My job description/compensation is changing a bit, being classified more as sales, and part of it is a car allowance option.  Through "Motus" specifically.

I just want to know how people with experience feel about them - on paper it's not looking like a bad deal.   

But we, like many folks, drive older paid for vehicles.  The program requires a vehicle be kept within 5 years of new - so you have to get into a cycle of trading...

So am I thinking of this right, math for easy numbers and gained from Kelly blue book...

Buy new vehicle @ $30,000 with 0% loan 

Meeting the minimum allowance requirements covers $4000 of $6000 in payments each year.

After 4 years KBB says $13000 trade in value (yes I could sell the vehicle privately for more and likely will)

Owed after 4 years at 0% is just $6000 so there's equity there that can be used as money down on the next vehicle - meaning the program pays for an even larger % of the payments each cycle, I'm assuming the flat rate of the program stays consistent.

I look at vehicles as tools and not investments.  Through the program to stay tax-free we can't claim depreciation on the vehicle on our taxes.

No, I don't have to go buy a brand new vehicle, but I do have to stay within 5 model years of being new - so if I buy 2-3 years old I would need to trade again in 2-3 years.  So partially I'm looking at interest on a new vehicle (0%) vs a couple years old and having less equity in a vehicle when I go to trade sooner.

I am being given the option to stay with straight mileage, but we've also discussed upgrading the 19 year old vehicle I currently drive.

like I said, on paper it's looking like a reasonable deal.  I need to investigate insurance costs on new vs what we have.  But since we always said we'd never buy new... it's also giving me anxiety.

I get straight mileage reimbursement with my job. I drive a very gas efficient car (2017 Toyota Corolla), and with the .535 per mile reimbursement, I'm pocketing money. We use Motus to track our mileage every day. Depending on your gas mileage now, this could work out really well. Trading in every few years seems like a real hassle to me.

I do agree with trading in every few years being a hassle - which is why I'm honestly considering new or 1 year old depending on the numbers.  I drive just over the minimum 5,000 miles/yr to be in the program.  That way I'd have it for a full 4-5 years vs going 2-3 years old like I would if I was buying a vehicle unaided.

Ugh.

If my personal vehicle wasn't 19 years old and probably nearing the end of reliability I wouldn't even think about it.  Plus we want kids soon and car seats don't fit in supercab Rangers very well.

this stuff stresses me out.

When I started my job, I was driving an 04 RAM 1500. I moved to Florida and realized how often I was going to be on the road, and traded it in for the car I have now. Its a perfect future family car (we are thinking kids, too) and even though I'm making a payment, I'm still making money with my gas reimbursement. For reference, I bought it when it had 8 test-drive miles on it, and now it has over 89,000. I drive THAT much. Might be worth it to buy the newer car and then still take the gas reimbursement.

Take into account how many miles you will be driving a year with your job PLUS what you will be driving personally. Do not finance the vehicle out for very long. Likely you will be running out of warranty in no time, and that is when the value of the car really starts to drop (that and when you reach 100,000 miles). I would suggest not going fancy and make sure you get a very fuel-efficient vehicle. I do work at a dealership and have seen quite a few pocket the money that their employer gives them for their car allowance as income. That money needs to go directly toward the car on top of your payment. If you finance the car out for a more extended period, mile the car out in a short period, and try to trade, you will be upside down. Have to think of this car as a business, and you will want the car to be paid off or pretty close once you reach your mileage and need to get a new car. I hope all of that makes sense. 

**Most of the time the when you take the 0% option, you will be giving up more rebates than you would be paying in interest. Unless you are buying a $50,000 vehicle taking the rebates and paying a low interest will save you more money, and you will owe less on the car to begin with.