves and we aren't licensed.
Every county is different. I'm in Florida too but, in my wonderfully rural county, you don't need permits for anything outside of your primary residence.
Depending on where you are (frost concerns and if you are on a well), running water is super easy. Dig a trench, play Tetris with PVC, use enough PVC glue to fill a swimming pool, cover the trench back up. I did it myself in a day with a trencher - ran it probably 200ft with 4 spigots. The hardest part was making sure I had all the right pieces - that required planning. |
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