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 Elite Veteran
Posts: 680
  
Location: Texas | Does anyone have any suggestions for cleaning caked on dust out of floral tooling on a saddle? I bought this saddle a few months ago and got a steal of a deal on it because it had just been sitting collecting dust. I've tried cleaning it using regular saddle soap and oil but it's still pretty caked in the tooling. Any suggestions? |
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 Undercover Amish Mafia Member
Posts: 9992
 
Location: Kansas | Saddle soap and an old toothbrush. |
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 Expert
Posts: 3815
Location: The best kept secret in TX | hoofs_in_motion - 2016-03-25 4:41 PM Saddle soap and an old toothbrush.
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 Life Saver
Posts: 10477
Location: MT | hoofs_in_motion - 2016-03-25 3:41 PM Saddle soap and an old toothbrush.
This! |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 680
Location: Texas | Thanks everyone! I'll give that a try :) |
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| Don't use saddle soap ever ever .... it does not nourish your leather just seals the tooled side ... it was made for pig skin English saddles ...
No scrubbing ... you will damage your tooling and the sealing oil your saddle maker used ..
Soak every part you can reach with LEXOL including the undersides to return oils to the leather .... sop it on the tooling by patting and squishing to lift the dust that is now mud out of the cuts on the pattern. Let it rest for 24 hours ... Then Buff lightly with an old tshirt to remove excess and make it shine ...
Repeat after riding it for 2 weeks and repeat again if needed ...
Do not use any leather conditioners on rawhide ... it will loosen it and create a rough surface (rawhide is untanned leather)
It is a little work .. but saddle will come out looking new instead of abused ..
GOOD LUCK
Edited by BARRELHORSE USA 2016-03-26 1:38 AM
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  Fact Checker
Posts: 16575
Location: Displaced Iowegian | BARRELHORSE USA - 2016-03-26 1:35 AM Don't use saddle soap ever ever .... it does not nourish your leather just seals the tooled side ... it was made for pig skin English saddles ... No scrubbing ... you will damage your tooling and the sealing oil your saddle maker used .. Soak every part you can reach with LEXOL including the undersides to return oils to the leather .... sop it on the tooling by patting and squishing to lift the dust that is now mud out of the cuts on the pattern. Let it rest for 24 hours ... Then Buff lightly with an old tshirt to remove excess and make it shine ... Repeat after riding it for 2 weeks and repeat again if needed ... Do not use any leather conditioners on rawhide ... it will loosen it and create a rough surface (rawhide is untanned leather) It is a little work .. but saddle will come out looking new instead of abused .. GOOD LUCK
I try to never post on yours but....you are just so full of BS....and since you are neither a saddle maker, leather worker or anything that matters, you are OFF BASE......Using a toothbrush (scrubbing in the cracks) to get the soften dirt (mud) out is the ONLY way to go....In your warped theory, you can not just "rub" or "sop" the mud out of the cracks of tooling unless it is a very cheap saddle with light tooling or is "embossed"....... I do agree that you can use Lexol instead of saddle soap...... there is nothing wrong with saddle soap other than it wil dry out the leather somewhat. Additionally, after cleaning any saddle, a person needs to use a good conditioner. My husband (40+ years as a saddlemaker) recommends Black Rock but there are several very good products on the market. If you use neatsfoot oil.....make sure that is is "pure" and not compounded. |
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 Elite Veteran
Posts: 1035
Location: TN | On Thursday I saw some great info on Facebook by Dennis Moreland on cleaning tack (it's on his fb page if you want to read it). He says use saddle soap and then follow up with a conditioner like Neatsfoot oil. He doesn't like products like Lexol conditioner because they leave a film on the leather. I'm personally interested in trying Black Rock as a conditioner. |
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 Shoot Yeah
Posts: 4273
Location: Where you need a paddle... Oregon! | I use a toothbrush, and have even used a toothpick in the really deep tooling to get out dirt or soaps that were previously used and not cleaned out. It's tedious, but it gets in there. |
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| NJJ - 2016-03-26 8:16 AM
BARRELHORSE USA - 2016-03-26 1:35 AM Don't use saddle soap ever ever .... it does not nourish your leather just seals the tooled side ... it was made for pig skin English saddles ... No scrubbing ... you will damage your tooling and the sealing oil your saddle maker used .. Soak every part you can reach with LEXOL including the undersides to return oils to the leather .... sop it on the tooling by patting and squishing to lift the dust that is now mud out of the cuts on the pattern. Let it rest for 24 hours ... Then Buff lightly with an old tshirt to remove excess and make it shine ... Repeat after riding it for 2 weeks and repeat again if needed ... Do not use any leather conditioners on rawhide ... it will loosen it and create a rough surface (rawhide is untanned leather) It is a little work .. but saddle will come out looking new instead of abused .. GOOD LUCK
I try to never post on yours but....you are just so full of BS....and since you are neither a saddle maker, leather worker or anything that matters, you are OFF BASE......Using a toothbrush (scrubbing in the cracks) to get the soften dirt (mud) out is the ONLY way to go....In your warped theory, you can not just "rub" or "sop" the mud out of the cracks of tooling unless it is a very cheap saddle with light tooling or is "embossed"....... I do agree that you can use Lexol instead of saddle soap...... there is nothing wrong with saddle soap other than it wil dry out the leather somewhat. Additionally, after cleaning any saddle, a person needs to use a good conditioner. My husband (40+ years as a saddlemaker) recommends Black Rock but there are several very good products on the market. If you use neatsfoot oil.....make sure that is is "pure" and not compounded.
Oh Lordy .. always good to hear from you and your tacky remarks ...
BUT GLAD YOU AGREED WITH ME ... hehheee
YEP .. THAT IS THE REASON NOT TO USE SADDLE SOAP IT DRYS THE
LEATHER OUT ... it sucks all the oils and moisture out of leather that
keeps it strong.
And a toothbrush will destroy the surface protection the saddle make
r applied to his hours of hard work.
You failed to mention that 100% neatsfoot oil will darken the
leather and change the color of light colored leathers. The prime
use for 100% neatsfoot oil has been for harness leather on
draft horses harness' to protect the leather from salt and
moisture due to sweating horses.
It is good for reins, breastcollars and rear cinchas and anything
that gets sweated on..... If you use it on fenders, skirts or
saddle seats ... hope you enjoy the oily residue you get on your pants.
I had to grin at using Black Rock .. it is another one of these made
in the garage magic leather cures made from buying bulk car wax
with carnauba wax in it and filling up your own little jars and
marking up the price 1000% for a nice profit margin..... Carnauba
wax is made to put on metal or fiberglass car and boat exteriors ...
it has no beneficial oils to re-moisturize leather .. it is made to seal
the surface on a hard surface for a few months per application.
LANOLIN is the best leather conditioner to apply to any tanned
or colored leather products ... look for the brand of conditioner
that has the most lanolin in it with no petroleum product add-ins.
If you want to really take care of your saddle and the leather
interior of your cars and trucks ... use Pinnacle Leather care
products. It is expensive but worth the money spent.
I have used this on the leather seats in my classic 1991 corvette
since it was new .. and not one sign of wear on the leather seat
bolsters which are a nightmare to keep unmarred on a vette.
My baby is 25 years old and is in pristine condition with only
42,000 miles (and it has never been rained on)!!
lol
Here are a couple of links that are informational on leather care
that everyone should know and not depend on hearsay ....
http://www.pinnaclewax.com/leatcon.html
http://www.pinnaclewax.com/pin410.html
I have never figured out why some people on BHW are so hostile
towards others and they never have any real facts to backup
their caustic remarks. If you have read my posts .... I think
you know that I will kill you with facts and more than you
ever wanted to know about the subject under discussion ..
EVERYONE HAVE A HAPPY EASTER AND ASK GOD TO BLESS THE USA!!
Edited by BARRELHORSE USA 2016-03-26 2:05 PM
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Fact Checker
Posts: 16575
Location: Displaced Iowegian | BARRELHORSE USA - 2016-03-26 2:01 PM NJJ - 2016-03-26 8:16 AM BARRELHORSE USA - 2016-03-26 1:35 AM Don't use saddle soap ever ever .... it does not nourish your leather just seals the tooled side ... it was made for pig skin English saddles ... No scrubbing ... you will damage your tooling and the sealing oil your saddle maker used .. Soak every part you can reach with LEXOL including the undersides to return oils to the leather .... sop it on the tooling by patting and squishing to lift the dust that is now mud out of the cuts on the pattern. Let it rest for 24 hours ... Then Buff lightly with an old tshirt to remove excess and make it shine ... Repeat after riding it for 2 weeks and repeat again if needed ... Do not use any leather conditioners on rawhide ... it will loosen it and create a rough surface (rawhide is untanned leather) It is a little work .. but saddle will come out looking new instead of abused .. GOOD LUCK I try to never post on yours but....you are just so full of BS....and since you are neither a saddle maker, leather worker or anything that matters, you are OFF BASE......Using a toothbrush (scrubbing in the cracks) to get the soften dirt (mud) out is the ONLY way to go....In your warped theory, you can not just "rub" or "sop" the mud out of the cracks of tooling unless it is a very cheap saddle with light tooling or is "embossed"....... I do agree that you can use Lexol instead of saddle soap...... there is nothing wrong with saddle soap other than it wil dry out the leather somewhat. Additionally, after cleaning any saddle, a person needs to use a good conditioner. My husband (40+ years as a saddlemaker) recommends Black Rock but there are several very good products on the market. If you use neatsfoot oil.....make sure that is is "pure" and not compounded. Oh Lordy .. always good to hear from you and your tacky remarks ... BUT GLAD YOU AGREED WITH ME ... hehheee YEP .. THAT IS THE REASON NOT TO USE SADDLE SOAP IT DRYS THE LEATHER OUT ... it sucks all the oils and moisture out of leather that keeps it strong. And a toothbrush will destroy the surface protection the saddle make r applied to his hours of hard work. You failed to mention that 100% neatsfoot oil will darken the leather and change the color of light colored leathers. The prime use for 100% neatsfoot oil has been for harness leather on draft horses harness' to protect the leather from salt and moisture due to sweating horses. It is good for reins, breastcollars and rear cinchas and anything that gets sweated on..... If you use it on fenders, skirts or saddle seats ... hope you enjoy the oily residue you get on your pants. I had to grin at using Black Rock .. it is another one of these made in the garage magic leather cures made from buying bulk car wax with carnauba wax in it and filling up your own little jars and marking up the price 1000% for a nice profit margin..... Carnauba wax is made to put on metal or fiberglass car and boat exteriors ... it has no beneficial oils to re-moisturize leather .. it is made to seal the surface on a hard surface for a few months per application. LANOLIN is the best leather conditioner to apply to any tanned or colored leather products ... look for the brand of conditioner that has the most lanolin in it with no petroleum product add-ins. If you want to really take care of your saddle and the leather interior of your cars and trucks ... use Pinnacle Leather care products. It is expensive but worth the money spent. I have used this on the leather seats in my classic 1991 corvette since it was new .. and not one sign of wear on the leather seat bolsters which are a nightmare to keep unmarred on a vette. My baby is 25 years old and is in pristine condition with only 42,000 miles (and it has never been rained on )!! lol Here are a couple of links that are informational on leather care that everyone should know and not depend on hearsay .... http://www.pinnaclewax.com/leatcon.html http://www.pinnaclewax.com/pin410.html... I have never figured out why some people on BHW are so hostile towards others and they never have any real facts to backup their caustic remarks. If you have read my posts .... I think you know that I will kill you with facts and more than you ever wanted to know about the subject under discussion .. EVERYONE HAVE A HAPPY EASTER AND ASK GOD TO BLESS THE USA!!
Yep...you can sure kill with "GOOGLE" facts....but it doesn't make you any smarter. I will take the experience and knowledge from someone who ACTUALLY works with leather and leather products for over 40+ years....but you carry on .....now in your own little world! |
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| NJJ - 2016-03-26 2:07 PM
BARRELHORSE USA - 2016-03-26 2:01 PM NJJ - 2016-03-26 8:16 AM BARRELHORSE USA - 2016-03-26 1:35 AM Don't use saddle soap ever ever .... it does not nourish your leather just seals the tooled side ... it was made for pig skin English saddles ... No scrubbing ... you will damage your tooling and the sealing oil your saddle maker used .. Soak every part you can reach with LEXOL including the undersides to return oils to the leather .... sop it on the tooling by patting and squishing to lift the dust that is now mud out of the cuts on the pattern. Let it rest for 24 hours ... Then Buff lightly with an old tshirt to remove excess and make it shine ... Repeat after riding it for 2 weeks and repeat again if needed ... Do not use any leather conditioners on rawhide ... it will loosen it and create a rough surface (rawhide is untanned leather) It is a little work .. but saddle will come out looking new instead of abused .. GOOD LUCK I try to never post on yours but....you are just so full of BS....and since you are neither a saddle maker, leather worker or anything that matters, you are OFF BASE......Using a toothbrush (scrubbing in the cracks) to get the soften dirt (mud) out is the ONLY way to go....In your warped theory, you can not just "rub" or "sop" the mud out of the cracks of tooling unless it is a very cheap saddle with light tooling or is "embossed"....... I do agree that you can use Lexol instead of saddle soap...... there is nothing wrong with saddle soap other than it wil dry out the leather somewhat. Additionally, after cleaning any saddle, a person needs to use a good conditioner. My husband (40+ years as a saddlemaker) recommends Black Rock but there are several very good products on the market. If you use neatsfoot oil.....make sure that is is "pure" and not compounded. Oh Lordy .. always good to hear from you and your tacky remarks ... BUT GLAD YOU AGREED WITH ME ... hehheee YEP .. THAT IS THE REASON NOT TO USE SADDLE SOAP IT DRYS THE LEATHER OUT ... it sucks all the oils and moisture out of leather that keeps it strong. And a toothbrush will destroy the surface protection the saddle make r applied to his hours of hard work. You failed to mention that 100% neatsfoot oil will darken the leather and change the color of light colored leathers. The prime use for 100% neatsfoot oil has been for harness leather on draft horses harness' to protect the leather from salt and moisture due to sweating horses. It is good for reins, breastcollars and rear cinchas and anything that gets sweated on..... If you use it on fenders, skirts or saddle seats ... hope you enjoy the oily residue you get on your pants. I had to grin at using Black Rock .. it is another one of these made in the garage magic leather cures made from buying bulk car wax with carnauba wax in it and filling up your own little jars and marking up the price 1000% for a nice profit margin..... Carnauba wax is made to put on metal or fiberglass car and boat exteriors ... it has no beneficial oils to re-moisturize leather .. it is made to seal the surface on a hard surface for a few months per application. LANOLIN is the best leather conditioner to apply to any tanned or colored leather products ... look for the brand of conditioner that has the most lanolin in it with no petroleum product add-ins. If you want to really take care of your saddle and the leather interior of your cars and trucks ... use Pinnacle Leather care products. It is expensive but worth the money spent. I have used this on the leather seats in my classic 1991 corvette since it was new .. and not one sign of wear on the leather seat bolsters which are a nightmare to keep unmarred on a vette. My baby is 25 years old and is in pristine condition with only 42,000 miles (and it has never been rained on )!! lol Here are a couple of links that are informational on leather care that everyone should know and not depend on hearsay .... http://www.pinnaclewax.com/leatcon.html http://www.pinnaclewax.com/pin410.html... I have never figured out why some people on BHW are so hostile towards others and they never have any real facts to backup their caustic remarks. If you have read my posts .... I think you know that I will kill you with facts and more than you ever wanted to know about the subject under discussion .. EVERYONE HAVE A HAPPY EASTER AND ASK GOD TO BLESS THE USA!!
Thank you for the intelligent remarks as usual ..
Yes, my little world is a happy world and I enjoy living in it ..
FYI: I am a retired engineering manager with a degree in Physics
and a minor in chemistry ... so I do look carefully at all product
ingredients before using them on things I own.
I was also born into a ranching family and value all of the experiences
I have had and learned from others to take care of livestock and
equipment for many years and not having to always buy new gear.
When you have something of value to add to a conversation ...
I will listen but otherwise ...................... >>>>>>>
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 1131
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 747
| Have you tried to use an air compressor to blow the dust out? When I clean mine, I like to flow as much of the dust off as I can with the air hose, then clean it if need be.. Then I always finish it off with a conditioner/oil. I clean mine regularly enough that I can brush it off with a soft horse brush, then blow it off with the air hose, then condition it and it looks great! |
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Elite Veteran
Posts: 680
Location: Texas | Burn n' Turn - 2016-03-27 7:37 PM
Have you tried to use an air compressor to blow the dust out? When I clean mine, I like to flow as much of the dust off as I can with the air hose, then clean it if need be.. Then I always finish it off with a conditioner/oil. I clean mine regularly enough that I can brush it off with a soft horse brush, then blow it off with the air hose, then condition it and it looks great!
I have not tried that, I will give it a shot! I got most of the easy, superficial dust off it the first time I tried cleaning it. Now it is just the stuff packed down into the crevices! Yuck! |
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 Texas Tenderheart
Posts: 6715
Location: Red Raiderland | You can wash a saddle down with a water hose and let it dry in the shade and then use whatever oil you prefer. I have Caldwells and this is what they recommend for cleaning their saddles. I use their Miracle Juice and Black Rock for the elk seats. |
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Extreme Veteran
Posts: 448
Location: lone star state | Leather CPR is a lanolin based cleaner/conditioner that I have found works really well. |
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 Own It and Move On
Location: The edge of no where | Kaycee - 2016-03-28 1:04 PM You can wash a saddle down with a water hose and let it dry in the shade and then use whatever oil you prefer. I have Caldwells and this is what they recommend for cleaning their saddles. I use their Miracle Juice and Black Rock for the elk seats.
I had a horribly caked one that I resorted to scrubbing with a brush and rinsing with a water hose ( I had to SCRUB it)......I did oil that thing repeatedly for a few days afterwards. Turned out looking just like new. It's not something I would do weekly - but once or twice isn't going to hurt anything. Just use a good conditioner afterward. |
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Veteran
Posts: 127
Location: Nebraska | Brush what dust you can off. Then use saddle soap (I prefer Leather New brand), and a saddle sponge, and scrub the tooling with a toothbrush.
DO NOT simply use a sponge- otherwise the saddle soap will get into the toolings and leave white marks. Toothbrush is the way to go. |
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Undercover Amish Mafia Member
Posts: 9992
Location: Kansas | BARRELHORSE USA - 2016-03-26 2:01 PM NJJ - 2016-03-26 8:16 AM BARRELHORSE USA - 2016-03-26 1:35 AM Don't use saddle soap ever ever .... it does not nourish your leather just seals the tooled side ... it was made for pig skin English saddles ... No scrubbing ... you will damage your tooling and the sealing oil your saddle maker used .. Soak every part you can reach with LEXOL including the undersides to return oils to the leather .... sop it on the tooling by patting and squishing to lift the dust that is now mud out of the cuts on the pattern. Let it rest for 24 hours ... Then Buff lightly with an old tshirt to remove excess and make it shine ... Repeat after riding it for 2 weeks and repeat again if needed ... Do not use any leather conditioners on rawhide ... it will loosen it and create a rough surface (rawhide is untanned leather) It is a little work .. but saddle will come out looking new instead of abused .. GOOD LUCK I try to never post on yours but....you are just so full of BS....and since you are neither a saddle maker, leather worker or anything that matters, you are OFF BASE......Using a toothbrush (scrubbing in the cracks) to get the soften dirt (mud) out is the ONLY way to go....In your warped theory, you can not just "rub" or "sop" the mud out of the cracks of tooling unless it is a very cheap saddle with light tooling or is "embossed"....... I do agree that you can use Lexol instead of saddle soap...... there is nothing wrong with saddle soap other than it wil dry out the leather somewhat. Additionally, after cleaning any saddle, a person needs to use a good conditioner. My husband (40+ years as a saddlemaker) recommends Black Rock but there are several very good products on the market. If you use neatsfoot oil.....make sure that is is "pure" and not compounded. Oh Lordy .. always good to hear from you and your tacky remarks ... BUT GLAD YOU AGREED WITH ME ... hehheee YEP .. THAT IS THE REASON NOT TO USE SADDLE SOAP IT DRYS THE LEATHER OUT ... it sucks all the oils and moisture out of leather that keeps it strong. And a toothbrush will destroy the surface protection the saddle make r applied to his hours of hard work. You failed to mention that 100% neatsfoot oil will darken the leather and change the color of light colored leathers. The prime use for 100% neatsfoot oil has been for harness leather on draft horses harness' to protect the leather from salt and moisture due to sweating horses. It is good for reins, breastcollars and rear cinchas and anything that gets sweated on..... If you use it on fenders, skirts or saddle seats ... hope you enjoy the oily residue you get on your pants. I had to grin at using Black Rock .. it is another one of these made in the garage magic leather cures made from buying bulk car wax with carnauba wax in it and filling up your own little jars and marking up the price 1000% for a nice profit margin..... Carnauba wax is made to put on metal or fiberglass car and boat exteriors ... it has no beneficial oils to re-moisturize leather .. it is made to seal the surface on a hard surface for a few months per application. LANOLIN is the best leather conditioner to apply to any tanned or colored leather products ... look for the brand of conditioner that has the most lanolin in it with no petroleum product add-ins. If you want to really take care of your saddle and the leather interior of your cars and trucks ... use Pinnacle Leather care products. It is expensive but worth the money spent. I have used this on the leather seats in my classic 1991 corvette since it was new .. and not one sign of wear on the leather seat bolsters which are a nightmare to keep unmarred on a vette. My baby is 25 years old and is in pristine condition with only 42,000 miles (and it has never been rained on )!! lol Here are a couple of links that are informational on leather care that everyone should know and not depend on hearsay .... http://www.pinnaclewax.com/leatcon.html http://www.pinnaclewax.com/pin410.html... I have never figured out why some people on BHW are so hostile towards others and they never have any real facts to backup their caustic remarks. If you have read my posts .... I think you know that I will kill you with facts and more than you ever wanted to know about the subject under discussion .. EVERYONE HAVE A HAPPY EASTER AND ASK GOD TO BLESS THE USA!!
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Folks on-line