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What Name?
Posts: 1994
   
| I have access to an ARMORY of bits, because I ride at a huge horsebarn. Marie, the owner, absolutely adores me. ( btw, for those that read my calf post, I finally convinced her it was mercy to put it down!)
Anywho, the woman is filthy rich, and utterly british. So has no concept of telling herself no, no darling not at all! LOL. She buys anything and everything she wants on a wim.
SOOOOOO Seeing as I have very little knowledge of bits, I'm exploring what works best for me and my youngin'. Totally new territory for me!!!
We started in a figure 8 snaffle?? ( this thing)
But one day, noseying around I found one of these ( not this exact one but pretty much it )
My gelding went from stiff necked turns to smooth and gentle turns. Can a roller really change a horses flexibility all that much??
Any other bits I should check out?? She seriously has everything you can think of... My horse is offically ( by his birthdate) 3 in June. Though by paper standards he's of course already 3. He's made a HUGE leap from the horse he was a year ago. He's very soft in his mouth, I've made it a serious point in my riding to use my legs and opposite rein to steer him as much as possible. Of course, as with most young horses, he's still 'getting it' but when I first started riding him we had VERY little steering. Now I can pretty much move him off my leg anywhere I want. Just some times, we get a little muddled.
I'm defintely playing around with this bit thing, since it completely new to me ( never explored this when I was riding my spotted saddle when I was a younger youngin ) so any suggestions or great ideas throw them at me!!!
Edited by americanpride08 2015-03-30 8:27 AM
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Veteran
Posts: 242
Location: Nowhere Land | Im a huge fan of Tom Balding bits, and Mylers. Made to last. The younger horses (i feel) take to the broken mouth piece style bits, the rollers, dog bones etc. I find it protects the bars of the mouth, making it much easier for them to accept the bit instead of evading it. The First bit you have listed reminds me of a Tom Thumb, which (again my opinion only) is a terrible bit with basically zero lift, bend or give. If you are looking to supple (which you should be in a young horse) in my opinion.. the second bit is a much better choice.
Edited by AngieM1 2015-03-27 9:42 AM
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Elite Veteran
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Location: Southern Indiana | Neither of these are good. If the horse is only 3 you should only be using some kind of snaffle whether it be a loose ring or d ring. No shanked bits on colts!!! | |
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 A Somebody to Everybody
Posts: 41354
Location: Under The Big Sky Of Texas | I'm a big fan of the dog bone mouth peice on a young horse, heck I use them on my older horses too. Edit to ad: really love my chain mouth peices too.
Edited by Southtxponygirl 2015-03-27 10:05 AM
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What Name?
Posts: 1994
| AngieM1 - 2015-03-27 9:39 AM Im a huge fan of Tom Balding bits, and Mylers. Made to last. The younger horses (i feel) take to the broken mouth piece style bits, the rollers, dog bones etc. I find it protects the bars of the mouth, making it much easier for them to accept the but instead of evading it. The First bit you have listed reminds me of a Tom Thumb, which (again my opinion only) is a terrible bit with basically zero lift, bend or give. If you are looking to supple (which you should be in a young horse) in my opinion.. the second bit is a much better choice.
I defintely noticed a huge difference in our riding and how he much faster and with less effort he responded to the second bit. The first bit, I honestly would never put him back in. It's what he was started on though. But in Charlies defense, Bug (gelding) was a rough started. He faught every bit of everything at first until it just clicked. But then, with him being my horse, I refuse to get into 'fights' with him. Where as the girl that rode for Charlie before Kate, always wanted to pick a fight with him.
What does the roller do?
Also, I was reading some articles, it was talking about points of contact in the mouth. How younger horses need less?? Is that true?
I feel like my boy is very supple in his mouth and super responsive. I use very little contact and only if my legs and weight dont communicate my needs well enough.
I truly like the second bit. Are there any others that I may like as well?
Right now I'm working on putting a 'spin' on him. We're also just getting into flying lead changes. Nothing super athletic. Just working on our relationship, our simple cues and our understanding of one another. I figured, I have access to all this equipment. I should take advantage of it while I can!!!
Any other 'tools' for young horses I should look into, like I said. This women has an arsenel of horse related tools, props and gear. lol | |
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What Name?
Posts: 1994
| TheDutchMan01 - 2015-03-27 9:46 AM Neither of these are good. If the horse is only 3 you should only be using some kind of snaffle whether it be a loose ring or d ring. No shanked bits on colts!!! Could you perhaps explain this to me? =)
Also, theres a couple of D ring snaffles with the roller that I've ridden him in that I like him in. But there's not much of difference in his response between the D ring and the shank version of the same bit.
just so I make sure I have this right, the D ring is where the reins connect right? and the shank is a long verison of the same thing with no movement allowed of the reins??
Edited by americanpride08 2015-03-27 10:00 AM
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 477
Location: Lost in the swamps | Hate tom thumbs, just about everything I own is a 3 PC or chain,I have only 3 2-PC bits(jr cow, d ring snaffle, and an L&W smooth mouth short shank) all of which have a lot of curve to the mouth PC to reduce a scissor effect which will drive some horses mad!!the only Tom Thumb like bit I have ever not thrown away or sold was the smooth 3 PC dog bone one. Loved that one for just lollygaging. Wish I still had that bit but I sold it with the horse.
Edited by imturnin3 2015-03-27 10:07 AM
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Veteran
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Location: Nowhere Land | @ Dutchman01 Im sorry, disagree. I think every horse progresses differently. Everyone has different hands as well. Not every young horse will need to be in a D ring or O ring snaffle for the same amount of time. Just like toddlers .. not all of them start walking on the same date. 
Edited by AngieM1 2015-03-27 10:02 AM
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The Advice Guru
Posts: 6419
| On the second bit, it is not a roller as per say.
The first bit when you pull on the reins which ever way, the bit collapses and squeezes the tongue, giving the horse the same pressure for all pressure.
The second bit the mouth piece doesn't collapse like the first one, and under the middle bar is like a ball bearing which makes each side independent of the other when you only pull on one side.
I agree with others, the first bit is crap.
Due to the horse being so young, I won't put a shanked bit on a horse till they are broke.
The length of the shanks impacts the pressure on their mouth.
The longer the bottom part (shank) the more leverage you have, so when you are pulling with a finger, you are actually excreting more like three fingers of pressure as compared to a o ring snaffle.
The top part (the purchase) affects the poll pressure, the longer this, the more pressure is applied to their poll.
So with this bit trying to teach a horse to collect is a little harder as the ratio is not a 1:1 it is a 1:2 which means you have more shoulder and head elevation.
With this bit on a young horse you may come into problems later on as used improperly will dull a mouth and when this happens you will need to go up in bit severity, and once you start going up there will come a time nothing will work. | |
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What Name?
Posts: 1994
| cheryl makofka - 2015-03-27 10:08 AM On the second bit, it is not a roller as per say. The first bit when you pull on the reins which ever way, the bit collapses and squeezes the tongue, giving the horse the same pressure for all pressure. The second bit the mouth piece doesn't collapse like the first one, and under the middle bar is like a ball bearing which makes each side independent of the other when you only pull on one side. I agree with others, the first bit is crap. Due to the horse being so young, I won't put a shanked bit on a horse till they are broke. The length of the shanks impacts the pressure on their mouth. The longer the bottom part (shank) the more leverage you have, so when you are pulling with a finger, you are actually excreting more like three fingers of pressure as compared to a o ring snaffle. The top part (the purchase) affects the poll pressure, the longer this, the more pressure is applied to their poll. So with this bit trying to teach a horse to collect is a little harder as the ratio is not a 1:1 it is a 1:2 which means you have more shoulder and head elevation. With this bit on a young horse you may come into problems later on as used improperly will dull a mouth and when this happens you will need to go up in bit severity, and once you start going up there will come a time nothing will work.
Do you have any pictures of bits that you recommend for a younger horse?
Thank you for the information. I'm trying to self educate here. I'm always asking questions, and I'm trying to hard to make sure I set Bug up the right way. There's so much to know!!! He's my first baby, my first quarter horse. So I'm just a much of a beginner as he is. That and, when I did ride ( gaited spotted saddle) he was dead broke, and I had no 'horsey' friends to ride with or around. My family was not very horsey, so everything I know lol it self taught. Which can lead to success or unknown mistakes.
so sincere thanks for any assistance. =) | |
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Expert
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| TheDutchMan01 - 2015-03-27 10:46 AM
Neither of these are good. If the horse is only 3 you should only be using some kind of snaffle whether it be a loose ring or d ring. No shanked bits on colts!!!
Disagree but I'm a futurity person and by the time they are 3 they better be a good broke riding horse and stepping up to some other bits. Staying in a snaffle too long isn't necessarily the best option for some colts. Also, other people will buy and ride our horses and they have different hands then ours so we want to make sure they experience different bits and headgear every now and then so they aren't one of those 7 yr olds that gets and bonnet put on them and freaks and flips over. | |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 883
Location: Southern Indiana | americanpride08 - 2015-03-27 9:57 AM
TheDutchMan01 - 2015-03-27 9:46 AM Neither of these are good. If the horse is only 3 you should only be using some kind of snaffle whether it be a loose ring or d ring. No shanked bits on colts!!! Could you perhaps explain this to me? =)
Also, theres a couple of D ring snaffles with the roller that I've ridden him in that I like him in. But there's not much of difference in his response between the D ring and the shank version of the same bit.
just so I make sure I have this right, the D ring is where the reins connect right? and the shank is a long verison of the same thing with no movement allowed of the reins??
A snaffle is any bit that has a circular "shank" whether that be a ring, a d ring, or an offset d.
I'll do my best to explain it, but it's mostly just the basic way every horse is started. You can to start them out with a bit light as possible and something that the learn by direct contact. A snaffle only works on the bars of the horses mouth. You get them light and responsive in it and to do all the basic maneuvers before advancing them. If the horse stays responsive in a snaffle than there really is no reason to use a bigger bit. However, in barrel racing as you increase speed you may need something with more bend and flex and maybe simply need more whoa. For bend and flex you go to a bit with some gag action which works off of the corners of their mouth, the bars, and their pole. For whoa the more shank, the more pressure it's going to apply. Also any bit with a chin strap is going to add another element of pressure and increase the severity of the action to the bars.
You want to start them in a snaffle so that they learn to give in to the least amount of pressure possible. It's just part of the basic foundation of a horse. In any command you ask with the least amount of pressure and increase the pressure when they don't respond. Also you have to remember as a 2/3 yr old they are still babies. Their mouths are still forming and they are very sensitive. If you start out in a harsh but and toughen their mouth up what happens when they are 5? Or 10 and they have no mouth and you can't find a bit big enough to get a response?
You would start with a smooth mouthpiece and go to a twisted, chain, or even square if needed. I have never used a square mouthpiece. I prefer a small twist or just go up to a bigger bit.
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| americanpride08 - 2015-03-27 10:20 AM
cheryl makofka - 2015-03-27 10:08 AM On the second bit, it is not a roller as per say. The first bit when you pull on the reins which ever way, the bit collapses and squeezes the tongue, giving the horse the same pressure for all pressure. The second bit the mouth piece doesn't collapse like the first one, and under the middle bar is like a ball bearing which makes each side independent of the other when you only pull on one side. I agree with others, the first bit is crap. Due to the horse being so young, I won't put a shanked bit on a horse till they are broke. The length of the shanks impacts the pressure on their mouth. The longer the bottom part (shank) the more leverage you have, so when you are pulling with a finger, you are actually excreting more like three fingers of pressure as compared to a o ring snaffle. The top part (the purchase) affects the poll pressure, the longer this, the more pressure is applied to their poll. So with this bit trying to teach a horse to collect is a little harder as the ratio is not a 1:1 it is a 1:2 which means you have more shoulder and head elevation. With this bit on a young horse you may come into problems later on as used improperly will dull a mouth and when this happens you will need to go up in bit severity, and once you start going up there will come a time nothing will work.
Do you have any pictures of bits that you recommend for a younger horse?
Thank you for the information. I'm trying to self educate here. I'm always asking questions, and I'm trying to hard to make sure I set Bug up the right way. There's so much to know!!! He's my first baby, my first quarter horse. So I'm just a much of a beginner as he is. That and, when I did ride ( gaited spotted saddle) he was dead broke, and I had no 'horsey' friends to ride with or around. My family was not very horsey, so everything I know lol it self taught. Which can lead to success or unknown mistakes.
so sincere thanks for any assistance. =)
Sorry, I can't post pictures, I am computer illiterate.
I start all my horses in a o ring snaffle with a dog bone, a smooth mouth piece is the softest, the more twist, the more severe.
I will move up to a sweet six mouth piece, this has gag action, so it applies poll pressure, I use a lifesaver mouthpiece, this mouthpiece works similar to the dog bone, but they have pressure in the middle of their tongue.
I have just started using a draw gag with a three piece with horses that are a little front end heavy
With these bits, my horse must have the basic reining/working cow handle on them, stop, back up, collect, reverse arcing, turning on haunches, loping nice circles, shoulder control, and very light, mostly leg control.
I will even start my horses on the pattern with either bit, I will move up when I start having issues with shoulder control, rate, body position, etc.
When I move up, I like gag bits as it gives the horse more time to respond, the pressure isn't instant.
I am a fan of the myler number 1 mouth pieces, and I really like the Lynn Mackenzie line of Mylers I can't remember the bit number I use but I think is its a MM3.
I also like Dave Elliott bits, they are pricey but are exceptionally made, the spur up 1 and 2 is what I have one in a Mullen and one in a 3 piece. This gag has a 1:1 ratio when sitting in the mouth so it gives even poll pressure and shank pressure
The Sheri cervi diamond lifter short shank, I use on my patterned almost finished horses when I need a little more rate and flex, this bit is heavy
When I need a lot of rate on my first, due to the horse not rating down or being more of a free runner (I like push) I have went to a Charmayne James grasshopper chain (chain is quite severe as compared to smooth due to all ridges) it has equal ratio, no gag, and the shanks are not swept back much so when I pull I get instant reaction, but I have to release right away or it will hang.
Even if I am using a shanked bit, I will generally ride in a o ring (dutton bits make some nice o ring/draw gag bits, they keep the mouth very moist) at home working on their buttons, getting them nice, light and responsive.
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The Advice Guru
Posts: 6419
| TheDutchMan01 - 2015-03-27 12:28 PM
americanpride08 - 2015-03-27 9:57 AM
TheDutchMan01 - 2015-03-27 9:46 AM Neither of these are good. If the horse is only 3 you should only be using some kind of snaffle whether it be a loose ring or d ring. No shanked bits on colts!!! Could you perhaps explain this to me? =)
Also, theres a couple of D ring snaffles with the roller that I've ridden him in that I like him in. But there's not much of difference in his response between the D ring and the shank version of the same bit.
just so I make sure I have this right, the D ring is where the reins connect right? and the shank is a long verison of the same thing with no movement allowed of the reins??
A snaffle is any bit that has a circular "shank" whether that be a ring, a d ring, or an offset d.
I'll do my best to explain it, but it's mostly just the basic way every horse is started. You can to start them out with a bit light as possible and something that the learn by direct contact. A snaffle only works on the bars of the horses mouth. You get them light and responsive in it and to do all the basic maneuvers before advancing them. If the horse stays responsive in a snaffle than there really is no reason to use a bigger bit. However, in barrel racing as you increase speed you may need something with more bend and flex and maybe simply need more whoa. For bend and flex you go to a bit with some gag action which works off of the corners of their mouth, the bars, and their pole. For whoa the more shank, the more pressure it's going to apply. Also any bit with a chin strap is going to add another element of pressure and increase the severity of the action to the bars.
You want to start them in a snaffle so that they learn to give in to the least amount of pressure possible. It's just part of the basic foundation of a horse. In any command you ask with the least amount of pressure and increase the pressure when they don't respond. Also you have to remember as a 2/3 yr old they are still babies. Their mouths are still forming and they are very sensitive. If you start out in a harsh but and toughen their mouth up what happens when they are 5? Or 10 and they have no mouth and you can't find a bit big enough to get a response?
You would start with a smooth mouthpiece and go to a twisted, chain, or even square if needed. I have never used a square mouthpiece. I prefer a small twist or just go up to a bigger bit.
Actually a snaffle works differently depending on the mouth piece you have.
A broken snaffle works on the lips, bars, and the tongue
Myler has some snaffles that have mouthpieces (ported) that only work on the lips and bars and give tongue relief.
To the op to learn about bits get the info from professional resources yourself
Dave Elliott puts on bitting clinics
Mylers put on bitting clinics, and also have a great book describing the anatomy of the mouth and how their bits work
Les Vogt has YouTube videos explaining the mouthpieces smooth versus chain and the difference in severity
I know there are many more and I just can't think of them
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 Expert
Posts: 3782
Location: Gainesville, TX | While all horses move into shanked bits at different times, I do think a good point was made about starting in an o-ring or d-ring. However it sounds like the OP wants the very basic basics. No one has really answered that yet so I'll try.
First of all anything placed on the head of a horse puts pressure on it. The places where that pressure can be exerted are on the nose (nose piece, halter, hackamore, side pull), the corners of the mouth (all bits and most especially gags), the tongue (again all bits), the roof of the mouth (ported bits and two piece snaffles), the bars (open gum area between the front and back teeth which all bits will sit on--obviously affected by any actual bit), the chin (affected by a curb strap--not all bits have these or make contact so it may not be a point of contact), and the poll (or top of the head, which shanked bits, hacks, and gag bits affect).
With a young horse, the general rule of thumb is the fewer places that are touched and affected by a bit or head piece the better. Its confusing enough to get used to the saddle, a rider, and being told to go places. If you are being told to do things in 6 different ways instead of 2 its even more confusing. A smart young horse will eventually figure it all out in any bit but they learn faster and usually fight you less if they are told in 2 ways instead of 6. Many young horses are started in a rope halter or bosal for this reason. They are already halter broke and know to turn, stop, or back up based on nose pressure so this makes sense to them. What's the best things about a simple o ring or d rings with a two or three piece mouth (no port--raised portion), is that it still operates on direct rein pressure. If you pull right, they go right. There are also fewer points of contact. A basic o ring or d ring operates on the corner of the mouth, a bit on the tongue, and the bars of the mouth. Some people add a curb strap under the chin but loosely, just to keep the bit from being pulled through a young horse's mouth. After they are used to this basic direct pressure, then people will add the curb strap tighter so you also add a new pressure point on the chin. Eventually people work up to some kind of shanked bit like the two you show and this adds pressure to the top of the head. Then they may choose to have a ported or raised mouthpiece which adds further pressure to the roof of the mouth. As they progress and need less and less direction from you they can move into more and more pressure points.
Its really a lot like math. You need to learn how to add and subtract before you multiply and divide.
Edited by oija 2015-03-27 12:42 PM
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 883
Location: Southern Indiana | astreakinchic - 2015-03-27 11:07 AM TheDutchMan01 - 2015-03-27 10:46 AM Neither of these are good. If the horse is only 3 you should only be using some kind of snaffle whether it be a loose ring or d ring. No shanked bits on colts!!! Disagree but I'm a futurity person and by the time they are 3 they better be a good broke riding horse and stepping up to some other bits. Staying in a snaffle too long isn't necessarily the best option for some colts. Also, other people will buy and ride our horses and they have different hands then ours so we want to make sure they experience different bits and headgear every now and then so they aren't one of those 7 yr olds that gets and bonnet put on them and freaks and flips over.
Futurity horses are different and when you have deadline to make their training gets put on fast forward. I totally agree that once you start patterning them, most of them are going to have to go to a bigger bit but I would have to go through many lighter ones before I put a 7" locked shank bit on one. I have no issue moving one up when they are further in their training, but a coming 3 yr old is too young for such a harsh bit. When you are building a foundation on a young horse a snaffle is the starting point. | |
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Expert
Posts: 1611
| TheDutchMan01 - 2015-03-27 1:41 PM
astreakinchic - 2015-03-27 11:07 AM TheDutchMan01 - 2015-03-27 10:46 AM Neither of these are good. If the horse is only 3 you should only be using some kind of snaffle whether it be a loose ring or d ring. No shanked bits on colts!!! Disagree but I'm a futurity person and by the time they are 3 they better be a good broke riding horse and stepping up to some other bits. Staying in a snaffle too long isn't necessarily the best option for some colts. Also, other people will buy and ride our horses and they have different hands then ours so we want to make sure they experience different bits and headgear every now and then so they aren't one of those 7 yr olds that gets and bonnet put on them and freaks and flips over.
I think we are on the same page | |
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What Name?
Posts: 1994
| cheryl makofka - 2015-03-27 12:34 PM americanpride08 - 2015-03-27 10:20 AM cheryl makofka - 2015-03-27 10:08 AM On the second bit, it is not a roller as per say. The first bit when you pull on the reins which ever way, the bit collapses and squeezes the tongue, giving the horse the same pressure for all pressure. The second bit the mouth piece doesn't collapse like the first one, and under the middle bar is like a ball bearing which makes each side independent of the other when you only pull on one side. I agree with others, the first bit is crap. Due to the horse being so young, I won't put a shanked bit on a horse till they are broke. The length of the shanks impacts the pressure on their mouth. The longer the bottom part (shank) the more leverage you have, so when you are pulling with a finger, you are actually excreting more like three fingers of pressure as compared to a o ring snaffle. The top part (the purchase) affects the poll pressure, the longer this, the more pressure is applied to their poll. So with this bit trying to teach a horse to collect is a little harder as the ratio is not a 1:1 it is a 1:2 which means you have more shoulder and head elevation. With this bit on a young horse you may come into problems later on as used improperly will dull a mouth and when this happens you will need to go up in bit severity, and once you start going up there will come a time nothing will work. Do you have any pictures of bits that you recommend for a younger horse?
Thank you for the information. I'm trying to self educate here. I'm always asking questions, and I'm trying to hard to make sure I set Bug up the right way. There's so much to know!!! He's my first baby, my first quarter horse. So I'm just a much of a beginner as he is. That and, when I did ride ( gaited spotted saddle) he was dead broke, and I had no 'horsey' friends to ride with or around. My family was not very horsey, so everything I know lol it self taught. Which can lead to success or unknown mistakes.
so sincere thanks for any assistance. =) Sorry, I can't post pictures, I am computer illiterate. I start all my horses in a o ring snaffle with a dog bone, a smooth mouth piece is the softest, the more twist, the more severe. I will move up to a sweet six mouth piece, this has gag action, so it applies poll pressure, I use a lifesaver mouthpiece, this mouthpiece works similar to the dog bone, but they have pressure in the middle of their tongue. I have just started using a draw gag with a three piece with horses that are a little front end heavy With these bits, my horse must have the basic reining/working cow handle on them, stop, back up, collect, reverse arcing, turning on haunches, loping nice circles, shoulder control, and very light, mostly leg control. I will even start my horses on the pattern with either bit, I will move up when I start having issues with shoulder control, rate, body position, etc. When I move up, I like gag bits as it gives the horse more time to respond, the pressure isn't instant. I am a fan of the myler number 1 mouth pieces, and I really like the Lynn Mackenzie line of Mylers I can't remember the bit number I use but I think is its a MM3. I also like Dave Elliott bits, they are pricey but are exceptionally made, the spur up 1 and 2 is what I have one in a Mullen and one in a 3 piece. This gag has a 1:1 ratio when sitting in the mouth so it gives even poll pressure and shank pressure The Sheri cervi diamond lifter short shank, I use on my patterned almost finished horses when I need a little more rate and flex, this bit is heavy When I need a lot of rate on my first, due to the horse not rating down or being more of a free runner (I like push ) I have went to a Charmayne James grasshopper chain (chain is quite severe as compared to smooth due to all ridges ) it has equal ratio, no gag, and the shanks are not swept back much so when I pull I get instant reaction, but I have to release right away or it will hang. Even if I am using a shanked bit, I will generally ride in a o ring (dutton bits make some nice o ring/draw gag bits, they keep the mouth very moist ) at home working on their buttons, getting them nice, light and responsive.
or should I go ahead and skip to a bit more like this?? Lol if these are even what you talking about. I may not be understanding 100%
ETA:: What about this bit for a young horse? Like I said, he's very light in the mouth. And I'm not a heavy handed rider at all.
Edited by americanpride08 2015-03-27 12:56 PM
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Expert
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Location: Gainesville, TX | americanpride08 - 2015-03-27 12:51 PM
cheryl makofka - 2015-03-27 12:34 PM americanpride08 - 2015-03-27 10:20 AM cheryl makofka - 2015-03-27 10:08 AM On the second bit, it is not a roller as per say. The first bit when you pull on the reins which ever way, the bit collapses and squeezes the tongue, giving the horse the same pressure for all pressure. The second bit the mouth piece doesn't collapse like the first one, and under the middle bar is like a ball bearing which makes each side independent of the other when you only pull on one side. I agree with others, the first bit is crap. Due to the horse being so young, I won't put a shanked bit on a horse till they are broke. The length of the shanks impacts the pressure on their mouth. The longer the bottom part (shank) the more leverage you have, so when you are pulling with a finger, you are actually excreting more like three fingers of pressure as compared to a o ring snaffle. The top part (the purchase) affects the poll pressure, the longer this, the more pressure is applied to their poll. So with this bit trying to teach a horse to collect is a little harder as the ratio is not a 1:1 it is a 1:2 which means you have more shoulder and head elevation. With this bit on a young horse you may come into problems later on as used improperly will dull a mouth and when this happens you will need to go up in bit severity, and once you start going up there will come a time nothing will work. Do you have any pictures of bits that you recommend for a younger horse?
Thank you for the information. I'm trying to self educate here. I'm always asking questions, and I'm trying to hard to make sure I set Bug up the right way. There's so much to know!!! He's my first baby, my first quarter horse. So I'm just a much of a beginner as he is. That and, when I did ride ( gaited spotted saddle) he was dead broke, and I had no 'horsey' friends to ride with or around. My family was not very horsey, so everything I know lol it self taught. Which can lead to success or unknown mistakes.
so sincere thanks for any assistance. =) Sorry, I can't post pictures, I am computer illiterate. I start all my horses in a o ring snaffle with a dog bone, a smooth mouth piece is the softest, the more twist, the more severe. I will move up to a sweet six mouth piece, this has gag action, so it applies poll pressure, I use a lifesaver mouthpiece, this mouthpiece works similar to the dog bone, but they have pressure in the middle of their tongue. I have just started using a draw gag with a three piece with horses that are a little front end heavy With these bits, my horse must have the basic reining/working cow handle on them, stop, back up, collect, reverse arcing, turning on haunches, loping nice circles, shoulder control, and very light, mostly leg control. I will even start my horses on the pattern with either bit, I will move up when I start having issues with shoulder control, rate, body position, etc. When I move up, I like gag bits as it gives the horse more time to respond, the pressure isn't instant. I am a fan of the myler number 1 mouth pieces, and I really like the Lynn Mackenzie line of Mylers I can't remember the bit number I use but I think is its a MM3. I also like Dave Elliott bits, they are pricey but are exceptionally made, the spur up 1 and 2 is what I have one in a Mullen and one in a 3 piece. This gag has a 1:1 ratio when sitting in the mouth so it gives even poll pressure and shank pressure The Sheri cervi diamond lifter short shank, I use on my patterned almost finished horses when I need a little more rate and flex, this bit is heavy When I need a lot of rate on my first, due to the horse not rating down or being more of a free runner (I like push ) I have went to a Charmayne James grasshopper chain (chain is quite severe as compared to smooth due to all ridges ) it has equal ratio, no gag, and the shanks are not swept back much so when I pull I get instant reaction, but I have to release right away or it will hang. Even if I am using a shanked bit, I will generally ride in a o ring (dutton bits make some nice o ring/draw gag bits, they keep the mouth very moist ) at home working on their buttons, getting them nice, light and responsive.
or should I go ahead and skip to a bit more like this?? Lol if these are even what you talking about. I may not be understanding 100%
The first one yes. The second one is a step up bit because it has a gag action and will act harder on the sides of the cheeks and poll (top of the head). The first one is still just direct rein. | |
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